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Old 10-02-2013, 07:24 PM   #706
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Already ahead of there Ryan. Good tips though!!
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Old 10-03-2013, 06:53 AM   #707
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Ready to go



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Old 10-04-2013, 09:10 AM   #708
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Hey I'm in the middle of the build and it seems like the steering is not smooth and there is binding . I took off the steering links and the steering system is completely free. The knuckles have a little have a little tension to them but not a ton. Are you guys sanding out the holes in the knuckles to give a little more play? Any info would be great, thanks.
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Old 10-04-2013, 09:23 AM   #709
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Originally Posted by Outtacontrol58 View Post
Hey I'm in the middle of the build and it seems like the steering is not smooth and there is binding . I took off the steering links and the steering system is completely free. The knuckles have a little have a little tension to them but not a ton. Are you guys sanding out the holes in the knuckles to give a little more play? Any info would be great, thanks.
It may be tight balls in the links. If it is not excessive and in the steering I would run it for a pack or two and I would be it would loosen up. Anything you do now will just add to wear later. Is it a hard stop or just a general drag in the system?
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Old 10-04-2013, 10:49 AM   #710
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A general drag in the system for sure, when the steering links are connected. If I disconnect it from the akerman arm, the full mechanism on the chassis is 100% free.
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Old 10-04-2013, 11:03 AM   #711
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A general drag in the system for sure, when the steering links are connected. If I disconnect it from the akerman arm, the full mechanism on the chassis is 100% free.
This was discussed back a few pages on how tight the balls are in the rod ends and I am sure this is what you are feeling. One trick is to take a pair of pliers and squeeze the plastic around the ball and this will free up the joint a little. I would venture to guess this will help what you are seeing.
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Old 10-04-2013, 11:49 AM   #712
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Unfortunately I already did that trick when I put them on. All balls are 100% free lol thanks for the responses. Maybe grease on the set pins that go through the knuckles? I'm pretty positive that is where the "drag" is coming from.
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Old 10-04-2013, 12:26 PM   #713
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Unfortunately I already did that trick when I put them on. All balls are 100% free lol thanks for the responses. Maybe grease on the set pins that go through the knuckles? I'm pretty positive that is where the "drag" is coming from.
If you gorilla grip the screws going thru the arm bushings its possible to bury them slightly into the plastic with can cause them to bind a little. Try turning the screws that hold caster block to the arms aout a quarter turn and see if that loosens it up. I didnt have that problem on this car, but I have done it in the past on other cars.

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Old 10-04-2013, 09:27 PM   #714
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Hello Guys,


is somebody out there who can help me. I want to buy aluminum top deck and front and rear chassis braces from amain. The only thing they list in part compatibility is the 3.0 Nitro. Im not sure if they will fit the 3.0 E ?

Thanks in advance

Regards
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Old 10-04-2013, 09:36 PM   #715
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I don't know about the braces but the top plate will work, I have it on mine.

I like this thread and this car! Not a bunch of posts about using crap from other cars and dremeling this and modding that to get it to work. This is a great release from TLR. Now if this stupid rain would stay away so I can race it!
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Old 10-05-2013, 12:49 PM   #716
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Just got my rx8 gen 2 and the t8i 1900 today hoping my kit is here next week.

Gotta buy batteries now debating on shortys or 1-4s pack. Anyone have pics of wiring the two shortys it like running a big saddle pack right? This dual battery stuff is new to me
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Old 10-05-2013, 06:32 PM   #717
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Just picked up my 8Ight e 3.0 A question

The guys at the hobby shop recommended a orion 1750kv

Everything I have read says to run a 1900kv.

I am sort of new to 1/8 but have been running 1/10 4wds before they got cool again. and I currently run a b44.2 with a 6.5 and love the power

Will this 1750 on 4s not be enough? should I take it back? I am a little frustrated, but everyone at the shop said I should be running a 1750?

Running indoor clay, medium sized tracks.
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Old 10-05-2013, 06:41 PM   #718
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZeGerman View Post
Hello Guys,


is somebody out there who can help me. I want to buy aluminum top deck and front and rear chassis braces from amain. The only thing they list in part compatibility is the 3.0 Nitro. Im not sure if they will fit the 3.0 E ?

Thanks in advance

Regards
Top deck is direct fit. Both chassis braces will not work.
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Old 10-05-2013, 06:50 PM   #719
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zspeed36 View Post
Just picked up my 8Ight e 3.0 A question

The guys at the hobby shop recommended a orion 1750kv

Everything I have read says to run a 1900kv.

I am sort of new to 1/8 but have been running 1/10 4wds before they got cool again. and I currently run a b44.2 with a 6.5 and love the power

Will this 1750 on 4s not be enough? should I take it back? I am a little frustrated, but everyone at the shop said I should be running a 1750?

Running indoor clay, medium sized tracks.
1750 will be good indoors.
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Old 10-05-2013, 07:16 PM   #720
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I hear 1700 is good for indoors, do you mean a 1900 would be great? because I don't understand 1/8 motor number to power ratios yet could you maybe put that in perspective to 1/10 turns? like a 10.5 in a 2wd buggy compared to a 6.5 in 2wd? Sorry if that sounds stupid.
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