Quad Racer 34

iTrader: (4)

Tlr242001 is the front center dog bone for the nitro car.

TLR242002 is the front center dog bone for the E car, which is the same length bone as the nitro rear.

1buzz1

iTrader: (1)

Thanks, just confused me because i found 242001 in the instruction portion of E 3.0 manual, but then in the exploded has correct part#

Rxfisher

iTrader: (18)

Love the buggy, but I've been having some issues with the shocks,
The screw holding the nylon piston comes loose, I might have it figured out.
I use nitro spray cleaner to clean threads on piston shaft and red lock tight on screw now, but only run a few times. A lock wash would be great if I could find one small enough. The Scte-ten from losi has treaded lock nut on the shock shafts, I wonder way they went with just a screw for the buggy shock.
Any other ideas that have worked for you guys...

Brian Miskolczi

iTrader: (162)

Make sure you clean the screw and shock shaft with a parts degrease r, Denatured alcohol etc., apply locktite and make sure to get the screw nice and snug, don't be afraid to torque down on it to make sure it is nice and tight.

pimpedaccord

iTrader: (25)

Also make sure you let the loctite dry in the air. It will never dry when drenched in oil!

MasiisaM

iTrader: (1)

Thanks Casper for the reply...I will leave it if its not a concern.

For whatever reason though im having a huge issue with the front end attaching to the chassis (page 21) It will not slide down in the back to have it flush to screw in. It's almost like part#LOSA1754 is to small. I would not think i have to file it..i mean its a solid 1-2 mil i would have to take off.

Then where does part # TRL241003 go? its the last in the sequence to bolt up, but the instructions doesn't show where it goes.

Anyone on what i'm doing wrong?

GMS_Racing

iTrader: (65)

I had to purswade mine pretty good to get it to fit when I built my kit 2 weeks ago. It'll go trust me

slakr

iTrader: (36)

I put mine together a few weeks ago and I don't have the car in front of me to look at right now... but I believe that part goes under the front of the top plate and is also secured with the two screws that go through the front of said top plate.

vic0280

iTrader: (24)

just finished building mine and getting ready to wire it up.

front end is not free. I know it is the camber links. I thought I read on here to squeeze with a pair of pliers and it frees up.

sounds stupid, but I squeezed them and not freeing up. can someone post a pic of how they do this or do I need to just do with a lot more pressure?

Casper

iTrader: (34)

Yeah it takes a hard sqeeze to deform plastic a little around the ball a little.

rcgod

iTrader: (33)

What is the small plastic piece that screws into the chassis right behind the front diff case? Don't know what it's for.

Casper

iTrader: (34)

It is not easy but it will go. It is meant to be tight so when you take hard hits you take it through the chassis and don't break the front bulkhead instead. Once you do it once or twice it gets easier.

You talking about the little piece? It goes between the front diff case and the front of the triangle upper deck.

hacker07

iTrader: (13)

That is basically a hole cover. It covers the holes used for the brass weight that is available for the car.

rcgod

iTrader: (33)

Thanks!

drepus

Here's what has worked well for me over the years racing losi/tlr 1/8's.

1 Thread the screw (with washers installed) through the piston. Brake clean the screw/piston well and wipe off the screw threads with a clean towel.

2 Brake clean out the hole in the shock shaft. This hole is very deep (1/2" at least) and will hold quite a bit of brake clean wayyy down inside. This must be removed or it may negate the threadlock!!! You can leave the shaft for awhile till the brake clean evaporates (it takes awhile) or do as i do. Roll up a torn corner of paper towel into a long point and use it to wick out the brake clean. You will know when you get it!

3 Set both aside for a few minutes to make sure they are totally dry.

4 I use very well shaken "blue" threadlock and coat the screw (still installed in the piston) and run some down the hole in the shaft. I use a small allen key or a pin to make sure the inside of the hole is well coated.

5 Install tightly and wipe off the excess.

6 Wait 10 minutes or so before you fill the shocks with oil just incase it interferes with the curing of the threadlock.

I have not lost a piston since the original 8ight came out using this method. If you want to change pistons and the screw doesnt want to budge for you, heat the screw head with a solderring iron for 15 seconds and try again. The heat breaks the threadlock down just enough to remove it without damaging the pistons. I usually have other shock shafts all set up with other pistons for when i want to try something different instead of changing pistons on the same shafts.

Dave Henry