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Old 09-29-2015, 10:30 PM   #3466
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Default Losi 8ight same as Eight E?

I have a Losi 8ight gas powered buggy that I have converted to electric. Was wondering if the belly pan from a Eight E buggy would work and bolt right up to the suspension from my 8ight? Trying to see if I can lighten up the buggy by doing so and better balancing the buggy.

Thanks
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Old 09-30-2015, 03:00 AM   #3467
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Originally Posted by akshayp14 View Post
Ok so I need some advice on battery layouts/configurations...

This is what i have:


Lipo choice A) - Positioned full forward and to the center

- Size:136.96 * 42.51 * 44.9mm (L * W * H)
- Weight: 530g

Lipo choice B) Positioned full forward either standing up and closer to the center or lying flat in the width of the tray and spaced full forward

-Size: 114 * 33 * 52mm (L * W * H)
-Weight: 426g

Lipo choice C) Positioned full forward and to the center

-Size 132 * 31 * 39mm (L * W * H)
-Weight: 400g


firstly ive been playing around with the battery in the rear and with the forward tray mod and ive noticed that the car is a lot more predictable with more weight in the rear (A- 530g) but with the tray forward the car overall seemed to enjoy the lightweight pack (B- 426g), it seemed more direct but also very predictable, it did also turn better overall in the very tight sections when compared to the stock tray location, but initially i felt like it had lost mid corner steering (it would just under-steer for no reason, very mildly) and then just changed the kick-up from 1 up's all round to 1 up in the front and 1 down in the rear and it seemed a bit better...

i cant really decide on whether i prefer the battery tray forward or in the stock position yet but what i did notice was a huge difference when using lipo B and positioning it either standing up or lying down...

the attached picture is how the battery looks when it is lying down...its wide and takes up the entire width of the tray but it's only 114mm in length so its pretty short...the other way i have tried it recently is standing it upright, full forward and completely to the center which leaves a rather large gap, but it seems to corner a lot better this way which i find surprising...

1) So my first question is if I'm using lipo B, would lying it flat (33mm height) and full forward so as to keep the weight as low as possible but spread out width-wise not be as effective as lying it upright (52mm height) , full forward and completely towards the center in an effort to keep the weight more to the center at the expense of the lipo sitting a bit higher??

2) second question...is a lighter a battery setup always better ito handling or does it depend on things like the bite of the track, etc? (i've been so surprised that the 530g battery was allowing me to be a lot more consistent, low bite and stock tray position)

Sorry about the ramble, just wanted to get in as much info as a could, i would really appreciate anyone's thoughts, comments and even just some info on the weights and dimensions of batteries that you are using and how you position them in the tray and why...

thanks
I'm no pro, but some of this can be answered. Stacking the battery on edge, raises center of gravity (COG) slightly. BUT it also moves the balance point inwards. Depending on the weight of the motor and esc on the other side of the chassis, this can be bad or good. ie, you don't want alot of weight on one side of the truck, you preferably want the truck balanced down the center line of the chassis.

Secondly, moving the battery forward adds more weight on the front, and this should make the steering more responsive and aggressive, especially in turns where everything wants to understeer. BUT there again, it removes some of the weight from the rear
(less wheelies/ nose heavy) and may cause the rear to unload faster, causing unpredictable acceleration as the rear tires skate for traction.

Does this make sense?, there isn't really any one solution. It depends on what you want from the truck and track conditions. Hope this helped. I have spent so much time on chassis tuning it's unreal. A couple of hours to build a truck, a few days to tune suspension ..ughh.
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Old 10-02-2015, 03:40 AM   #3468
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I wanted to come in and update my dogbone question. I did indeed install dogbones on all four corners of my 2.0 last night. They dropped right in. I was replacing some worn cvd's. It's my understanding the 3.0 cvd's are the same as the 2.0, so this should work for them as well. These are much beefier than the cvd's. Here's what I bought to install. I think these are out of the gasoline/ Dynamite Engine version of the 2.0. They run these in the rear of the gas buggy. The steering had about the same amount of movement afterwards, but I found it's important on these to make sure the outside limits are set in case you're servo drives it to the outside limits. Otherwise even with cvd's, they bind and it's really nasty. I threw a Spektrum S605 servo in mine yesterday and it's about the right travel. Nice little servo btw, about $20, steel gears, 120 oz pull. No problem moving the front tires sitting still. I'm also running gas buggy 15 degree caster, just add one spacer on the A Arms pin, their more narrow. My son drove it last night and mentioned it out turns his Ofna LX buggy. Much tighter turns.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/371270372677...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
US $11.99
$3.99 shipping

Last edited by spookie; 10-02-2015 at 03:51 AM.
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Old 10-02-2015, 04:51 AM   #3469
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Default Centre diff mount holes

Hey guys

Is anyone able to give me some measurements on the centre diff mount holes? I'm seeing if I can use a Losi motor mount on an sworks conversion.

Cheers
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Old 10-02-2015, 08:41 AM   #3470
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Hey guys

Is anyone able to give me some measurements on the centre diff mount holes? I'm seeing if I can use a Losi motor mount on an sworks conversion.

Cheers
Here you go, approximate with an older dial micrometer. I just happen to have my dif off. The front mount is kind of offset as well.

Center to center
Frt 1.240 apart
Rear.820 apart
Frt to Rear 1.290

Front of truck on right, sorry about crappy pic
http://s29.postimg.org/8jcb3kbhj/Dif_mount.jpg
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Old 10-02-2015, 06:33 PM   #3471
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Cheers for that man too bad it not gonna work 😭 the diff holes are fairly spread apart.

