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Old 11-25-2015, 04:11 PM   #3511
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thank you very much for your answer dynamiteracer. I used a pair of pliers and did exactly as you told me. I saw Adam Drake do it on youtube. I did that at the beginning of the season about 10 times, after each practice. As soon as I returned on the track, they were completely tight again (couldnīt even move them by hand). I ended up cutting dents in them with the sharp middle part of the pliers. That finally helped. For the front hinge pins I had to remove a big chunk of the chassis.

Iīll will remove front and rear clip completely when I want to change the diff oil next time.

What would you suggest for set up to make the car feel as numb as possible on astro turf besides heavy sway bars?
I initially wanted to just go back to the out of the box settings since the rod ends are finally moving freely now. But Iīd rather have a good starting set up for astro turf. That would mean, that I have to get new machined pistons, but which ones should I get and what shock fluid? What diff oils?

So far I am running 3000, 7000, 2000, which might be ridiculous, but at least it seems to take the turns a little better. I found out that toe in or toe out makes a huge difference as well.

Another thing I donīt get and other drivers have noticed on my kit as well: The further I push the car down to the ground in the front, the harder it gets to do so. On the rear I donīt have the same problem. I already made the holes wider in the front suspension arms and clean them regularly. Doesnīt help much.

I wished I could start over with a brand new kit, but I lost trust it would be any better. Did they fix these problems and upgraded the kit? In Germany we say, if a product is usually good, but the specific one you got doesnīt do what itīs supposed to do, it was produced on a Monday ; ) That might be the case as well.
We like to run the diffs at 5000, 10000, and 3000 on higher traction tracks. I know here in the states they have fixed the rod ends with updated ones but it is hard to tell if it is new stock or old just by looking. The rod ends do need squeezed a couple times after running to accomplish the desired feel. Stock pistons work well on our indoor tracks with 32.5 front and 30 rear oils. If traction is good use less rear toe so that the car rolls the center of the corner well then adjust rear antiaquat for the desired feel while on power out of the turn.
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Old 11-28-2015, 11:05 AM   #3512
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We like to run the diffs at 5000, 10000, and 3000 on higher traction tracks. I know here in the states they have fixed the rod ends with updated ones but it is hard to tell if it is new stock or old just by looking. The rod ends do need squeezed a couple times after running to accomplish the desired feel. Stock pistons work well on our indoor tracks with 32.5 front and 30 rear oils. If traction is good use less rear toe so that the car rolls the center of the corner well then adjust rear antiaquat for the desired feel while on power out of the turn.
Hi Dynamiteracer. Thank you. Thatīs a great answer and I am sure it will help. I am looking forward to try it. Too bad we have hardly any 8th scale indoor tracks. The closest ones are a 3 or 4 hour drive from my hometown. I am already looking forward to the new season. It is such a great hobby. Best wishes.
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Old 12-05-2015, 11:24 PM   #3513
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Is there a big difference in how an emulsion type shock feels on the track compared to a bladder type shock? I would like to get the 4.0 caps for my Buggy and Truggy due to the ease of bleeding, but next time out is a big race, so would like to know what to expect?
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Old 12-06-2015, 02:04 PM   #3514
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Default expo setting and drag brake

Hi there,

I was playing vrc pro tonight and kept wondering what would happen to the car, if I change expo settings on my transmitter and drag brake on the bec. By increasing the drag brake quite a bit, it got so much easier to drive into the corner. Then I decreased acceleration by my expo settings on the transmitter and it became so much easier to keep the raceline at the exit. I didnīt change the car set-up at all. I knew it would make a difference, but I didnīt think it would be that much.

So I was wondering: What is your approach to the set up of your car? Are you actually using these settings a lot? I never read about it or heard people talk about it. Usually people tell me to change springs, rollcenter, oils...

Another question that comes to my mind is: when thereīs no timing at your track, how do you tell if your laptime is improving with the new set up? Are you driving 10 laps or so and take an average laptime?

And how do you measure time? Do you use your transmitter or cell phone? That seems complicated...
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Old 12-06-2015, 05:10 PM   #3515
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I have a spare 8e 3.0 kit laying around that im gonna build to drag race.....
I need some set up advice as far as the weight of oils in the diffs /shocks...and anything else as far as option "stuff"/parts, or what ever else in general as far as set up....
Its a 250ft race and gotta be 4s.
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Old 12-15-2015, 12:56 AM   #3516
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Anyone know where I can buy a kit thats below $400's? and more importantly ship internationally?. Willing to consider a secondhand roller thats in good condition too.
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Old 12-15-2015, 04:58 AM   #3517
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Check the for sale section.

Or post a wtb thread....

I've picked up two, super clean (each less than 5 races) 3.0 E's each one under that price.....shipped.
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Old 12-15-2015, 06:06 AM   #3518
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Anyone know where I can buy a kit thats below $400's? and more importantly ship internationally?. Willing to consider a secondhand roller thats in good condition too.
horizon has them marked down to $379. i figure the 4.0 is coming because of the price.
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Old 12-16-2015, 06:28 AM   #3519
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Horizon dropped the price, so will we see the E 4.0 in near future?
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Old 12-16-2015, 10:13 AM   #3520
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Cool thanks guys, appreciate the heads up. Forgive me asking this as I'm sure it has been answered before, what shock springs would I need to get, well one harder than kit supplied?, my track hard packed , high grip, loads of traction rolling from most guys, I suppose besides the harder springs I should get stiffer sway bars as well. It will be my first Losi and I'm not familiar with their parts etc. Please help?.

As for the comments, r.e 4.0E release in the near future, how near??.

Thanks for the assistance guys, appreciate it.
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Old 12-16-2015, 01:58 PM   #3521
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Can someone please show me where the TLR341000 40gr brass ballast weight is installed. Are there two options front or rear? I have looked for pictures or instructions but can't seem to find anywhere.
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Old 12-16-2015, 03:31 PM   #3522
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Can someone please show me where the TLR341000 40gr brass ballast weight is installed. Are there two options front or rear? I have looked for pictures or instructions but can't seem to find anywhere.
Right behind the front gearbox.
No options for mounting weight on the rear.
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Old 12-16-2015, 10:45 PM   #3523
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Getting a kit guys, what is the must have parts to include in the initial build?
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Old 12-17-2015, 06:14 AM   #3524
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Getting a kit guys, what is the must have parts to include in the initial build?
Get the aluminum servo saver top and green rear springs. Might want to get the 8-hole 1.3 Pistons for front shocks and the split 8-hole 1.3/1.2 Pistons for rear if you are gonna run outdoors. Car is solid!!
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Old 12-17-2015, 06:16 AM   #3525
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Getting a kit guys, what is the must have parts to include in the initial build?
Aluminum top plate and aluminum servo saver top
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