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Old 04-22-2016, 03:09 PM   #3901
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Originally Posted by Cabledawg View Post
Noone wanted to answer the questions till I seemingly insulted a fellow driver for replacing a new motor with a lower KV motor. Then you guys want to come out of the woodwork touting your experience and how you have seen these smart asses that know everything.
I also have 20 plus years experience in cars and planes. I can tell you that:
  • A 6S system will be more efficient than a 4S for the SAME amount of power/watts
  • A 6S system will run cooler than a 4S for the SAME amount of power/watts
  • A 6S system will produce less amps than a 4S for the SAME amount of power/watts
I don't expect anyone to have a difference of opinion on those 3 facts. IE:....A 6S and a 4S system both producing 1000 Watts....The 6S system does it easier on the battery, ESC, and motor.
There is no doubt a 1900KV is better for 6S than my 2200KV. I agree with that because 1900KV gives me better gearing options. That doesn't mean I can't get there on 2200KV...I will try. I do not see the point of buying a 1900KV motor NOW until I try to get there on the new 2200KV. The math tells me I can get there and do it with less amps, better efficiency, and a cooler motor. And if I can't, fine, Ill just buy some 4S batteries and be done. What I will not do is replace a new motor that is working fine with another new motor....that is silly.

Hours after this was posted, Hobbyking had Zippy Flightmax 4S 5800mah 30C on sale for $27 each. 3 of them shipped is $92....What a bargain. I bought them. I have had Flightmax batts in my jets pulling some serious amps, so I know they are decent batteries. I might still at least run some test with 6S and see what I can match on the wattmeter.
Cars and planes present dramatically different motor loads, and they respond differently in a variety of ways. A propeller spins quite easily at low rpms, not much inertia to overcome while the motor is accelerating up to speed, only generating significant load at fairly high rpm. Conversely cars load a motor up at all speeds, including at low speeds and while accelerating.

This lower rpm loading changes things. In a range where the motor is less efficient the amperage will be very high due to the higher driving voltage of a 6S while highly loaded. The power will be higher on the 6S with the same motor, not the same power, and be trickier to maintain reasonable temperatures. Unlike on a plane where a closer match can frequently, but not always, be achieved with a prop change without a motor change.

Doesn't mean you can't experiment and have fun with the 6S packs. It's a popular monster truck setup, loads of power. But I suspect you will find for track use the 4S packs to be a wise investment.
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Old 04-22-2016, 04:10 PM   #3902
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Originally Posted by donny939 View Post
Haha I just noticed the post before me and he has the same servo as me and he's not using the protek so got my answer
Ya, the one that came with the protek servo was the wrong length and the threads didn't fit the screw in the kit to attach the horn to the linkage.
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Old 04-22-2016, 05:41 PM   #3903
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Originally Posted by targetingxmod View Post
WHAT? What 2000 year you live on?
Come on... these super dope lipos can been have for: 90bucks.


Dimensions: 165x52x44mm
-Unless it's another graphene tech from another manufacter's, today there is not a single lipo on earth for RC that can compete with graphene. 900 charge cycles and under LOAD they are the only tech that holds voltage like no tomorow....!!!
Forget it have the Turnigy name, which is good on some, but this is Graphene tech.

All lipos that are not graphene are oldschool now!!



Or this for 70bucks...

Dimensions: 144x51x43mm
Where can these lipos be purchased from?
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Old 04-22-2016, 11:48 PM   #3904
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poor quality photo off my iPhone, and a prototype body. playing around with home made LEDs running off a 1C LiPo
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Last edited by Tcrox; 04-23-2016 at 12:33 AM.
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Old 04-23-2016, 11:54 AM   #3905
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Originally Posted by maddog9 View Post
Sounds like you got the 8ight-e RTR chassis. TLR241006 should be a gold chassis. I use this tuning guide:
http://www.tlracing.com/ProdInfo/Fil...uning_Tips.pdf

I would definitely try one change at a time to get a feel for what each change does. If you can still find Adam drake tlr videos those are good to watch. His new mugen ones are pretty close as well minus a few differences between the cars.
The videos of Adam Drake are great. I saw them before and learned a lot. Itīs sad that he is pretty much the only guy who does these kind of tutorials . The Tessmann family does a lot of building tutorials. These are great too.

