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Old 03-19-2016, 08:14 PM   #3706
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I think that is how I did it,lucky guess, and glad I don't have to take it apart. I just finished the rear tower and will have the shocks to build next. I did the tooth paste again for the rear, and every thing is smooth.
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Old 03-19-2016, 08:39 PM   #3707
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Lol!! I bought the 3.0 to save money over the 4.0! I plan to use the saved money for battery and motor, if I go to a 4s system for outdoors.
I'm thinking about the same thing. Beings that I think the 3.0 is still better than my AE 8.2e in terms of a race buggy when the 8.2e was the perfect durable bash buggy but can race also.
Did u get a roller or buy a new kit? If so can u PM me where you got it and for how much so I know what to expect! Thanks
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Old 03-19-2016, 10:17 PM   #3708
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Sent u a message. I now have the shocks done, so it is looking better. I am making stupid mistakes, but nothing that can't be fixed. So far not to bad, and everything is very smooth.
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Old 03-20-2016, 01:40 PM   #3709
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This week I will be done, and will need to figure out the battery box. I saw someone eat a $150 battery because of the battery box mod gone wrong, I do not want that.
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Old 03-20-2016, 09:36 PM   #3710
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I still can't imagine how they did that
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Old 03-21-2016, 05:25 AM   #3711
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This week I will be done, and will need to figure out the battery box. I saw someone eat a $150 battery because of the battery box mod gone wrong, I do not want that.
Only way I can see that happening is if the battery wasnt properly secured, but even then I have not seen anyone locally have this happen with the battery tray mod.
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Old 03-21-2016, 01:11 PM   #3712
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I still canīt get my front end to work decently on astro turf. In that race series I am participating in, we have to drive this tire called "sandy soft". It has a blockprofile and I really donīt think itīs any good for astroturf . People keep telling me to run the car with really little droop, but if I go under 28 mm, the front shocks are hardly able to push the chassi back up, especially if I run the green shocksprings. But if I use harder springs, I would loose even more grip, right? If you drive a set up that should give you maximum grip, shouldnīt your car simply flip over in a turn instead of sliding and drifting like mine does? The shock oil I am using in the front shocks is 32 (and a half?).

It also takes so much more power to push the front end down to the ground compared to the back of the car.
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Old 03-21-2016, 05:24 PM   #3713
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i got in the two bodies today to compare the bodies designed for battery forward. the LFR assassin body provides the most clearance but the nose piece doesn't really fit well and i don't care much for the swooping rear. it sits lowest of the bodies i have but still. just don't really feel it.

the concepts body is what i went with. the front vent pod allows for a battery no doubt but it does rub my 6500 smc packs so ill need to put a piece of tape under the body to keep it from rubbing the paint away. well anyways heres some pictures.

so this is the lfr body




heres the jconcepts silencer





and the finished results


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Old 03-21-2016, 06:15 PM   #3714
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I read thicker center diff fluid keeps the front wheels planted, but then others said thicker fluid gives the ability for instant wheelies.
I am a rookie in this area is this true? And what does the front diff fluid and rear diff fluid viscosity?
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Old 03-21-2016, 06:19 PM   #3715
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I need to know if the 4.0 battery tray will fit this, and what parts do I need to finish it?
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Old 03-21-2016, 06:25 PM   #3716
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The 4.0 has the battery back???? Seriously!
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Old 03-21-2016, 07:20 PM   #3717
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The 4.0 has the battery back???? Seriously!
The 4.0 has an option for the tray to be forward and back. A majority i bet will have the battery forward. Not sure if the 4.0 tray will fit. I would just use the 3.0 tray.
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Old 03-21-2016, 07:27 PM   #3718
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Originally Posted by platgof View Post
I need to know if the 4.0 battery tray will fit this, and what parts do I need to finish it?
it's in a post back, if you buy below they are a direct fit to config 3.0 to 4.0

TLR241020 4.0 chassis (must also get plate below)
TLR241021 4.0 motor plate
TLR241012 4.0 battery tray

or you can purchase a 40G brass weight that should help on weight bias....if adding weight isn't a issue

TLR341000
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Old 03-21-2016, 07:43 PM   #3719
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I am going to run the battery back to avoid the cutting issues. No matter how I look at it, just don't like the battery forward mod, and will just add the weight for balance. If I was a serious racer it might be a problem, but I race like I was driving Miss Daisy!
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Old 03-21-2016, 08:30 PM   #3720
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Originally Posted by rotor head33 View Post
i got in the two bodies today to compare the bodies designed for battery forward. the LFR assassin body provides the most clearance but the nose piece doesn't really fit well and i don't care much for the swooping rear. it sits lowest of the bodies i have but still. just don't really feel it.

the concepts body is what i went with. the front vent pod allows for a battery no doubt but it does rub my 6500 smc packs so ill need to put a piece of tape under the body to keep it from rubbing the paint away. well anyways heres some pictures.

so this is the lfr body




heres the jconcepts silencer





and the finished results


Why are you running such long wires to the battery? Why turn battery around shorten the wires.
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