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Old 03-30-2015, 03:25 AM
  #3091  
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Originally Posted by Blitzrockey
I haven't squeezed the ball ends yet. But how long do you have to drive it till they free up on there own?
Not very long, maybe two 6 - 8 minute runs.

I had binding issues on my 2.0 but that was solved by reaming the arms and polishing the hinge pins. Check and make sure the sway bars properly balanced and secured as this can also be a source of binding.
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Old 03-30-2015, 11:53 AM
  #3092  
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Originally Posted by CRiXman
Wow that's super heavy.. Similar to the EIGHT-E 2.0.. 8.2lbs is approx 3.72 KG

Disappointing.. :-(

Thanks though!
I wouldnt be concerned with weight. I tqed this past weekend over 7.4 lb vehicles that were piloted by the best of the best in the area. You can get it a lot lighter with shortie packs, titanium stuff. I believe Casper had his around 3300 g.
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Old 03-30-2015, 02:10 PM
  #3093  
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Originally Posted by maddog9
I wouldnt be concerned with weight. I tqed this past weekend over 7.4 lb vehicles that were piloted by the best of the best in the area. You can get it a lot lighter with shortie packs, titanium stuff. I believe Casper had his around 3300 g.
I am a little over 3400g ready to hit the track so you can get down there. Really not extreme stuff. Dual shorties, Tekin t8i and titanium tie rods is pretty much all I have done.
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Old 03-31-2015, 02:21 AM
  #3094  
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pinching the ball ends does NOTHING.....
The ball ends are just TOO tight.....
Poor fitting tolerances on the part of TLR. Dare I say, poor engineering...... which what they're selling this car on.......

Don't get me wrong.... I love driving this car, however TLR could have avoided this PRIMARY handling issue.
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Old 03-31-2015, 05:33 AM
  #3095  
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i took the 8 out yesterday for like the 3rd time since i built it. (First time in a couple of months).
The rebound wasnt good before i took it out....i figured id try n wear it in a lil.
forget it....after about 20 minutes of riding, i pressed down on the rear n it was locked. It just stayed down with zero rebound.
something isnt right with the tolerances, thats for sure.
The arms/hinge pins seem alright...I think the plastic needs to get shaved down by the pivot balls. Theyre just too compressed by the hubs/spindles.....I dunno.
The rear's a lil better after loosening all the screws n nuts by a hair, n putting the shock collar all the way down, but still far from ideal...the front is worse....
and im not sure thats something thats gonna wear in and fix itself.

..............

as far as how the car drives......the thing is freakin' awesome.

best rc car ive ever driven.

i like that it has some weight to it.

i had the 8e 3.0 and a pretty much brand new rc8.2e i bought off a friend out yesterday. First time driving the rc8.2e
I liked the 8e 3.0 way better.....and thats coming for someone with an affinity for AE from back in the day.

Another thing that was pretty cool to see was......my friend had an ofna lx2e (i think thats what its called) n he had a 6s in there with a tekin 2650...
He barreled into me at high speed....we were both moving...but it was a real bad one. (front ends collided) .....
That brothers car fell apart like a hot pizza pie,fresh out the oven..Broken parts all over the place... I was looking for someone from the Parks Department to come over there with the broom n the dust pan...
Me, not a scratch...If anything he just knocked some dirt off my car. Cleaned it up for me.
Ah yeah babe.
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Old 03-31-2015, 05:41 AM
  #3096  
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I pinched the ball and ends. I also WD40 them ever couple weeks. No problem with binding.
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Old 03-31-2015, 06:01 AM
  #3097  
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Got my 3.0 this morning and am really impressed with changes from the 2.0
Do the old DE Racing mud guards work on the 8ight-e 3.0 ?
http://www.amain.com/rc-cars/de-raci...-110-l/p165115
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Old 03-31-2015, 08:58 AM
  #3098  
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Originally Posted by Hellbound
Got my 3.0 this morning and am really impressed with changes from the 2.0
Do the old DE Racing mud guards work on the 8ight-e 3.0 ?
http://www.amain.com/rc-cars/de-raci...-110-l/p165115


Yes the DE guards fit.
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Old 03-31-2015, 09:30 AM
  #3099  
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Originally Posted by Trugga
pinching the ball ends does NOTHING.....
The ball ends are just TOO tight.....
Poor fitting tolerances on the part of TLR. Dare I say, poor engineering...... which what they're selling this car on.......

Don't get me wrong.... I love driving this car, however TLR could have avoided this PRIMARY handling issue.
Pinching them does work. The new set I put on Collin's nitro needed pinched three times before they stayed free. Pinch one time when building them, run a few times and repeat, continue this proscess until they stay free and you will be rewarded with the longest lasting camber links in the hobby.Collins e buggy has the original ends on it and its over a year old and has been run nearly every weekend.
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Old 03-31-2015, 02:59 PM
  #3100  
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Is this possible to find out what shocks and diff fluids there are on the RTR?
Just bought a new one as a roller and it would be great to know the weights so I know if I should change or leave them.

No info in the online manual...
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Old 03-31-2015, 03:10 PM
  #3101  
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Originally Posted by stanson
Is this possible to find out what shocks and diff fluids there are on the RTR?
Just bought a new one as a roller and it would be great to know the weights so I know if I should change or leave them.

No info in the online manual...

The Crap from the factory isn't genuine Losi oils, Most dump it in favor of the good stuff.
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Old 03-31-2015, 03:13 PM
  #3102  
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I just got mine today not sure what to use for a setup yet .
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Old 03-31-2015, 03:18 PM
  #3103  
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The Crap from the factory isn't genuine Losi oils, Most dump it in favor of the good stuff.
That's what I thought, thanks.
Now upgrading to the kit specs, anything else I need that is different between kit and rtr besides these?:
- chassis
- chassis battery foam
- shock towers
- shock caps
- wheel nuts
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Old 03-31-2015, 05:27 PM
  #3104  
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Hey all, just bought a used roller off this forum.
expecting delivery Friday...can't wait!

I think I have ordered everything I need to get it on the track.

This is my first 1/8 scale buggy.
I was wondering if it would be advisable to tear it all down then build it up again?
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Old 03-31-2015, 05:35 PM
  #3105  
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Originally Posted by OopsDidIDoThat
Hey all, just bought a used roller off this forum.
expecting delivery Friday...can't wait!

I think I have ordered everything I need to get it on the track.

This is my first 1/8 scale buggy.
I was wondering if it would be advisable to tear it all down then build it up again?
Always best to do a tear down with all new fluids and stuff and check everything out with a used roller purchase IMO.
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