Thatīs the chassis plate I got:


And thatīs the kind of chassis plate they tell you you would get. http://www.horizonhobby.com/tft-chas...e-30-tlr241006
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Old 04-23-2016, 08:44 PM   #3906
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Default 2 shorty lipo configurations..

anyone running 2 2s shorty pac configuration? in the 3.0 kit?
instead of 1 4s? ... any thoughts? or negatives?
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Old 04-23-2016, 08:56 PM   #3907
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I ran 2 shortys in my 3.0 They worked really well. Just kind of a pain to deal with charging/taking out of the car to charge/jumper wire.
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Old 04-24-2016, 11:05 AM   #3908
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Originally Posted by foghat View Post
Hi,

Have my buggy almost completely put together now. Looking at the front end, while the left spindle is virtually straight, the right spindle is turned a a bit to the right (toe-out).

The steering rods are the same length - down to a 100th of a mm.

I imagine I can fix by adjusting the right steering rod? But am wondering if there is anything else I should be looking at given the steering rods are currently the same length.

It is normal to run a degree or two of toe out. You do not want the steering links to be different lengths. Adjust your servo trim to that both wheels have equal toe out. If there is still to much toe out make the links longer but do so equally. Do this after you set the ride hieght and sitting ready to race.
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Old 04-24-2016, 01:05 PM   #3909
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Woohoo new body!!


Last edited by rotor head33; 04-25-2016 at 04:34 PM.
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Old 04-24-2016, 04:48 PM   #3910
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Very sharp! What tires are those?
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Old 04-24-2016, 05:22 PM   #3911
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Aka catapults on aka wheels. Don't like the wheels at all but love the tires. They are great on a fairly loose dusty track. Anxious to see how they perform on our new track that is way more packed.
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Old 04-24-2016, 06:27 PM   #3912
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cabledawg View Post
Noone wanted to answer the questions till I seemingly insulted a fellow driver for replacing a new motor with a lower KV motor. Then you guys want to come out of the woodwork touting your experience and how you have seen these smart asses that know everything.
I also have 20 plus years experience in cars and planes. I can tell you that:
  • A 6S system will be more efficient than a 4S for the SAME amount of power/watts
  • A 6S system will run cooler than a 4S for the SAME amount of power/watts
  • A 6S system will produce less amps than a 4S for the SAME amount of power/watts
I don't expect anyone to have a difference of opinion on those 3 facts. IE:....A 6S and a 4S system both producing 1000 Watts....The 6S system does it easier on the battery, ESC, and motor.
The above is completely true. But what seems missing here is that you don't make a 6S system by taking a motor that is appropriate for a 4S system and running it on 6S.
If you want a 6S system you choose a lower KV motor than would be appropriate for a 4S system. It is not simply a matter of changing gearing.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cabledawg View Post
There is no doubt a 1900KV is better for 6S than my 2200KV. I agree with that because 1900KV gives me better gearing options. That doesn't mean I can't get there on 2200KV...I will try. I do not see the point of buying a 1900KV motor NOW until I try to get there on the new 2200KV. The math tells me I can get there and do it with less amps, better efficiency, and a cooler motor. And if I can't, fine, Ill just buy some 4S batteries and be done. What I will not do is replace a new motor that is working fine with another new motor....that is silly.

Hours after this was posted, Hobbyking had Zippy Flightmax 4S 5800mah 30C on sale for $27 each. 3 of them shipped is $92....What a bargain. I bought them. I have had Flightmax batts in my jets pulling some serious amps, so I know they are decent batteries. I might still at least run some test with 6S and see what I can match on the wattmeter.
Please do no be surprised if you have premature ESC failure with those batteries. 30C is below what Castle recommends with the Mamba Monster systems. Not saying you will have problems, just that they are more likely with lower C-rated batteries.
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Old 04-25-2016, 10:28 AM   #3913
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So is my battery going to be a problem?
Associated Reedy LiPo 4S 14.8V 6500mAh 65C

First run today. Been working on the other truck and haven't had time to really test out the 8ight. Brought it to a field. That's what this thing needs, a big wide open space. Holy Ba'ath Party Loyalists batman is this thing fast.

You guys are talking 6s? Whdaya nuts? 4s is out of control.

My motor was too hot to touch. Mamba Monster 2 2650kv stock gearing.

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Old 04-25-2016, 11:56 AM   #3914
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Looking at a bunch of the these pictures, seems most do not have the antenna sticking out of the body? Is this not required depending on the radio? I have an airtronics mt-4.
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Old 04-25-2016, 02:19 PM   #3915
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I run a mt4s and I have my receiver antenna doubled over a couple of time and shrink tubed with no problems
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