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Old 01-26-2014, 07:59 PM   #1291
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Originally Posted by bluegroovelosi View Post
From what I was told, decreasing the front droop (raising the arms) slows down the weight transfer under acceleration.

According to the Hudy setup book:

Less front droop decreases front chassis upward travel on throttle; less rearward weight transfer; less responsive but more stable. Decreasing the rear ride height increases overall rear grip.

Combining the three (2mm less front droop plus 2mm decreased rear ride height plus -3.5 on the rear camber) made my car nice and tight. The rear end wasn't dancing around anymore and it went straight where I pointed it without a lot of rear end skitter.

Lessons learned...

Robert Conner
Omaha, Nebraska
I did take 1 mm out of my front droop to help my situation. I know that will help reduce weight transfer to the rear also inherently give on power steering. Where are your roll centers set at? I'm eager to try the lower rear ride height. Also what sway bars are you using? Did you take droop back out of the rear after lowering it?
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Old 01-27-2014, 06:02 AM   #1292
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Originally Posted by old carpet rcr View Post
I did take 1 mm out of my front droop to help my situation. I know that will help reduce weight transfer to the rear also inherently give on power steering. Where are your roll centers set at? I'm eager to try the lower rear ride height. Also what sway bars are you using? Did you take droop back out of the rear after lowering it?
I'm using the standard LRC plates and stock camber settings. Rear droop is completely open - I could probably remove the droop screws for an extra mm or two, but then risk having the rear dogbones pop out.

2.7 on the front, 2.3 rear rollbar on the rear.

I tried the 'slam it to the ground' ride height that everyone else was using (about 24mm front and back) but it would traction roll on high speed corners. With much reluctance, I set it ALL the way back up to 29mm, which I thought made it look WAY off the ground, but the extra suspension travel seems to work better for me. I was very surprised. The front springs are nearly all the way to the bottom threads on the front shock, and the rear springs only have 4 or 5 threads left. Even with the lighter SPC short packs, I only have to back off the threads about 2 full turns.

I've taken to printing out the Losi setup sheets at home with the installed setup BEFORE I leave to go racing, and then keeping them each night after I've made any changes. I keep 'em all in a file so I can see how I either screwed it up or gained some seconds or handling improvements.

Robert Conner
Omaha, Nebraska
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Old 01-27-2014, 08:30 AM   #1293
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Originally Posted by bluegroovelosi View Post
I'm using the standard LRC plates and stock camber settings. Rear droop is completely open - I could probably remove the droop screws for an extra mm or two, but then risk having the rear dogbones pop out.

2.7 on the front, 2.3 rear rollbar on the rear.

I tried the 'slam it to the ground' ride height that everyone else was using (about 24mm front and back) but it would traction roll on high speed corners. With much reluctance, I set it ALL the way back up to 29mm, which I thought made it look WAY off the ground, but the extra suspension travel seems to work better for me. I was very surprised. The front springs are nearly all the way to the bottom threads on the front shock, and the rear springs only have 4 or 5 threads left. Even with the lighter SPC short packs, I only have to back off the threads about 2 full turns.

I've taken to printing out the Losi setup sheets at home with the installed setup BEFORE I leave to go racing, and then keeping them each night after I've made any changes. I keep 'em all in a file so I can see how I either screwed it up or gained some seconds or handling improvements.

Robert Conner
Omaha, Nebraska
You might of been traction rolling with that low of a ride height if you didn't take out the droop. I'm sure you know that though, just thinking out loud. 24mm that's low! Are you on a super smooth track with little to small jumps? With the 2.7 bar in the front, has it really reduced your steering? I keep the setups and several tuning guides in my phone, but also have printed out copies when I can't get my phone back from my daughter. I noticed the stock setup and Drakes are both from very smooth tracks. Our indoor clay isn't that smooth, small high frequency bumps. With the buggy being lighter I'm using greens and lighter oil all around to soak up the bumps without my wheels bouncing off the track. I'll have to look but at 28mm my collars aren't that far down.
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Old 01-27-2014, 10:36 AM   #1294
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Questions?? TLR 8ight-E 3.0 Chassis

I don't know if this is a "thing" for the 8ight platform. But the chassis cutout for the diff casings are no where near as close a fit when compared to my SCTE v1 & v2. Is this to be expected? I've checked both kit and retail diff casings just to be sure they are the same and in fact are.

