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Old 10-21-2016, 01:04 PM   #4036
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Hi, 1 Month ago after being out of the Rc world fro over 25 Years I got myself a 8ight-E RTR 3.0 buggy. It is nice and run like a champ except me behind the wheel. My problem is that I want to buy a Chassis for my buggy and everywhere i checked it is discontinued or not available ???? What this is not a very old model i think so I don't understand why this important part is discontinued. Any of you guys can help find this chassis ?

Thanks
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Old 10-21-2016, 02:13 PM   #4037
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then it appears that i was misled, here's the thread: www . rctech . net/forum/r-c-items-sale-trade/963707-fs-losi-3-0e-w-tekin-gen-2-esc-1900kv-200-bnip. html



fair enough. are the rest of the parts interchangeable or when looking for parts should i be looking at the nitro car?

thanks guys - sorry for my ignorance.
As "Soar Loser" said, it could well be a Nitro 3.0 converted to electric, but when I look at the sale listing, that is not what I would have expected from the description. I would have expected the electric-specific chassis.

I think ("think", not "sure") that everything from the diff pinions on out to the ends of the car (excluding the rear shock tower) would be the same on the electric and nitro versions.
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Old 10-21-2016, 05:27 PM   #4038
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Default Parts Required to Fully Convert and 8ight 3.0 to 8ight E 3.0

8ight E 3.0
LOSA3560 Spur gear and diff seal plate
TLR242002 Front Center Drive Shaft
TLR242009 Rear Center Drive Shaft
TLR241001 Chassis Guard
TLR241002 Battery Tray
TLR241006 Chassis
TLR241004 Servo and Receiver Box
TLR242006 Motor Mount
TLR242007 Motor mount/diff mount
TLR242008 Diff bushing ring not included with the nitro version
TLR241003 Front and Rear Chassis Brace


Here is a list i compile of all the parts that would be required to be replaced on the 8ight 3.0 to 100% convert it to an E version. There are some parts that can be recycled from the nitro into the electric. I believe one of the center diff mounts is reused and the front center drive shaft on the nitro is the same as the rear center drive shaft.

When I priced everything out on amain it would have cost about $160 to do the conversion. I only think it is worth it if there is some competitive advantage over doing the simple conversion.

Please not this does not cover the misc screws you would need. If you took the time you could probably cut the price down to 120-130 if you shop on ebay or can get some deals.
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TLR 8IGHT E 3.0 THREAD-center-dif-mount.png  
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Old 10-21-2016, 08:41 PM   #4039
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ta_man, yes I would have thought the same thing, the seller should have specified it was a nitro to electric conversion. You are correct the front and rear assemblies the same. The shock towers just have different shock and camber locations and are interchangeable.
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Old 10-22-2016, 05:46 AM   #4040
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Hi, 1 Month ago after being out of the Rc world fro over 25 Years I got myself a 8ight-E RTR 3.0 buggy. It is nice and run like a champ except me behind the wheel. My problem is that I want to buy a Chassis for my buggy and everywhere i checked it is discontinued or not available ???? What this is not a very old model i think so I don't understand why this important part is discontinued. Any of you guys can help find this chassis ?

Thanks
Both Amani hobbies and eBay have both the electric and nitro available. TLR241006 for the e version.
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Old 10-22-2016, 07:31 PM   #4041
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thanks for all the info guys.

so as far as motor/spur mesh, i guess some noise is to be expected?

i noticed a lot of front to back movement on the spur gear/center diff. not sure if that's normal either. but ive put a few hours on the car now and it doesn't seem to care.
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Old 10-22-2016, 07:46 PM   #4042
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thanks for all the info guys.

so as far as motor/spur mesh, i guess some noise is to be expected?

i noticed a lot of front to back movement on the spur gear/center diff. not sure if that's normal either. but ive put a few hours on the car now and it doesn't seem to care.
I measured my converted 8ight 3.0 and there is about 1.5mm of slide in the center diff
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Old 10-22-2016, 09:06 PM   #4043
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Yes it will have a little more noise, just get the gear mesh right and all will be fine. I have ran the Eight 2.0 buggy and now an Eight T 3.0 converted with no issues. You can shim the play out if you like, I personally have not and haven't had a problem, but have thought about doing it.
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Old 10-22-2016, 11:30 PM   #4044
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I measured my converted 8ight 3.0 and there is about 1.5mm of slide in the center diff
thats probably about what i have

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Originally Posted by Soar Loser View Post
Yes it will have a little more noise, just get the gear mesh right and all will be fine. I have ran the Eight 2.0 buggy and now an Eight T 3.0 converted with no issues. You can shim the play out if you like, I personally have not and haven't had a problem, but have thought about doing it.
is it relatively simple to shim out? i haven't really done anything to this car yet
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Old 10-23-2016, 10:17 AM   #4045
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This is one tough car when it is all sorted out. These things last. I had a blast racing last night after I got the esc to stay in place. This thing is fast with a Tekin T8 1900, with a 15 pinion and steel spur. Handling is great with the stock set up, and jumps are no problem. I was really fast on the long straightaway. I can see why everyone wants to race E buggy, there a blast! I advise using the gel Loctite on the slide screw that locks the motor in place, it will move. I am running the forward battery mod, traction all day for outdoors.
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Old 10-23-2016, 10:23 AM   #4046
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I have the exact same car with same motor. And yes they are fast. But the driver sucks lol. I'll give an example of how tough.....once broke my hinge pin and didn't break the a-arm. Showed it to a guy who'd raced for 25 years. He said he'd never even heard of that.

PS. My ebuggy is rtr. Stands for ready to replace. Get some shock towers rather than the cheap stamped ones. Battery forward good, just do it right.
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Old 10-23-2016, 10:46 AM   #4047
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They are tough. My biggest problem is getting the esc to stay on. I bash mine often. 2200kv castle. Steel spur because plastic can't handle it.
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Old 10-23-2016, 11:35 AM   #4048
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Everyone at my track shoegoos them on and say it is the best. I have now done both of mine and will see. The shoegoo works two ways, as an adhesive, and for shock absorption. Yeah, the plastic spur doesn't last long at all. Be very generous with the shoegoo.
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Old 10-23-2016, 02:49 PM   #4049
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cloead, remove the four screws from the bottom of the chassis holding the center diff assembly. Once off remove the four screws in the top plate and remove it. Now you will be able to separate the diff from the motor mount and front diff mount. The diff has flange bearings, use diff shims and place over the bearing up to the flange. You can place shims on one side or both to get it how you want. Then put the diff back into the mounts, install top plate, then put center diff assembly back on chassis.
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Old 10-24-2016, 08:49 AM   #4050
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Originally Posted by Soar Loser View Post
cloead, remove the four screws from the bottom of the chassis holding the center diff assembly. Once off remove the four screws in the top plate and remove it. Now you will be able to separate the diff from the motor mount and front diff mount. The diff has flange bearings, use diff shims and place over the bearing up to the flange. You can place shims on one side or both to get it how you want. Then put the diff back into the mounts, install top plate, then put center diff assembly back on chassis.
awesome, thanks
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