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Old 12-15-2013, 06:45 PM   #1111
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Were you racing inside or outside? Only time we stripped a spur gear was outside. Tracks around here are hard on spur gears for some reason when running outside. Tyler's old 3.0E had original in it when sold with a ton of packs thru it. One trick I do to make sure the motor doesn't move is I drill and tap the mount and run a set screw as a secondary holding point.

The arms have been brought up to the head honchos. Hopefully there is something they can do to fix it for all of us.

Thanks for all the good words too guys!! Mike and I try our best to help everyone. We do test things and not tell everyone right away till we know it's gonna work and then we share. But, never flat lie about setups or some other things!!

I agree with the aforementioned posts. You and Mike are great assets to the team, as well as racers in the Midwest!
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Old 12-15-2013, 06:54 PM   #1112
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I use the reedy 4600mAh in mine and get a 10 minute main out of them with about 1000mAh left.
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Old 12-15-2013, 07:14 PM   #1113
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I've only stripped one out so far, after about 15 races, and that was due to my motor coming of the mount. I do agree about the arms and having to file them out a little, but not everything is perfect. lol. I know that there was a issue with the 2.0 and it stripping out spur gears like crazy, mainly due to the mesh coming undone. Might be something loose and causing you to strip out your gears.
After the first gear, I thought that something may of been lose. Took the center apart and everything was still firm and thread locked.

Quote:
Originally Posted by RandyJones View Post
Were you racing inside or outside? Only time we stripped a spur gear was outside. Tracks around here are hard on spur gears for some reason when running outside. Tyler's old 3.0E had original in it when sold with a ton of packs thru it. One trick I do to make sure the motor doesn't move is I drill and tap the mount and run a set screw as a secondary holding point.

The arms have been brought up to the head honchos. Hopefully there is something they can do to fix it for all of us.
I was racing on a smaller indoor clay track. There was one jump, one of three, where it was necessary to scrub speed by slamming the brakes at the top of the jump, then accelerating down the landing. The hard on/off power was extra hard on equipment all day though.

It's nice to hear that the arms are known about as well.
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Old 12-15-2013, 07:43 PM   #1114
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On my previous 1/8th scales if I landed to nose high and really aggressive on power that'll happen. Haven't had issues with this buggy though

Chassis flex + WOT = Bad Time
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Old 12-15-2013, 07:55 PM   #1115
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Gotta hand it to the durability of the 8ight-e 3.0. Was pissed off in a race this weekend and started driving way stupid. Rang the pole dead center. Was sure the chassis had to be bent. Still dead on straight.
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Old 12-15-2013, 08:09 PM   #1116
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RandyJones View Post
Were you racing inside or outside? Only time we stripped a spur gear was outside. Tracks around here are hard on spur gears for some reason when running outside. Tyler's old 3.0E had original in it when sold with a ton of packs thru it. One trick I do to make sure the motor doesn't move is I drill and tap the mount and run a set screw as a secondary holding point.

The arms have been brought up to the head honchos. Hopefully there is something they can do to fix it for all of us.

Thanks for all the good words too guys!! Mike and I try our best to help everyone. We do test things and not tell everyone right away till we know it's gonna work and then we share. But, never flat lie about setups or some other things!!
Like Randy I too appreciate all the kind words. As far as the plastic spur gear goes we haven't had any problems with it to this point after running outdoors two times and multiple indoor races. One thing that I do is find the tightest point in the rotation of the spur and pinion gears and leave zero backlash between the two gears at that point and then go race it. Collin thinks that this new car is the cats meow...
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Old 12-16-2013, 11:39 AM   #1117
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anyone running the viper esc in their 8? if so, how do u like it, pic of it installed? I know its slightly bigger, just wanted to see installed and how do you like performance?

debating between the tekin and viper
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Old 12-16-2013, 12:16 PM   #1118
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I raced my 8ight for the first time yesterday. I was fairly impressed at how the car wasn't tire dependent and how straight up fast it was!