Many thanks!
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Old 01-27-2014, 12:04 PM   #1295
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So my E is built, and I have my electronics all installed. The only item left to get are the batteries. I can 99.9% guarantee that I will be running strictly outdoors. Gear is a VTX-8 and Redline Gen2 1900. Tracks range in size from 160x90 to 200x100 and everything in between.

So what I am looking for is battery recomendations and gearing recomendations using the 43T spur. TIA!

Drepus, LOL. Mel says only you brother..
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Old 01-28-2014, 02:33 AM   #1296
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Originally Posted by Gary Fliegel View Post
So my E is built, and I have my electronics all installed. The only item left to get are the batteries. I can 99.9% guarantee that I will be running strictly outdoors. Gear is a VTX-8 and Redline Gen2 1900. Tracks range in size from 160x90 to 200x100 and everything in between.

So what I am looking for is battery recomendations and gearing recomendations using the 43T spur. TIA!

Drepus, LOL. Mel says only you brother..
You may want to start with a 15t. We are running indoor tracks running a 14t and on a really small technical technical track a 13t. As far as batteries are concerned i am currently running 2-2s back to back, but eventually will be switching over to http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-ROAR-Approved
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Old 01-28-2014, 05:34 AM   #1297
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You may want to start with a 15t. We are running indoor tracks running a 14t and on a really small technical technical track a 13t. As far as batteries are concerned i am currently running 2-2s back to back, but eventually will be switching over to http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-ROAR-Approved
Sorry to Butt in, I had 2 of those batteries running on an Orion 2000kv system. With a med indoor clay track, everything ran hotter and packs swelled. One of them broke a connection between the cells, they were a year old and A main did give me half the money back for it. The other one is working perfectly in my starter box. Just my experience with my situation, thanks for your time.
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Old 01-28-2014, 04:38 PM   #1298
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary Fliegel View Post
So my E is built, and I have my electronics all installed. The only item left to get are the batteries. I can 99.9% guarantee that I will be running strictly outdoors. Gear is a VTX-8 and Redline Gen2 1900. Tracks range in size from 160x90 to 200x100 and everything in between.

So what I am looking for is battery recomendations and gearing recomendations using the 43T spur. TIA!
90 days ago, I had NO experience running the modern version of everything and was using my 20 year old gearing knowledge from way back in the days of the Losi XX-4.

I immediately traded out the 43 spur for a 45, thinking I'd need more torque as it fits my punchy, precise kinda driving style. I ran the 45 with a 15 and it pulled wheelies all over the place with an Orion 1900 motor.

In an attempt to tone things down, I switched back to the stock 43 and am using the same 15 spur. The local track hotshot advised me that a 15 or 16 pinion with the stock 43 would keep my new VF8 2100 motor in the lower rpm 'smooth sweetspot' instead of always at the twitchy top end of the power band. The lower gear definitely took away the snap/punch quality, but also tamed everything down so that it's more drivable.

I'm starting to learn more about the advice to 'gear for top speed on the straight only' and use the motors variable settings to correct or change all the other characteristics you might want. I use the Viper V Link and my laptop to set all the variables I understand...and there are a bunch I haven't been brave enough to play with yet.

Gear selection now seems like the easiest decision. LOL!

I've attached one of my VTX-8 setup sheets. Let me know if you want any others. I have half a dozen stored and ready to load into the VTX-8, mostly having changes with the Smart Brake and forward power settings. I haven't cracked into the motor advanced timing settings...and probably won't. I'd like my VF8 2100 to last awhile.

