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Old 04-15-2016, 01:06 PM   #3856
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superjoe I'm thinking your battery is crapped out? Picture's not showing on my end. If so that sucks.

Car looks nice though. Still building mine but I was inspired by those tires and picked some up. Let us know how it drives once you get some wheel time on it.
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Old 04-15-2016, 01:14 PM   #3857
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Originally Posted by targetingxmod View Post
WHAT? What 2000 year you live on?
Come on... these super dope lipos can been have for: 90bucks.


Dimensions: 165x52x44mm
-Unless it's another graphene tech from another manufacter's, today there is not a single lipo on earth for RC that can compete with graphene. 900 charge cycles and under LOAD they are the only tech that holds voltage like no tomorow....!!!
Forget it have the Turnigy name, which is good on some, but this is Graphene tech.

All lipos that are not graphene are oldschool now!!



Or this for 70bucks...

Dimensions: 144x51x43mm
Where do you get those from?
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Old 04-15-2016, 01:29 PM   #3858
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Those come from Hobbyking.

Just make sure and double check the dimensions before ordering one. Some of those are longer than the standard 4S packs most Buggys were designed to use.

I am running a Turnigy 4S LIHV pack that is 165mm long (Same length as the Graphene hardcase pack pictured above) in my 8ight 2.0 but I had to reconfigure the ESC location and use a Tekno long battery holder that I modified to fit the chassis.

FYI.
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Old 04-15-2016, 02:01 PM   #3859
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The batteries I have, the Reedy, 1 of which is dead are
Dimensions: 5.4 x 1.8 x 1.77 (138 x 47 x 45mm) with some room to spare.
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Old 04-15-2016, 02:40 PM   #3860
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Question?

Started building my kit last night, finished the front end and notice noise coming from the front diff while turning in reverse(smooth turning forward) not a binding or grinding sound, sounds to me more like some extra noise from the ring gear and pinion.

Maybe the gear mesh is a little tight? Should I leave it and break it in and recheck it after?
For what it is worth, I just finished my front diff and it does not make much (and the same) noise regardless of direction.
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Old 04-15-2016, 02:48 PM   #3861
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For what it is worth, I just finished my front diff and it does not make much (and the same) noise regardless of direction.
Ok thx, I'm going to run a pack through it when I get it built then recheck. Did you shim your diffs? My kit didn't come with any so I built without. Maybe when I'm building the rear I will play with some shimming.
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Old 04-15-2016, 04:26 PM   #3862
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Originally Posted by BoostCreep View Post
superjoe I'm thinking your battery is crapped out? Picture's not showing on my end. If so that sucks.

Car looks nice though. Still building mine but I was inspired by those tires and picked some up. Let us know how it drives once you get some wheel time on it.
Thanks man, will do. Yeah dead $150 battery
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Old 04-15-2016, 07:31 PM   #3863
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Does anyone have a Hobbywing XR8 pro paired up with a orion vst2 690 1900kv motor? I just got mine all soldered up and have a terrible cog at first. I have tried multiple sensor wires, set my end points, programmed it over and over, checked my solder joint..... if i unplug the sensor wire it runs smooth with no cogging but i dont want to run sensorless
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Old 04-16-2016, 10:45 AM   #3864
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Originally Posted by Horby32 View Post
Ok thx, I'm going to run a pack through it when I get it built then recheck. Did you shim your diffs? My kit didn't come with any so I built without. Maybe when I'm building the rear I will play with some shimming.
I didn't shim them, just built as per the instructions.
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Old 04-16-2016, 09:00 PM   #3865
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Originally Posted by dougo96 View Post
Does anyone have a Hobbywing XR8 pro paired up with a orion vst2 690 1900kv motor? I just got mine all soldered up and have a terrible cog at first. I have tried multiple sensor wires, set my end points, programmed it over and over, checked my solder joint..... if i unplug the sensor wire it runs smooth with no cogging but i dont want to run sensorless
Maybe sensor board in the motor is dead...
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Old 04-18-2016, 09:26 AM   #3866
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I had the tray all the way forward just like how the 8E 4.0 is now. With the new 8E 4.0 I have the battery all the way forward in the tray as it is. Also, I have the foam block behind the battery so i can move the battery forward, middle back in the tray as well.

Also, Is there a way to lock it down besides your "slider" screws. After a few good hits it will probably start to move.
No, thereīs not a good way to lock it down besides the "slider" screws. My first race of the season is in three weeks and I donīt have much trust in this construction.

I am not making any progress right now anyways. The aluminium chassis plate is so hard, that I already broke two drills. I guess I should use thinner ones before using the actual 2,5 mm drills. But i am wondering if I should just get a completly new tray of a different manufacturer and place it right in the middle of the car.

I canīt move my batteries around because the cables are in the way. I should have gotten lipos, where the cables come out on the top instead of in the front.

Well see what happens
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Old 04-18-2016, 10:04 AM   #3867
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Originally Posted by Kaputttroniker View Post
No, thereīs not a good way to lock it down besides the "slider" screws. My first race of the season is in three weeks and I donīt have much trust in this construction.

I am not making any progress right now anyways. The aluminium chassis plate is so hard, that I already broke two drills. I guess I should use thinner ones before using the actual 2,5 mm drills. But i am wondering if I should just get a completly new tray of a different manufacturer and place it right in the middle of the car.

I canīt move my batteries around because the cables are in the way. I should have gotten lipos, where the cables come out on the top instead of in the front.

Well see what happens
Use a #39 drill bit and 540 tap. Definitely would get a new tray lol.
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Old 04-18-2016, 01:18 PM   #3868
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Damn my chassis was easy as hell to drill.
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Old 04-18-2016, 06:40 PM   #3869
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Can someone help me to see if my thinking and/or math is correct.

I have a recently purchased 3.0 with a Castle Mamba 2 and Neu 2200KV. I took it to the track Sunday and really had a great time. It was my first time racing in 15 years. I have been into planes during that time.

I have a lot of 6S batteries from my planes and only had 2 4S 4500mah to run in the buggy. I want to use my 6S batteries. In doing so, I want to keep the same amount of power with less amps. It should be the same principle as my planes....ie....if I go from 4S to 6S and to a smaller prop, I end up with the same amout of power with less amp draw which is less heat and more efficient.
This is a measureable amount and not theory.

Here are the numbers and I am not positive about everything.
  1. The stock system is 2200KV x 14.8V = 32,560rpms (no load)
  2. My pinion and gear is 15/43 x 3.3 (drive ratio) = 9.46 (Final drive ratio)
  3. 32,560 / 9.46 = 3,441 (rpm's for 1 revolution of wheel)

So if I can find a 6S system close to 3,441....it should be the same amount of power / watts.
  1. 2200KV x 22.2V = 48,840
  2. Pinion Spur is 11/45 for a final drive of 13.487
  3. 48,840 / 13.487 = 3618 (a 10 tooth pinion is 3288)

I realize this is all no load and perfect conditions, but if I do change to 6S and put a wattmeter on it, I should be close to what I had on 4S.......am I close?
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Old 04-18-2016, 07:35 PM   #3870
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hi,

Hoping someone can help me with the shock setup.

I am having a hard time getting rid of all the air bubbles. I follow the instructions and move the piston up and down about 8 times. Afterwards I leave the shock to sit for about 30 minutes. Come back and bubbles gone. however if I move the piston up and down again, I get more bubbles.

I assume this is not normal?

Also about how far back out should the piston come if I compress the shock without the spring? The one I have put together comes out all the way - think this means I need to bleed some oil?

It has been many, many years since my last RC and I just don't remember some of the basics.

Thanks.
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