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Old 01-09-2014, 02:10 PM   #1216
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Thanks!

So should I start with the same weight fluids, just buy the TLR fluid in the bottles?

I hope the kit diff fluids are ok to use? I hate breaking the cars down to change diff fluids...shocks are easy

Also...the TLR site does not list optional parts for the E version. Should I just look at the nitro version parts list for hop ups?

Looking at the online setup sheets...where are these 8 hole pistons (1.3 and "splits") from the Drake setup and the "up tapered" pistons from the Phend setup?

Going to use 5/7/3 diff fluids, 2.3 sway bars, kit springs and recommended shock fluid weights. And the basic Drake/Phend starting camber/shock locations etc.

Generally a hard packed outdoor rough track with some loose sand on top and in corners.
The diff fluids are fine. Yes for shock parts the 8ight 3.0 nitro parts are all interchangable. Just about anything not on the chassis. Front and rear clips are the same.
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Old 01-09-2014, 10:00 PM   #1217
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Originally Posted by JoeW View Post
I was hoping to get some TLR assistance real quick.

I just built my 3e last night. I put the kit springs and shock fluids in it. The stock front fluid is 37.5 and rear is 35 as you guys know. With no electrics or anything the rears feel a little stiff but probably about right. The fronts are a problem...they seem way too stiff. If you drop the front from 3-4 inches it just stops like there are no shocks....no soaking at all. When you press the fronts down it takes a decent effort and they don't spring back like they should.

Is there any instance of faulty shock fluid or will this break in?

Also, what servo horn are you guys using? I used the 22 alum TLR horn on my SCTE but it looks too short for the 8.
I had this problem for weeks and thought it was just part of the break in process. Several guys at the track commented on how STIFF the front end was...how it wouldn't drop as fast as the rear end...not even close!

the first thing to check is whether it's the shocks at all. Take the shocks and sway bar off and see how loose everything is. Do the pivots have the correct number pivot in the correct position? Everything should slide up and down nice and easy...with virtually no resistance.

If the front end is tight (mine was), then crimping the plastic ends of the turnbuckles with pliers should mold the plastic to the ball studs. My front end got WAY looser after a simple squeeze of both turnbuckle ends.

Then I added the sway bar back into the mix. Tight. Again. The plastic '8' shaped connector got a squeeze with the pliers...nice and loose again.

THEN I put the shock back into their correct positions. Suh-mooooooth, baby!

Lesson learned: strip it down to the absolute basic moving parts, check for tightness or restrictions. Make sure the pivot points are the same number, in the correct position. Then add each moving part while checking for tightness until everything is back together and silky.

Robert Conner
Omaha, Nebraska
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Old 01-09-2014, 10:23 PM   #1218
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Originally Posted by bluegroovelosi View Post
I had this problem for weeks and thought it was just part of the break in process. Several guys at the track commented on how STIFF the front end was...how it wouldn't drop as fast as the rear end...not even close!

the first thing to check is whether it's the shocks at all. Take the shocks and sway bar off and see how loose everything is. Do the pivots have the correct number pivot in the correct position? Everything should slide up and down nice and easy...with virtually no resistance.

If the front end is tight (mine was), then crimping the plastic ends of the turnbuckles with pliers should mold the plastic to the ball studs. My front end got WAY looser after a simple squeeze of both turnbuckle ends.

Then I added the sway bar back into the mix. Tight. Again. The plastic '8' shaped connector got a squeeze with the pliers...nice and loose again.

THEN I put the shock back into their correct positions. Suh-mooooooth, baby!

Lesson learned: strip it down to the absolute basic moving parts, check for tightness or restrictions. Make sure the pivot points are the same number, in the correct position. Then add each moving part while checking for tightness until everything is back together and silky.

Robert Conner
Omaha, Nebraska
Excellent description Robert!
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drepus???? it's "superd" backwards since it was taken!
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Old 01-09-2014, 11:16 PM   #1219
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lol i remember the release day of this car and there had to be 2-3 pages of people freaking out about the tightness. i was one of em lol.... love this car!
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Old 01-10-2014, 05:22 AM   #1220
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lol i remember the release day of this car and there had to be 2-3 pages of people freaking out about the tightness. i was one of em lol.... love this car!
lol
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Old 01-10-2014, 08:57 AM   #1221
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Originally Posted by bluegroovelosi View Post
I had this problem for weeks and thought it was just part of the break in process. Several guys at the track commented on how STIFF the front end was...how it wouldn't drop as fast as the rear end...not even close!

the first thing to check is whether it's the shocks at all. Take the shocks and sway bar off and see how loose everything is. Do the pivots have the correct number pivot in the correct position? Everything should slide up and down nice and easy...with virtually no resistance.