There is one thing that nobody has told me...

Those plastic spur gears absolutely SUCK! I stripped one in the second qualifier yesterday. I figured it was just improper mesh. Replaced it, then reset mesh. 6 minutes into the main chasing the leaders around and it stripped again. All of the teeth perfectly sheared off.

You'd honestly think after all of these years Losi has had an electric car (this one also having a 700$ price tag) that they could design a plastic spur gear. You'd also think as well that Losi would make arms that didn't require reaming with the holes actually lined up out of the packaging!

But other than that, the car is pretty good.
Losi has had good luck with that plastic spur. It is the same from the 2.0 so it has heritage. With the chassis being sealed off on the 3.0E debris should not be an issue. Make sure you thread lock the motor mounth screw.

I have not heard of many having issues with the arms needing reaming. The camber links are quite tight and you may need to squeeze those a little to free them up but that is usally the big complaint about the car.
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Old 12-16-2013, 01:01 PM   #1119
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ok just a few points about the 3.0e

my a-arms seemed fine, i did however have to file the chassis down a bit as the inner front hinge pin brace wouldn't fit, small fix.

I've driven the car for about an hour now and it seems pretty loosened up to me, i didn't need to use a pliers on any of the ball-joints.

now in terms of performance its just a night and day difference compared to the previous nitro converted chassis. i couldn't be happier with this car, from the turning to the jumping it is most definitely a big improvement. I really wasn't expecting much of a difference but wow, I'm blown away.

i hope TLR keep up the good work and release an electric variant of the 3.0 Truggy.
in fact can anyone confirm if TLR will or will not be releasing an electric specific 3.0 truggy?
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Old 12-16-2013, 02:51 PM   #1120
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ok just a few points about the 3.0e

my a-arms seemed fine, i did however have to file the chassis down a bit as the inner front hinge pin brace wouldn't fit, small fix.

I've driven the car for about an hour now and it seems pretty loosened up to me, i didn't need to use a pliers on any of the ball-joints.

now in terms of performance its just a night and day difference compared to the previous nitro converted chassis. i couldn't be happier with this car, from the turning to the jumping it is most definitely a big improvement. I really wasn't expecting much of a difference but wow, I'm blown away.

i hope TLR keep up the good work and release an electric variant of the 3.0 Truggy.
in fact can anyone confirm if TLR will or will not be releasing an electric specific 3.0 truggy?
Not sure you would ever get a confirmation from an official source on that until you saw an official relase. I don't have a clue if they are planning such a thing. As it is not a huge segment of the hobby so I would be suprised if they did personally but I have no clue.
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Old 12-16-2013, 05:40 PM   #1121
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I too just took my new 8ight for a ride this past weekend. It is my first 1/8. I was impressed with the power and durability. The build took a while but I'm a slow builder. directions were pretty strait forward.

There was a jump with a wall about 3 feet after. I hit that wall pretty hard as I jumped for the first time. No damage at all! I had similar crashes that night but not as bad and still no damage.

One question tire related...the track I was on is a clay dirt mix. I bought Clay handle bars and they really suck on this surface. Why do the manufacturers put clay on the tire packaging...when they really are not that good on clay? Am I misunderstanding something?

Seems the super soft tires do the best on the indoor tracks in my area.
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Old 12-16-2013, 05:43 PM   #1122
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Clay tires work best on high clay content tracks that are kept moist. If the track is a mix then a super soft tire is usually the ticket.
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drepus???? it's "superd" backwards since it was taken!
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Old 12-16-2013, 05:55 PM   #1123
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+1 what drepus said. We have a clay dirt mixture, and clays do work when the track is really moist. But we normally run soft/SS most of the time.
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Old 12-16-2013, 06:08 PM   #1124
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Any chance we might see blank 16mm machined pistons in the future?
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Old 12-16-2013, 06:42 PM   #1125
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Thanks Guys!!
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