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Old 03-15-2015, 10:56 AM   #3031
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Inside the receiver box is where most are running it. That's where mine is.
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Old 03-15-2015, 04:59 PM   #3032
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Mines in the receiver box as well.
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Old 03-15-2015, 05:57 PM   #3033
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Mine too.....
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Old 03-15-2015, 08:13 PM   #3034
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mxnickj View Post
Hey, this might be a silly question but where are most of you mounting your transponders in this car? There isn't much open room on the chassis anywhere so are you just putting them inside the receiver box? I didn't know if it being inside there would cause it to not count laps 100% of the time or anything like that.
Inside the box or right on the side of it...
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Old 03-15-2015, 10:58 PM   #3035
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Originally Posted by Blackstring View Post
Droop is the amount of down travel in the suspension. The more droop you have the more the chassis will pitch and roll, forward/aft and left/right. Think of it as a roll/pitch stop. Additionally more droop helps with rough tracks as the more travel helps soak up the smaller and more frequent bumps and ruts.

To set droop, you measure the length of the shock from screw eye to screw eye. Generally you want around 103mm front, 112mm rear.

Thanks!!


What are the screws for the are in the front/rear arms right next the chassis?
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Old 03-16-2015, 12:58 AM   #3036
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Thanks!!


What are the screws for the are in the front/rear arms right next the chassis?
The screws you're referring to are indeed the droop screws. If they are unscrewed to the point they contact the chassis the down travel of the arm will start to be limited. In your case being new to racing 8th scale buggy, make sure the screws are screwed in far enough that they don't touch the chassis when the car is off the ground. Hope this helps a little. An experienced racer at your local track can probably help explain how "droop" suspension down-travel changes handling characteristics. But for now you need some wheel time. Start getting laps in.
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Old 03-16-2015, 05:56 PM   #3037
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Does anyone know how phend and maifield got the 3.0evmotor adaptor to take the 4mm hex screws I'm having trouble ?????? Please help

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Old 03-16-2015, 07:13 PM   #3038
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Originally Posted by ProfessorX View Post
Does anyone know how phend and maifield got the 3.0evmotor adaptor to take the 4mm hex screws I'm having trouble ?????? Please help

I have the Orion VST2 pro in mine. Drill the mount holes slightly to fit the 4mm bolts, dremel the 4mm cap head screw heads enough so it fits in the stock mount holes.
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Old 03-16-2015, 07:30 PM   #3039
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I have the Orion VST2 pro in mine. Drill the mount holes slightly to fit the 4mm bolts, dremel the 4mm cap head screw heads enough so it fits in the stock mount holes.
Me too same motor vst2 1900kv thanks I really appreciated and what length are the screws your using thanks once again
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Old 03-17-2015, 09:06 AM   #3040
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Hey guys, I am at work and getting ready to order some things from A-main and forgot to measure how long of a sensor wire I need. I know the ones that come with the Tekin motors are too short for the 3.0 with the ESC up front but can somebody real quick tell me what length sensor wire I need to reach up front to my ESC? Thanks!!!
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Old 03-17-2015, 09:14 AM   #3041
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Originally Posted by mxnickj View Post
Hey guys, I am at work and getting ready to order some things from A-main and forgot to measure how long of a sensor wire I need. I know the ones that come with the Tekin motors are too short for the 3.0 with the ESC up front but can somebody real quick tell me what length sensor wire I need to reach up front to my ESC? Thanks!!!
I ordered the protek 300mm cable:
PTK-2109 ProTek RC Braided Brushless Motor Sensor Cable (300mm)
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Old 03-17-2015, 02:32 PM   #3042
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Default Losi 8ight RTR vs 3.0 Kit

I was trying to figure out the differences between the 3.0 kit and the latest RTR Losi 8ight. On their website there's a manual and explosion parts view, but it seems to be copied from the kit. I compared all the pics I could find on the web and found these differences (RTR vs KIT):

- plastic shock caps vs aluminium shock caps
- black 6061 chassis vs gold 7075 chassis
- plastic vs aluminium hinge pin braces
- black shock towers vs gold shock towers (not sure about the aluminium grade)