Robert Conner
Omaha, Nebraska
Attached Files
File Type: pdf VTX8 January 2014.pdf (237.3 KB, 74 views)
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Old 01-29-2014, 03:58 AM   #1299
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Does anyone know if the new TLR244021 is the same part as the old alum servo arm just with a new part #? Thanks
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Old 01-29-2014, 04:11 AM   #1300
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It has the notch to run short Ackerman bar. Other than that is same as old I believe.
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Old 01-29-2014, 09:38 AM   #1301
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anyone know the approximate weight of this car without any electronics but with a set of tires and the body on?
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Old 01-31-2014, 02:42 AM   #1302
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Mine is fully race ready approx. 3750g (grams).

Subtract:

ESC (HW 150a) 105g
Motor (HW 2200kv) 371g
Wires 50g
Servo (Futaba BLS351) 63g
Lipo (2x2s 6000mah) 600g
Total electronics 1189g

Car, body, tires are then approx. 2561g.

The above totals are +/- 100g.

Last edited by Salkin; 01-31-2014 at 03:05 AM.
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Old 01-31-2014, 11:42 AM   #1303
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Originally Posted by Salkin View Post
Mine is fully race ready approx. 3750g (grams).

Subtract:

ESC (HW 150a) 105g
Motor (HW 2200kv) 371g
Wires 50g
Servo (Futaba BLS351) 63g
Lipo (2x2s 6000mah) 600g
Total electronics 1189g

Car, body, tires are then approx. 2561g.

The above totals are +/- 100g.
thank you so much!!
ive been searching everywhere for this info...appreciate it!
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Old 01-31-2014, 01:14 PM   #1304
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Hey guys,

Got a couple of questions.

1. What pinion should I start with using a 2100kv 4s setup? I'll be running my new 3.0 on fairly good sized outdoor tracks this summer.

2. After building the 3.0, I felt my gear meshes on the front and rear diffs and they feel sort of loose. Like, there's quite a bit of play in them. I built them according to the manual. On the rear diff it says to use 2 .25mm shims on the left side and 1 .25mm as well as 1 .10mm shim on the right side. But on the picture it shows it just using one shim on both sides. I also found it hard to tell a difference in the shims that came with the kit. So I put two shims on the left side and one on the right. The front and rear gear meshes feel the same. I come from 10th scale so I'm not sure how tight or loose the meshes should feel. Is it normal for them to feel a little loose? My guess was this is how they were supposed to feel and I had build them correctly. But just thought I'd ask to make sure.

Thanks!
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Old 01-31-2014, 09:00 PM   #1305
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Hey guys,

Got a couple of questions.

1. What pinion should I start with using a 2100kv 4s setup? I'll be running my new 3.0 on fairly good sized outdoor tracks this summer.

2. After building the 3.0, I felt my gear meshes on the front and rear diffs and they feel sort of loose. Like, there's quite a bit of play in them. I built them according to the manual. On the rear diff it says to use 2 .25mm shims on the left side and 1 .25mm as well as 1 .10mm shim on the right side. But on the picture it shows it just using one shim on both sides. I also found it hard to tell a difference in the shims that came with the kit. So I put two shims on the left side and one on the right. The front and rear gear meshes feel the same. I come from 10th scale so I'm not sure how tight or loose the meshes should feel. Is it normal for them to feel a little loose? My guess was this is how they were supposed to feel and I had build them correctly. But just thought I'd ask to make sure.

Thanks!

I'd throw a 15 tooth on there and go from there for power vs temps.


Second, you don't want binding in your diffs, but make sure they are not loose. A way to check the shims that came with the kit (if you can't feel the difference) is use your calipers to check them. They will read out the different sizes.

In my mind the book is a ballpark figure on the shimming, once you start finding the limits (binding vs too loose) its just a matter of time before its perfect!
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