Last edited by aussierc427; 10-02-2015 at 06:35 PM. Reason: Spelling
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Old 10-06-2015, 09:58 AM   #3472
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Originally Posted by spookie View Post
I'm no pro, but some of this can be answered. Stacking the battery on edge, raises center of gravity (COG) slightly. BUT it also moves the balance point inwards. Depending on the weight of the motor and esc on the other side of the chassis, this can be bad or good. ie, you don't want alot of weight on one side of the truck, you preferably want the truck balanced down the center line of the chassis.

Secondly, moving the battery forward adds more weight on the front, and this should make the steering more responsive and aggressive, especially in turns where everything wants to understeer. BUT there again, it removes some of the weight from the rear
(less wheelies/ nose heavy) and may cause the rear to unload faster, causing unpredictable acceleration as the rear tires skate for traction.

Does this make sense?, there isn't really any one solution. It depends on what you want from the truck and track conditions. Hope this helped. I have spent so much time on chassis tuning it's unreal. A couple of hours to build a truck, a few days to tune suspension ..ughh.
thank your for taking the time to respond...after 2 days of testing i settled with the battery forward mod and the 426gram battery stacked up and to the center, i have to say it's given me a similar effect as dropping the camber links on the front tower would have..just worried about when running some of the higher traction tracks, oh well time will tell.


p.s the right to left (or vice versa) swing in the air is so much more responsive now as well...i doubt dropping the front camber links on the tower would have done it to that extent for me if at all.


also about upgrading your 2.0 with 3.0 bits i would recommend the 3.0 ackerman arm with bearings as well.
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Old 10-06-2015, 10:21 AM   #3473
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Originally Posted by ResultsRC View Post
I have a losi 8ight E truggy that keeps stripping the rear gears and sometimes the front,even after shimming pretty tight Im looking to just buy complete new differentials, I see a bunch for sale on ebay,is the 3.0 a tighter meshing diff,or do they need shimed freq also?
I hear the buggy gear ratio doesnt have as much problems,looks like buggy pin gear is 13 front and back and truggy is 10 and 11 pin,is the ring gear same size? buggy diffs seem to be much cheaper on ebay,can those be run in a truggy and correct with a diff size spur gear? Are there any differences on the Elec and nitro diffs?
I've put in the 8T 3.0 diff gears, problem solved Don't brother to try the 8b gears, it will still strip... I've tested b4 haha

No difference between the e and nitro diffs
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Old 10-06-2015, 03:31 PM   #3474
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Anyone have input? Is this for High traction>
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http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...fci202/p423772
X Factory "Infinity" Carbon Fiber TLR 8IGHT 3.0 Front & Rear Arm Stiffener Set
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Old 10-08-2015, 09:13 AM   #3475
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anyone know if the newer 8ight-E 3.0 kits have the correct shock oil in them?

as in the 35 and 37.5wt actually match up to the 35 and 37.5 wt we buy bottled?

i remember when i first got it everyone said the oils were way too stiff and to rebuild with tlr oils...is this still the case?

thanks
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Old 10-08-2015, 10:03 PM   #3476
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Originally Posted by Grifter View Post
I have a Losi 8ight gas powered buggy that I have converted to electric. Was wondering if the belly pan from a Eight E buggy would work and bolt right up to the suspension from my 8ight? Trying to see if I can lighten up the buggy by doing so and better balancing the buggy.

Thanks
Anyone?
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Old 10-08-2015, 10:53 PM   #3477
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I just ordered this kit and I'm very excited about the build I'll be running outdoor low grip sandy tracks does anyone have a setup for those conditions they would like to share?
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Old 10-11-2015, 07:59 PM   #3478
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I have been running ebuggy for years, but the 3.0e is the only one I have bought that mounts the esc directly to the chassis. Any issues, hints, pointers on the best way to do it? I assume servo tape, but should I use something thicker for padding?
E
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Old 10-12-2015, 05:09 PM   #3479
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I have been running ebuggy for years, but the 3.0e is the only one I have bought that mounts the esc directly to the chassis. Any issues, hints, pointers on the best way to do it? I assume servo tape, but should I use something thicker for padding?
E
Double or triple up on the double sided tape. Works great.
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Old 10-12-2015, 06:24 PM   #3480
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Originally Posted by akshayp14 View Post
thank your for taking the time to respond...after 2 days of testing i settled with the battery forward mod and the 426gram battery stacked up and to the center, i have to say it's given me a similar effect as dropping the camber links on the front tower would have..just worried about when running some of the higher traction tracks, oh well time will tell.


p.s the right to left (or vice versa) swing in the air is so much more responsive now as well...i doubt dropping the front camber links on the tower would have done it to that extent for me if at all.


also about upgrading your 2.0 with 3.0 bits i would recommend the 3.0 ackerman arm with bearings as well.
Thanks for the tip. I was wondering it that one with bearings was aftermarket or Losi. I also slid my batteries forward on my 2.0, probably 5/8 of an inch, then checked balance by jumping, felt great. I was trying to load the front end with more weight, to help it corner harder/ faster. Car still flies very well balanced. I always concentrate on the front end, I would rather the front end "lead" the rear, but not oversteer. Then the rear end can be loosened or tightened as needed. I like mine slightly loose in the rear. But the composition of the track really determines tires and setting there.

I was trying out Big Blocks M2 VS Sweep Hole Shots M2 yesterday, a huge difference on cornering. The hole shots were a hand full on loose marbles, coming from a higher traction surface transition. They really wanted to break loose and slide throughout the corner. The Blocks just nailed it all around.

Coming from RTR cars to a Losi 8e 2.0 is like stepping into a Ferrari, from a 1980 Chevy truck lol. It's a learning process all the way around lol. I did get my gas buggy camber links on this morning, beefier and much much tighter on the pillow blocks.
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