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Old 03-06-2016, 05:46 PM   #3631
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We finally got electronics hooked up and I'm unsure about the steering. If the bolt in the picture is tightened down, the servo saver does not allow free right/left movement but if I loosen the bolt as seen in the picture I get great steering but it doesn't seem like the servo saver is, or would do, anything that it's supposed to do.

What are we missing here...? Isn't there supposed to be some spring buffer at full right/left to protect the servo?
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Old 03-06-2016, 07:00 PM   #3632
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Is it missing a washer that sits on the servo saver? Try adding a washer on the servo saver, that is small enough to ride just the bearing.
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Old 03-06-2016, 07:24 PM   #3633
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Originally Posted by pdxrealtor View Post
We finally got electronics hooked up and I'm unsure about the steering. If the bolt in the picture is tightened down, the servo saver does not allow free right/left movement but if I loosen the bolt as seen in the picture I get great steering but it doesn't seem like the servo saver is, or would do, anything that it's supposed to do.

What are we missing here...? Isn't there supposed to be some spring buffer at full right/left to protect the servo?
Yes if you have the servo saver set right it, it will absorb any hard blows that might occur while on the track. It absorbs it so your servo doesnt take the grunt and break. Probably wont see the effects of it unless you take servo saver out and twist it by hand. There is a happy medium with the servo saver, too loose and the car wont turn, too tight and the servo will absorb all the impact.
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Old 03-06-2016, 08:52 PM   #3634
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I'd like to thank maddog9 for all his input and advice both here and the 4.0 e thread, you have been of great help!. Well I decided to convert my 3.0 to a 4.0 and can confirm the conversion went down pretty easily, I haven't done a full conversion as that will be stupid and expensive. I got the chassis, motor mount, battery tray which is the 3.0 truggy's tray, body and the rear suspension holders which im my opinion is not needed ($40). Its a straight bolt-on guys no issues whatsoever!. All I have to do now is give it a run and see how it goes, I never tried the battery forward on my 3.0, I was battling to get more on-power corner speed, other guys were killing me, hoping with this conversion and what I have been reading somewhat helps with my problem. Love the fact I have the 3.0 at my disposal as a back-up. Thanks to TLR for making parts compatible with older kits!.
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Old 03-07-2016, 08:51 AM   #3635
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Default My just completed 8ight 3.0 E

Just finished yesterday. Paint by myself. Electronics: Hobbywing Xerun SCTPro 2250KV sensored Brush-less System, Battery is a Graphene 5000mAH 4S 90C from Hobby King, Savox Digital SV-1272sg servo, Panther tires.




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Old 03-07-2016, 08:52 AM   #3636
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^^^Nice looking car! We just got the same ESC/motor setup and one of out ESCs literally blew up while we were setting up the steering and gear lash. It was the caps that went, but the entire unit including all the wires were very hot. Scares the crap out of you when a cap blows its top off right below your face!!
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Old 03-07-2016, 08:59 AM   #3637
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Is it missing a washer that sits on the servo saver? Try adding a washer on the servo saver, that is small enough to ride just the bearing.
According to the assembly book, no washer is supposed to be there. No instructions to say leave that bolt loose either. EDIT - just found this Team Losi Racing 8ight 3.0 and it seems there are bushings on top of this assembly... Hmmm....

We did back out the servo saver nut the 5 1/2 turns per the instructions.


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Yes if you have the servo saver set right it, it will absorb any hard blows that might occur while on the track. It absorbs it so your servo doesnt take the grunt and break. Probably wont see the effects of it unless you take servo saver out and twist it by hand. There is a happy medium with the servo saver, too loose and the car wont turn, too tight and the servo will absorb all the impact.
Does backing out the servo saver nut (the blue anodized piece) constitute loosening or tightening?

I think throwing a washer on top of that assembly may completely disable the servo saver. With the bolt loosened, I'm getting full travel right to left, with absolutely no shock absorption on full right or left.

Last edited by pdxrealtor; 03-07-2016 at 09:13 AM.
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Old 03-07-2016, 09:14 AM   #3638
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Originally Posted by pdxrealtor View Post
According to the assembly book, no washer is supposed to be there. No instructions to say leave that bolt loose either.

We did back out the servo saver nut the 5 1/2 turns per the instructions.




Does backing out the servo saver nut (the blue anodized piece) constitute loosening or tightening?