If the front end is tight (mine was), then crimping the plastic ends of the turnbuckles with pliers should mold the plastic to the ball studs. My front end got WAY looser after a simple squeeze of both turnbuckle ends.

Then I added the sway bar back into the mix. Tight. Again. The plastic '8' shaped connector got a squeeze with the pliers...nice and loose again.

THEN I put the shock back into their correct positions. Suh-mooooooth, baby!

Lesson learned: strip it down to the absolute basic moving parts, check for tightness or restrictions. Make sure the pivot points are the same number, in the correct position. Then add each moving part while checking for tightness until everything is back together and silky.

Robert Conner
Omaha, Nebraska
It is critical that you do NOT use the oil that comes with the kit (it simply doesn't have the quality control and tolerances). Use TLR oil and you will see that the front (and rear) is where it is supposed to be. This is a very common problem, and happened to my team. This advice came from Ryan himself (and supported by all the local pros)!
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Old 01-10-2014, 12:44 PM   #1222
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Thanks guys. Once I get the electrics in I will change shock fluids immediately.
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Old 01-11-2014, 12:42 AM   #1223
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Click on my youtube page in my signature for quite a few 3.0 videos!
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Old 01-11-2014, 08:39 PM   #1224
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It is critical that you do NOT use the oil that comes with the kit (it simply doesn't have the quality control and tolerances). Use TLR oil and you will see that the front (and rear) is where it is supposed to be. This is a very common problem, and happened to my team. This advice came from Ryan himself (and supported by all the local pros)!
Does this apply go diff fluids?
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Old 01-11-2014, 08:39 PM   #1225
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Does this apply go diff fluids?
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Old 01-11-2014, 10:11 PM   #1226
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Finally got a chance to race my 3.0 today and get used to it. It took me some time to figure out how it likes to be driven. First impression was it's super stable and easy to drive but not a lot of steering. Then I noticed that if I drove it easy into the corner it was really docile and stable, but if I was aggressive and threw it into the corner it handled more aggressive. Some cars change like that depending on speed, but this is the first one I've felt like the car will turn as hard as I want it to depending on how hard I drive it. What a great car! Does everything well, no complaints, no need to tweak it to make it better. Great job Losi.
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Old 01-12-2014, 05:13 AM   #1227
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Does this apply go diff fluids?
Not nearly as much, but if you have the option, eventually have all TLR oils for consistency in setups. Oils are so cheap, it's one variable we shouldn't overlook!
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Old 01-12-2014, 10:37 AM   #1228
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Originally Posted by bluegroovelosi View Post
I had this problem for weeks and thought it was just part of the break in process. Several guys at the track commented on how STIFF the front end was...how it wouldn't drop as fast as the rear end...not even close!

the first thing to check is whether it's the shocks at all. Take the shocks and sway bar off and see how loose everything is. Do the pivots have the correct number pivot in the correct position? Everything should slide up and down nice and easy...with virtually no resistance.

If the front end is tight (mine was), then crimping the plastic ends of the turnbuckles with pliers should mold the plastic to the ball studs. My front end got WAY looser after a simple squeeze of both turnbuckle ends.

Then I added the sway bar back into the mix. Tight. Again. The plastic '8' shaped connector got a squeeze with the pliers...nice and loose again.

THEN I put the shock back into their correct positions. Suh-mooooooth, baby!

Lesson learned: strip it down to the absolute basic moving parts, check for tightness or restrictions. Make sure the pivot points are the same number, in the correct position. Then add each moving part while checking for tightness until everything is back together and silky.

Robert Conner
Omaha, Nebraska
Thank you very much for posting this. VERY helpful. Sorry if this has been covered but can some one please post a picture or a different link to Adam drakes indoor setup. Everytime I open it, the setup sheet is blank. Tried it on my phone, iPad, and computer and it was still blank. Thanks in advance. Absolutely LOVE this buggy
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Old 01-12-2014, 10:59 AM   #1229
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Originally Posted by Losi8ightfanty View Post
Sorry if this has been covered but can some one please post a picture or a different link to Adam drakes indoor setup. Everytime I open it, the setup sheet is blank. Tried it on my phone, iPad, and computer and it was still blank. Thanks in advance. Absolutely LOVE this buggy
It works for me from the car's page on TLR website.
What pdf reader do you use? Getting the latest version is generally a good idea.
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Old 01-12-2014, 11:05 AM   #1230
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It works for me from the car's page on TLR website.
What pdf reader do you use? Getting the latest version is generally a good idea.
I use the latest version. I tried the link you posted and still the same. Posting a picture of it would probably work.
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