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Old 01-18-2014, 09:42 AM   #1261
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Originally Posted by drepus View Post
There is actually a little material removed to provide more clearance around the larger 1.0 style upper tie rods where they attach to the shock tower. A friend pointed this out and said he used a 2.0 gearbox after a tiny bit of dremel work.
I looked last night, there is a little notch cut out of the case for the older part no. Didn't make a difference as my inner camber links weren't touching. Thanks for enlightening me, it was driving me crazy not knowing why the two different part numbers. My OCD.
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Old 01-18-2014, 10:29 AM   #1262
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Default shorty pack placement

building my car finally this weekend.

for the guys/casper/ryan running shortys.

with liking the placement 1 pad back of full forward,

does that mean 1 pad in frt - shorty- 7 pads in rr?

just seems like a lot all fwd? I get that the sweet spot for a lot, but looking for clarity on best starting point.
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Old 01-18-2014, 10:39 AM   #1263
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Originally Posted by Blitzrockey View Post
Anyone know if these wheel nuts are knurled on the back side to help them from not falling off?
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Wheel-Nuts-Red
Yes. They are the same as the 3.0 factory ones but red. At least my blue ones are.
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Old 01-18-2014, 07:18 PM   #1264
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What kind of motor and speed control and battery for IERC raceway?
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Old 01-19-2014, 02:24 PM   #1265
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Originally Posted by GrimReminder View Post
This might have been asked already, not sure. Will someone here please give me a no bs performance assement between the nitro 3.0 with the e conversion and the 3.0 e buggy. My friend has the nitro converted to ep with the e buggy towers mounted on it and he will sell to me for 300.00 bucks with only two races on it. Is there really a big difference between the two buggies? Thanks guys.

Granted...for the money im gonna buy it anyway, I would just like to hear some of your opinions from those of you that have experience from both.
I ran the converted all summer along with a few other guys before the E came out. Everybody agrees that the true E 3.0 has much more steering and more nimble. It's better in every way, but the converted is still a great car. You can always get the E chassis and parts.
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Old 01-19-2014, 04:27 PM   #1266
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For all you guys running the light set ups (T8i and shorty's) are you going to a lighter spring or sticking with stock?
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Old 01-19-2014, 07:32 PM   #1267
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Originally Posted by GMS_Racing View Post
For all you guys running the light set ups (T8i and shorty's) are you going to a lighter spring or sticking with stock?
I've been using the shortys for a couple of weeks. I was running them all the way back with a double foam block in front to keep them from moving around.

Had a discussion with several other drivers about how the buggy pulls a wheelie out of most every corner now, which didn't bother me, but apparently was way more visible from ground level. LOTS of weight transfer now with the motor and the battery behind the virtual center/center diff line which, again, was fine with me but seems to be of some concern to others.

The shorty pack won't slide forward very far, or very easily, because of the velcro straps - you can only move it about 3/8" forward before the + & - power output cables are under the strap. So it's either put the battery dead center in the big battery tray or all the way back.

My Viper ESC was giving me all sorts of trouble last night, so I never really got any good laps in. As always, it'll be a state of continuous trial and error. I'm still using the stock springs, just raised a bit on the shock collar to set the ride height at 29mm up front and 27 in the back.

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Old 01-20-2014, 12:40 AM   #1268
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Originally Posted by bluegroovelosi View Post
I've been using the shortys for a couple of weeks. I was running them all the way back with a double foam block in front to keep them from moving around.

Had a discussion with several other drivers about how the buggy pulls a wheelie out of most every corner now, which didn't bother me, but apparently was way more visible from ground level. LOTS of weight transfer now with the motor and the battery behind the virtual center/center diff line which, again, was fine with me but seems to be of some concern to others.

The shorty pack won't slide forward very far, or very easily, because of the velcro straps - you can only move it about 3/8" forward before the + & - power output cables are under the strap. So it's either put the battery dead center in the big battery tray or all the way back.


My Viper ESC was giving me all sorts of trouble last night, so I never really got any good laps in. As always, it'll be a state of continuous trial and error. I'm still using the stock springs, just raised a bit on the shock collar to set the ride height at 29mm up front and 27 in the back.

Robert Conner
Omaha, Nebraska

ride height is generally always lower in the front (27mm front and 29mm rear)
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Old 01-20-2014, 06:30 AM   #1269
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Originally Posted by GMS_Racing View Post
For all you guys running the light set ups (T8i and shorty's) are you going to a lighter spring or sticking with stock?
I'm running the T8i setup at 3400g exactly with a light 4s. Plan on switching to SMC 4s shorties to drop another 40g. But right now, I did switch to silver all around. My local track generally has small sharp bumps (indoor high bite clay), I found with stock setup the wheels were bouncing off the track and losing grip naturally. Tried Drakes suspension setup with greens all around, obviously worse. Tried 35f and 32.5r, no change to wheels bouncing off track. Too high of spring frequency, so with silvers and no change to fluid wt. problem fixed. Over shooting jump will chassis slap naturally but hitting the jumps right is name of the game anyway.
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Old 01-20-2014, 08:04 AM   #1270
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Originally Posted by akshayp14 View Post
ride height is generally always lower in the front (27mm front and 29mm rear)
I can say that I typically run a chassis flat to the front height higher.
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Old 01-20-2014, 04:51 PM   #1271
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I can say that I typically run a chassis flat to the front height higher.
Don't you find lose of on power steering with a higher front ride height? I know it'll make a calmer buggy especially in rough sections.
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Old 01-21-2014, 07:21 PM   #1272
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I'm having a little bit of an issue with consistency while running the car. I have reamed all arms slightly and have squeezed the rod ends in order to free them up.

At the beginning of a run, my car is extremely plush and smooth. By the end of the run, it seems like my car is slightly bound up and not as smooth. Once I pinch the rod ends again and clean dust/debris off, the car is smooth again. My car is still relatively new with four complete race days on it, but I assumed that it would be properly broken in by now.

Does anyone have any suggestions on what to do to fix my problem, or do I just need to continue to run the car until it develops more slop?

Thanks,
Hunter
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Old 01-22-2014, 04:13 AM   #1273
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Originally Posted by hacker07 View Post
I can say that I typically run a chassis flat to the front height higher.
oh ok, good to know Ryan!
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Old 01-22-2014, 07:00 AM   #1274
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I love this buggy so much I also order a Nitro Kit
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Old 01-22-2014, 01:04 PM   #1275
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slashracer111 View Post
I'm having a little bit of an issue with consistency while running the car. I have reamed all arms slightly and have squeezed the rod ends in order to free them up.

At the beginning of a run, my car is extremely plush and smooth. By the end of the run, it seems like my car is slightly bound up and not as smooth. Once I pinch the rod ends again and clean dust/debris off, the car is smooth again. My car is still relatively new with four complete race days on it, but I assumed that it would be properly broken in by now.

Does anyone have any suggestions on what to do to fix my problem, or do I just need to continue to run the car until it develops more slop?

Thanks,
Hunter
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