I think throwing a washer on top of that assembly may completely disable the servo saver. With the bolt loosened, I'm getting full travel right to left, with absolutely no shock absorption on full right or left.
backing out the nut would loosen the servo saver and make servo saver top and servo savor bottom pieces swivel easier when you reach full lock and go beyond that point. This is good but at the same time you will lose steering bc it will swivel when you are at full lock and not allow the steering assembly to go to full lock. So again need to find that happy medium. I know what the book says about bottoming (spring fully compressed) the nut out and then backing it out 5-1/2 turns, i did maybe 4 turns back out, (probably about 3 threads showing below the servo saver nut). I will see if i can get a good picture of my servo saver later. Washer that isn't under the top plate is going to effect anything as far as the servo part. All the washer is going to do is raise the top plate up. Another thing make sure your toe out is set pretty close to the book and make sure your end points are set with the wheels on the car. I usually set the ends point by the Ryan Lutz method where you drop the car as if you were setting the right height and set the end point until it buzzes and then come back about 3 points until it is no longer buzzing. Hope this helps.
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Old 03-07-2016, 09:23 AM   #3639
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Thanks.. yes.... especially the end point setup!

What I still don't understand is that washer/top plate raising. It I tighten that plate down against the servo saver my steering goes away. The whole thing jambs up. Loosen the top plate to relieve the pressure and I get full side to side steering without any servo saver benefits. This even though my servo saver is setup per the instructions at 5 1/2 turns.

Somethings not right, I just need to figure it out..... lost!
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Old 03-07-2016, 09:50 AM   #3640
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Originally Posted by pdxrealtor View Post
Thanks.. yes.... especially the end point setup!

What I still don't understand is that washer/top plate raising. It I tighten that plate down against the servo saver my steering goes away. The whole thing jambs up. Loosen the top plate to relieve the pressure and I get full side to side steering without any servo saver benefits. This even though my servo saver is setup per the instructions at 5 1/2 turns.

Somethings not right, I just need to figure it out..... lost!
The only thing i can think of is make sure the top plate is seated correctly. Also make sure the posts that the servo saver assembly sits on is properly seated on the chassis as well. Make sure the bearings that go in (top and bottom) the servo savor tube are seating properly as well. If you can't figure it out I would find either someone who is a TLR driver or who knows the 8ight line at your local track. Or even go to your local hobbyshop and see if they can assist you.
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Old 03-07-2016, 09:15 PM   #3641
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I think I was mis-understanding the function of the servo saver. I was thinking it only works when/if you were to hit a solid object at full right/left lock. However, I see at full lock the only thing that would give is the front wheel hub. At full lock there is no pressure on the servo any longer.

I understand what you mean when you say there is a fine line between good steering and crap steering because the servo saver is too loose.

Hand to forehead moment.... hopefully the above is correct and I can move on... haha.
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Old 03-10-2016, 05:46 PM   #3642
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Getting mine Monday and then start building it. I plan on running indoor clay track, medium size. I will be using a 3s system to see how it does before throwing money at a 4s. Cancun Tom, nice paint!!
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Old 03-11-2016, 11:15 AM   #3643
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Default What pitch is stock 43 T Spur?

Just finished my 3.0E. I cannot find anywhere what the pitch is of the Losa3560 43T spur gear that comes with the kit. I thought it was 32P but when I installed my Hobbywing Xerun SCT Pro combo I used one of the 2 pinion gears included with this motor ESC package thinking the 19T pinion was 32 pitch. However after trying an initial run it chewed all the teeth off of the plastic spur gear. After taking the motor off I compared this pinion to the other one included and found that the pitch is slightly different. I find it curious that neither Losi nor Hobbywing mentioned what pitch these gears are. Can someone set me in the right direction? Thanks in advance. (PS My gear mesh was correct).
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Old 03-11-2016, 11:18 AM   #3644
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Just finished my 3.0E. I cannot find anywhere what the pitch is of the Losa3560 43T spur gear that comes with the kit. I thought it was 32P but when I installed my Hobbywing Xerun SCT Pro combo I used one of the 2 pinion gears included with this motor ESC package thinking the 19T pinion was 32 pitch. However after trying an initial run it chewed all the teeth off of the plastic spur gear. After taking the motor off I compared this pinion to the other one included and found that the pitch is slightly different. I find it curious that neither Losi nor Hobbywing mentioned what pitch these gears are. Can someone set me in the right direction? Thanks in advance. (PS My gear mesh was correct).
The pitch is Mod 1. Standard pitch for most 1/8 scale and sc trucks.
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Old 03-11-2016, 07:12 PM   #3645
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Love Mod 1, lasts well. Thanks for asking, and answering, the question. Cmon Monday!
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