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Old 01-06-2015, 04:32 PM   #2761
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Originally Posted by jpcopeland1 View Post
Casper, and anyone else: what tires are you running indoors when he track starts to dry out a bit? CAr gets floaty, and wheel spins pretty badly. Have typos (no good), Electrons (also no good), and bar codes (so far the best of the bunch). Thinking of trying a set of Panthers, but which ones? Clay is similar to old West Coast RC clay. Also trying to get this Tekin system sorted out. Should I limit more current when the track becomes bad like this?
I am dealing with the same conditions and issues right now. Ran Panther Rattler's and they seemed to be the best. From memory, I am running 2.3 sway bars all around, 8 hole pistons (1.3 front, splits rear), 37.5 oil, silver springs. Camber links at the lowest hole in the towers both front and back. Still not the traction I am looking for though.
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Old 01-06-2015, 10:59 PM   #2762
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Originally Posted by tony oh boy View Post
does anybody run the battery foward on the 3.0e also is there any where in this thread that shows pictures of the mod or talks about it
You need to use JCONCEPTS SILENCER BODY or you can use the stock
TLR 8ight 3.0E body but you need to trim the left hand side vent into flat and cover it with a piece of lexan body cutouts.
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Old 01-06-2015, 11:12 PM   #2763
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Originally Posted by baileyivancic View Post
Hey everyone,
First of all I just want to say that I am new to the forum, and am really excited to be here

Ive had some experience with RC's before having owned a savage flux and now a baja 5b. I recently got a TLR 8ight-E 3.0 and am so excited. This thing handles amazingly and is so fast. Before this I haven't raced any of my cars at a track, but with this kit I will. I just had a couple of questions though.

Firstly, is there a good well-rounded setup in terms of shock springs and oil? My ride hight is good but I'm finding that there isn't much rebound on them. I also need setup that will be good to race with as well. The website for my local track I will be racing on is lrrccc, incase any of you wanted to see it (with the www and .com, just can't post links yet)
Lastly, what is the difference between the two different ackerman plates included in the kit? I know the long one is standard but I just wanted to know what the smaller one would do to the car.

Thanks guys, appreciate it


look on tlr website, the team driver of losi got heaps of set up mainly drake and phend, you gonna love your 8 3.0E as soon you dialed it up! love mine!

http://www.tlracing.com/Products/Def...002#prodSetups
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Old 01-07-2015, 06:33 AM   #2764
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can someone tell me or post a link of what metal spur i need if i want to go that route...

This isnt pertaining to the car itself, but if im running a mm2 with eiher a 2200/2650 and a spektrum s6100 servo, will i need an external bec??

thanks
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Old 01-07-2015, 03:05 PM   #2765
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Hey guys picked up a couple cars (8ight 3.0, SCTE 2.0, and 22-4) to get back into it. Decided to go with TLR, since I raced with them (original JRX2) back in the day (25 years ago).

What things should i look for on my E3.0 since it's used? Thanks
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Old 01-07-2015, 03:10 PM   #2766
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Originally Posted by towertsk View Post
Hey guys picked up a couple cars (8ight 3.0, SCTE 2.0, and 22-4) to get back into it. Decided to go with TLR, since I raced with them (original JRX2) back in the day (25 years ago).

What things should i look for on my E3.0 since it's used? Thanks
Bearings, bent hinge pins, spur gear, rebuild the diffs, shock fluid. The usual stuff.
Only way to be totally sure is to completely tear it down.
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Old 01-07-2015, 03:14 PM   #2767
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Originally Posted by jpcopeland1 View Post
Bearings, bent hinge pins, spur gear, rebuild the diffs, shock fluid. The usual stuff.
Only way to be totally sure is to completely tear it down.
When rebuilding the diffs do you use motor spray to clean all the metal parts or is wiping them down good enough? I'll need to pick up some fluid. How long in between diff rebuilds? Thanks for tip. Can't wait to get this dialed!
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Old 01-07-2015, 10:33 PM   #2768
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When rebuilding the diffs do you use motor spray to clean all the metal parts or is wiping them down good enough? I'll need to pick up some fluid. How long in between diff rebuilds? Thanks for tip. Can't wait to get this dialed!
Motor spray. As far as diffs go, I would take a look after 8-9 full Rae days.
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Old 01-08-2015, 11:30 AM   #2769
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Originally Posted by TLR_TeknoRC View Post
look on tlr website, the team driver of losi got heaps of set up mainly drake and phend, you gonna love your 8 3.0E as soon you dialed it up! love mine!

http://www.tlracing.com/Products/Def...002#prodSetups
is it any difference in buggy handling using Standard TLR body or JConcepts Silencer body?
If it is, which is best on outdoor loose and rough track?
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Old 01-08-2015, 07:24 PM   #2770
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Originally Posted by hardijs View Post
is it any difference in buggy handling using Standard TLR body or JConcepts Silencer body?
If it is, which is best on outdoor loose and rough track?
Jconcept silencer is better if you modified your battery tray setup(forward) and more cab forward body, the TLR stock body is good on cornering because of the panel or fin at the back of the cab.
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Old 01-08-2015, 07:28 PM   #2771
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Quote:
Originally Posted by towertsk View Post
Hey guys picked up a couple cars (8ight 3.0, SCTE 2.0, and 22-4) to get back into it. Decided to go with TLR, since I raced with them (original JRX2) back in the day (25 years ago).

What things should i look for on my E3.0 since it's used? Thanks
Way to go! you will love the E3.0, I hope you still got the manual/book too, just go with the stock setup and your good to go.
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Old 01-09-2015, 04:23 AM   #2772
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Originally Posted by TLR_TeknoRC View Post
Jconcept silencer is better if you modified your battery tray setup(forward) and more cab forward body, the TLR stock body is good on cornering because of the panel or fin at the back of the cab.
Ok, thanks for info!
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Old 01-09-2015, 06:14 PM   #2773
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Hey guys what pinion do I want with the stock 43 tooth spur with a tekin 1900kv motor.
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Old 01-09-2015, 06:47 PM   #2774
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A brother needs help.....
I just installed the electronics and for whatever reason this Castle 2650 motor doesn't work . When I line up the pinion to the spur, the set screw won't hit the flat spot on the motor shaft. If I flip the pinion the other way, the motor shaft isn't long enough and the set screw will only touch the very edge of it.....

This is a picture of the pinion lined up with the spur....the set screw passes the flat spot on the motor shaft....and you can see if I were to flip the pinion around the shaft wouldn't be long enough for the set screw to get a nice bite....

Anyway to solve this issue??
Thanks...
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Old 01-09-2015, 06:48 PM   #2775
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This is the pinion lined up the other way.....
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