The thing is I can cheaply buy brand new RTR as a roller and make this my second (spare) race car. I have all the electronics, wheels and body. Not sure if it's worth it as that roller was an RTR and I don't love them much as they usually have many parts that need to be upgraded...
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Old 03-19-2015, 02:40 AM   #3043
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Originally Posted by stanson View Post
I was trying to figure out the differences between the 3.0 kit and the latest RTR Losi 8ight. On their website there's a manual and explosion parts view, but it seems to be copied from the kit. I compared all the pics I could find on the web and found these differences (RTR vs KIT):

- plastic shock caps vs aluminium shock caps
- black 6061 chassis vs gold 7075 chassis
- plastic vs aluminium hinge pin braces
- black shock towers vs gold shock towers (not sure about the aluminium grade)

The thing is I can cheaply buy brand new RTR as a roller and make this my second (spare) race car. I have all the electronics, wheels and body. Not sure if it's worth it as that roller was an RTR and I don't love them much as they usually have many parts that need to be upgraded...
I am also very curious as I have already asked this question a month ago and no one replied! Come on TLR guys...help us out here! Promote your brand!

If I get the RTR kit I will mainly bash with it. All the other RTR kits out there just seem like junk, especially the 8.2e. I purchased one not too long ago just to put it back in the box to return it -the QC on that thing was junk: stripped screws, crooked stickers, too much thread lock etc...

I am interested in this 8ight-e RTR version. I heard that they're durable and can take a good beating. I dont mind paying a little extra for an RTR if it is worth it.

Thanks guys
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Old 03-19-2015, 05:47 AM   #3044
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Originally Posted by c00lguy View Post
I am also very curious as I have already asked this question a month ago and no one replied! Come on TLR guys...help us out here! Promote your brand!

If I get the RTR kit I will mainly bash with it. All the other RTR kits out there just seem like junk, especially the 8.2e. I purchased one not too long ago just to put it back in the box to return it -the QC on that thing was junk: stripped screws, crooked stickers, too much thread lock etc...

I am interested in this 8ight-e RTR version. I heard that they're durable and can take a good beating. I dont mind paying a little extra for an RTR if it is worth it.

Thanks guys
Not a Team driver. It is always cheaper in the long run to get a pro kit vs a RTR. Especially after you upgrade everything.
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Old 03-19-2015, 06:47 AM   #3045
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stanson View Post
I was trying to figure out the differences between the 3.0 kit and the latest RTR Losi 8ight. On their website there's a manual and explosion parts view, but it seems to be copied from the kit. I compared all the pics I could find on the web and found these differences (RTR vs KIT):

- plastic shock caps vs aluminium shock caps
- black 6061 chassis vs gold 7075 chassis
- plastic vs aluminium hinge pin braces
- black shock towers vs gold shock towers (not sure about the aluminium grade)

The thing is I can cheaply buy brand new RTR as a roller and make this my second (spare) race car. I have all the electronics, wheels and body. Not sure if it's worth it as that roller was an RTR and I don't love them much as they usually have many parts that need to be upgraded...
Quote:
Originally Posted by c00lguy View Post
I am also very curious as I have already asked this question a month ago and no one replied! Come on TLR guys...help us out here! Promote your brand!

If I get the RTR kit I will mainly bash with it. All the other RTR kits out there just seem like junk, especially the 8.2e. I purchased one not too long ago just to put it back in the box to return it -the QC on that thing was junk: stripped screws, crooked stickers, too much thread lock etc...

I am interested in this 8ight-e RTR version. I heard that they're durable and can take a good beating. I dont mind paying a little extra for an RTR if it is worth it.

Thanks guys
The new RTR kit is pretty good out of the box. You obviously get cheaper parts like the plastic shock caps, the thinner aluminum shock towers, and the thinner chassis. I've seen one guy run his at my local track and it seemed to run ok. If you're looking to bash the thing I'm sure it'll be perfect or even as a spare that you can upgrade a few parts would be ok. I Would buy the kit if you're planning on racing. Because, (deep breath) it has more tuning capabilities, like the shock towers, the adjustable hinge pin inserts, your own esc and motor that you can adjust settings on, and so forth. Just my two cents here guys. Nothing else. Hope it helps. Btw, I run the 8ight 3.0 kit and I LOVE it!!!!!
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