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Old 02-24-2016, 03:57 AM
  #3616  
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Originally Posted by pballer2777
so I was at motorama this past weekend and used my 3.0nfor the 1st time. the car was good worked on it alittle each run because I found it alittle loose in the rear. aside from that I was talking to a fella and he said that I should move the esc to the rear and battery forward. so my question is what will this do for the car and whats the easiest way to figure out where to drill the holes?
Keep the tray in the same orientation, you will have to cut the inner front ear off. I would start by cutting the off the section where the screw goes in and then slowly start cutting material off until you can fit the battery next to the front brace. If it fits correctly you should be able to use the most frontal chassis side guard hole for your tray. There should be one more screw that you can use i believe what will be now the back interior screw. Next you can find the location of the remaining holes drill and tap them so you can use the 5/40 thread screw. You will more then likely have to notch the top of the tray where spur is located. Lastly, I would notch the underneath of the tray so you can run the esc wire under the battery and avoid getting the wire anywhere near the spur gear.

I think it made the car more stable and put more weight up front which gave the car more overall steering. You may have to adjust your shock oils to account for the weight moving more towards the front.

Originally Posted by pdxrealtor
We want the same thing for different reasons.

It used to be in the front on the 2.0 and I can't see any reason for LOSI to move it except for handling effects. So..... moving the battery back where it came from on the previous model maybe a backwards move.
The reason it was kept this way is that Dakotah Phend won a roar race with it in this location when the car was first being tested.
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Old 02-24-2016, 06:28 AM
  #3617  
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Here is a picture of the best setup 8ight-E 3.0 buggy in town. Battery in the forward location.
Attached Thumbnails TLR 8IGHT E 3.0 THREAD-image.jpg  
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Old 02-24-2016, 08:39 AM
  #3618  
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so the mod is worth doing?
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Old 02-24-2016, 09:00 AM
  #3619  
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Originally Posted by pballer2777
so the mod is worth doing?
Yep never switched it back after doing the mod. There is a reason the 4.0 has the option for the battery forward.
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Old 02-24-2016, 10:18 AM
  #3620  
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Originally Posted by maddog9
Yep never switched it back after doing the mod. There is a reason the 4.0 has the option for the battery forward.
i'm also considering just getting the 4.0 chassis
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Old 02-24-2016, 10:36 AM
  #3621  
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To me it makes no sense to have that much weight up front on only half of the car. At least in the back the motor adds some weight. More so than the gear up front.

I would think your car would steer different on one side....
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Old 02-24-2016, 11:01 AM
  #3622  
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Originally Posted by pballer2777
i'm also considering just getting the 4.0 chassis
I personally would just get a 8E 4.0 Kit, takes away all the work you have to do to run the battery up front as well as a couple other mods.
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Old 02-24-2016, 11:13 AM
  #3623  
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Do you see a problem with cutting back the front of the tray, left in the rear position, in order to move the ESC back closer to the motor?

Or would it be better to use a platform and raise the ESC up so it rests on the front of the battery tray where there is a void from the battery being shorter than the tray. This would put the ESC under the center of the car cover right in front of the windshield, which could easily be cut out for ventilation over the ESC.

I hate to cut the motor wires to solder on a 1/4" of wire.
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Old 02-24-2016, 11:19 AM
  #3624  
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Originally Posted by maddog9
I personally would just get a 8E 4.0 Kit, takes away all the work you have to do to run the battery up front as well as a couple other mods.
i know i should but now is not the time. i'm goin to pnb in april and just was trying to make the car alittle better b4 going
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Old 02-24-2016, 11:33 AM
  #3625  
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Originally Posted by pdxrealtor
Do you see a problem with cutting back the front of the tray, left in the rear position, in order to move the ESC back closer to the motor?

Or would it be better to use a platform and raise the ESC up so it rests on the front of the battery tray where there is a void from the battery being shorter than the tray. This would put the ESC under the center of the car cover right in front of the windshield, which could easily be cut out for ventilation over the ESC.

I hate to cut the motor wires to solder on a 1/4" of wire.
Not sure what you are proposing. All I can say is there is a reason the new 8E 4.0 has an option for the battery tray to be in the forward position. Also, there a reason i think all the TLR pros are running the battery in the forward position. All I can say is try what you are proposing compared to the battery in the forward position and see what works best for you.

I have tried the car both ways and the battery tray forward is hands down better indoor and outdoors.
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Old 03-05-2016, 05:23 PM
  #3626  
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I just ordered a kit and will take my time putting it together. I decided against the 4.0 for $ reasons, $340 shipped is pretty good. I will use it indoor and outdoor, and I may run 3s to see if I like it.
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Old 03-06-2016, 08:12 AM
  #3627  
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i pulled the trigger and purchased a TLR 8ight-E 3.0 due to the kit being $200 discounted, from horizon hobbies last night. i also got free shipping and a additional 10% discount code worked

what springs would i need for running on a small outdoor dirt track?
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Old 03-06-2016, 10:47 AM
  #3628  
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It's hard to turn down a deal like that. I have always wanted an 8th scale buggy as they look very beefy. Plus I hear this one handles very well. I plan on using tooth paste to ream the ball cups if they really are still that tight, with a drill, like what was mentioned on an earlier post.
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Old 03-06-2016, 01:35 PM
  #3629  
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there are around 3-4 racers at track i run at with the new 4.0, and aren't noticing the difference vs. the 3.0 they upgraded on the what is a 1/10 scale track. but at the huge track like what was run at DNC...said 4.0 was slightly easier and smoother to drive, electric or nitro

getting the 3.0 at a price right at what a new 2WD buggy costs, was worth giving it a shot. money saved on a the made a huge $200+ dent on a 1/8 tekin/motor combo i ordered from someplace else, where i got a $55 off discount code and free shipping to boot

i consider this 3.0 sale as a gift horse to get in 1/8 scale E
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Old 03-06-2016, 03:35 PM
  #3630  
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I totally agree, what a bargain. Mine will be here soon, and I will need an RX8 soon. I will start indoors with 3s, then go 4s outdoors. I do plan to move the battery forward as mentioned here.
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