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Old 02-02-2014, 07:32 PM   #1321
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That will work. Very good
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Old 02-02-2014, 10:15 PM   #1322
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I run a large out door track has anyone found mud guards that work on the 3.0
The DE ones from the 2.0 work
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Old 02-03-2014, 12:17 AM   #1323
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I run a large out door track has anyone found mud guards that work on the 3.0
I use mudguards and skid plates from DE Racing. And I use the same for the 8ight 2.0 and 3.0. They are interchangable.
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Old 02-03-2014, 06:15 AM   #1324
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TIP OF THE DAY ...

As an FYI, I use these, but I also used these as a template to make more of them out of a small black Rubbermaid garbage can (with the durable/flexible rubber/plastic material). The black ones look better, and are esentially unbreakable!
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Old 02-03-2014, 03:49 PM   #1325
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Default Great idea

Very neat idea, I'll make a template before I mount
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Old 02-03-2014, 05:06 PM   #1326
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Anyone know of a good rear skid plate, also i seen a video that showed an 8ight with a 3M like clear protective sticker on the bottom of his chassis to reduce scratching. You think he just made it himself or have you seen anywhere you can buy them pre cut? I'ved looked around online but couldn't find much. TIA
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Old 02-04-2014, 12:08 AM   #1327
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Anyone know of a good rear skid plate, also i seen a video that showed an 8ight with a 3M like clear protective sticker on the bottom of his chassis to reduce scratching. You think he just made it himself or have you seen anywhere you can buy them pre cut? I'ved looked around online but couldn't find much. TIA
DE Racing makes front and rear skid plates for the 2.0 (3.0).

I have previously used skid plates, but I do not do that anymore. If you are into finetuning and adjusting your car, skid plates have a negative impact on the ride height adjustment, as the car will have a tendency to more often bottom out and bounce back (especially on jumps), than if skid plates are not used.

I don't think the very thin sticker like skid plates will protect the chassis plate much on a real dirt track. Maybe on an astro turf/carpet track.

Guess no serious racer uses skid plates. The chassis plate wears more quickly, but if you can afford buying a new one every second season or so, I would not use skid plates.
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Old 02-04-2014, 12:19 AM   #1328
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So if I'm at like 3450 ready to race I probably need to fatten her up a little?
I do not think you need to add more weight, if you are in the 3400g region.

Im not a pro racer, but total weight is more a tuning option. Ligther for some tracks, and heavier for other tracks. Guess for smaller technical indoor smooth tracks a lighter car setup is prefered, and on a large bumby outdoor track a little more weight adds stability.

In the example I provided on the weight I included the weight of 2x2s 6000mah lipos.

I often also use 2x2s 4200mah shorty sticks, that shaves approx. 250g off the total weight, and the total weight is then more or less the same as yours.

I like the lighter setup better, but use the heavier setup in finals, as I'm not totally sure that I can get 10 min. out of my shorties.
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Old 02-04-2014, 02:48 AM   #1329
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Hey lads!

Getting a TLR 8ight-E 3.0 soon and this will be my first Offroad kit! yay me!

Apart from the electrics what will I need to get this up and going?

I know I know i could just google or go through all the pages but i know you boys are pretty cool and wont mind another Noob question like this! haha

So thanks in advance!
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Old 02-04-2014, 03:08 AM   #1330
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Hey lads!

Getting a TLR 8ight-E 3.0 soon and this will be my first Offroad kit! yay me!

Apart from the electrics what will I need to get this up and going?

I know I know i could just google or go through all the pages but i know you boys are pretty cool and wont mind another Noob question like this! haha

So thanks in advance!
I started with the car, a lipo and a small charger and ended up with more or less double of everything. 4-7 packs of lipos. 2 chargers. Lots of tools, oils (diff., shocks etc.), multiple sets of tires.

Some have a complete spare car, some just buy the parts that brakes the most, which roughly is all the parts in the front clip from the diff and out, rear arms and hub carriers.

A set of bearings, screws and washers are also good to have.

Camber and ride height gauges. Good to have even if not a pro driver. Help to set up the car (basic) and help to check the car "alignment" after heavy crash and use.

Phew The car itself is one thing, to keep it running through practice and races is another

Your local TLR hobbyshop is gonna love you

Last edited by Salkin; 02-04-2014 at 07:58 AM.
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Old 02-04-2014, 04:11 AM   #1331
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Originally Posted by Texco View Post
Hey lads!

Getting a TLR 8ight-E 3.0 soon and this will be my first Offroad kit! yay me!

Apart from the electrics what will I need to get this up and going?

I know I know i could just google or go through all the pages but i know you boys are pretty cool and wont mind another Noob question like this! haha

So thanks in advance!
I'll sell you my race-ready spare for $600 shipped. It is a multi race winner, and has the best of everything. Over $1,100 invested! It is set up to KILL--we'll help you with everything. PM me on this. See post:

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Last edited by BSCFlash; 02-04-2014 at 05:48 AM.
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Old 02-04-2014, 07:20 AM   #1332
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I'll sell you my race-ready spare for $600 shipped. It is a multi race winner, and has the best of everything. Over $1,100 invested! It is set up to KILL--we'll help you with everything. PM me on this. See post:

TLR 8ight e 3.0 - multi race winner!
Car already sold!
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Old 02-04-2014, 10:48 AM   #1333
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Hey all..

Did anyone else need to shim the front diff mesh? I just started my 3.0 e build last night and the mesh seemed pretty loose. I used to having it tighter, but the last car i built was over 5 years ago.
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Old 02-04-2014, 12:08 PM   #1334
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Hey all..

Did anyone else need to shim the front diff mesh? I just started my 3.0 e build last night and the mesh seemed pretty loose. I used to having it tighter, but the last car i built was over 5 years ago.
We typcially don't feel the need to shim the front diff but you can if you want. Don't make it too tight but it can be done. The rear ring and pinion gear get a lot more load and more attention is paid to that mesh in general. The buggy tends not to have many problems with this compared to a truggy
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Old 02-04-2014, 07:48 PM   #1335
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Can anyone tell me the difference between part #tlr242001 and 242002, both numbers are listed in the manual but tlr242001 seems to be to short thanks
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