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Old 10-16-2013, 01:20 PM   #826
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I've been using both Adam Drake's set ups for both indoor and outdoor. For outdoor I do like the shock setup(8 hole pistons with 37.5 and 30). For indoor I tried the 5 holes pistons and 35wt oil and I'm not sure I like it. I did not like the way the buggy landed, it seems to slap the ground and bounce on flat landings.

Can someone please explain to me why Adam went with 5 hole pistons for indoor and 8 hole pistons for outdoor.
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Old 10-16-2013, 01:26 PM   #827
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I've been using both Adam Drake's set ups for both indoor and outdoor. For outdoor I do like the shock setup(8 hole pistons with 37.5 and 30). For indoor I tried the 5 holes pistons and 35wt oil and I'm not sure I like it. I did not like the way the buggy landed, it seems to slap the ground and bounce on flat landings.

Can someone please explain to me why Adam went with 5 hole pistons for indoor and 8 hole pistons for outdoor.
typically, indoor races are shorter and thus you can run thinner oil and it will remain consistent and also, most indoor tracks are smoother and thus the 5 hole pistons should have more speed.
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Old 10-16-2013, 01:49 PM   #828
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typically, indoor races are shorter and thus you can run thinner oil and it will remain consistent and also, most indoor tracks are smoother and thus the 5 hole pistons should have more speed.
Thanks, that makes sense. What are some ways to get the car to stick flat landings better? I build my shocks with zero rebound. Most indoor tracks have shorter distances between take off and landing ramps that I tend to over jump and land on the flat section.
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Old 10-16-2013, 01:49 PM   #829
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BSC-- no i used TLR oils and are you talking about the front pin hinge adjuster inserts?
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Old 10-16-2013, 03:27 PM   #830
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BSC-- no i used TLR oils and are you talking about the front pin hinge adjuster inserts?
Yes he is talking about kickup inserts. Run 0s up front for indoors. This is the only adjustment we made for indoors.
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Old 10-20-2013, 08:57 AM   #831
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Make sure you do NOT use the shock oil that came with the kit--it is very unreliable, and could greatly influence your setup for the worse. Use TLR shock oil.

As an FYI, we tried that setup, and took Casper and Ryan's advice and came back to the kit setup with 0s in the front--MUCH better. We look forward to your feedback on that setup, though.


well i ran that setup at the track friday and it was perfect had one of the racers up there give me a few pointers. i did move the front camber arm to the inside bottom hole. and 26mm ride hight and it was on rails he drives a mugen gas buggy and he loved mine so much he going to get one lol
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Old 10-20-2013, 07:08 PM   #832
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I run 50% rebound in the from and 25% in the back. Granted I'm on the 2.0 but I love how my handled. Good running with ya too.
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Old 10-20-2013, 08:16 PM   #833
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well i ran that setup at the track friday and it was perfect had one of the racers up there give me a few pointers. i did move the front camber arm to the inside bottom hole. and 26mm ride hight and it was on rails he drives a mugen gas buggy and he loved mine so much he going to get one lol
Did you use 26mm all around? What about the rear link, still in the middle?
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Old 10-21-2013, 05:34 AM   #834
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26fr 28Rr is what I use for inside. 27/29 outside
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Old 10-21-2013, 05:43 AM   #835
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26fr 28Rr is what I use for inside. 27/29 outside
Thanks Jason, hopefully I'll get to make it out in November. Are you still using stock set up? I set mine up per basic setup except 0's in the front. I noticed the basic setup sheet and the manual have different front shock tower mounting suggestions. What is everyone going by?
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Old 10-21-2013, 10:12 AM   #836
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My setup is different. Pm me tonight and ill tell you what I'm doing. Dont have my car in front of me right now
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Old 10-21-2013, 11:13 AM   #837
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My setup is different. Pm me tonight and ill tell you what I'm doing. Dont have my car in front of me right now
Ok, will do.
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Old 10-21-2013, 01:07 PM   #838
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Questions??

BUMP, still looking for verification on my first question. I'm really *not interested in buying multiple servo saver arms to test with....many thanks.

Potential products I've identified already:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ervo-Saver-Arm

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ervo-Saver-Arm

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...um-8B-8T-10-20

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Woohoo! Just expanded my TLR arsenal with a new 8ight-E 3.0! Going over the setup sheets and forums and looking for verification on product compatibility:


Which aluminum servo saver arm fits the E3?
Has the differential parts for the E3 changed? - More research indicates it has not.
Will the Aluminum Rear hubs and CV axles fit as well?

Looking forward to the build but going to take my time (it's so hard not to jump right in haha) as I'm already waiting on some hopups to arrive. Maybe I'll just start with the shocks. And who has the rear green springs in stock lol. My goto shops are out, not even eBay!
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Old 10-21-2013, 01:17 PM   #839
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You need arm #2 or #3. #1 was for the first batch of 2.0's but they went back to the old style.

All the old diff parts fit. They changed the cut on the internal gears to make them smoother but the old ones still work if that's all u got.

Aluminum rear hubs and the axles fit. Also get the aluminum diff cross pins if u are going for lightweight. I heard they don't wear.
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Old 10-21-2013, 01:17 PM   #840
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BUMP, still looking for verification on my first question. I'm really *not interested in buying multiple servo saver arms to test with....many thanks.

Potential products I've identified already:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ervo-Saver-Arm

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ervo-Saver-Arm

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...um-8B-8T-10-20
The regular one for the 8ight 2.0, the last link you put.
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