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Old 01-03-2015, 08:41 PM   #2746
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Originally Posted by NickTheGreek View Post
Quick question......

I built the kit as shown in the manual....Basically going by all the pictures..
Everything went together great...The rear diff housing was a bit of a pain to line up n close,especially after I greased the gears....
Anyway...After everything went together I went back n noticed how it says something about shimming the rear diff for a better mesh. (Not shown in diagrams)
How are you exactly supposed to shim it???(I don't quite understand the discription in the manual) ....And if I leave it as is, will I have issues??

I don't get why they just didn't add that in the pictures and steps of the rear diff build.
2 .25 shims on the left, 1 .25, and 1 .10 shim on the right. You need to measure them with calipers to get the size right.


EN The 8IGHT-E 3.0 kit comes with (2) .25mm shims on the left side bearing insert and (1) .25mm shim as well as (1) .10mm shim on the right side bearing insert. We advise this gear mesh with your new vehicle.
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Old 01-03-2015, 09:28 PM   #2747
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Just bought my first buggy after 4 years of SC 4x4. Have the 3.0 e RTR. Is it my imagination or does this servo suck?
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Old 01-04-2015, 08:51 AM   #2748
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Originally Posted by buster8787 View Post
Just bought my first buggy after 4 years of SC 4x4. Have the 3.0 e RTR. Is it my imagination or does this servo suck?

Didn't know there was a 3.0E RTR. But as usual with most RTRs stock servos suck.
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Old 01-04-2015, 09:39 AM   #2749
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Just bought my first buggy after 4 years of SC 4x4. Have the 3.0 e RTR. Is it my imagination or does this servo suck?
It sucks.
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Old 01-04-2015, 09:43 AM   #2750
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Second race with mine, ran into an out of control Mugen driver who somehow managed to law dart his car at such an angle that it hit mine behind the front shock tower taking out the front gearbox where the tower mounts. Now normally I would wonder if the part was not beefy enough to take front end hits, but this dude was full bore about 8 feet in the air and did a brake slam which cause his car to pitch straight into the front of mine. I'm suprised more stuff didn't break on it. Car is beasty. Love it. With that said I will be stocking up in front gearboxes.
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Old 01-04-2015, 09:48 AM   #2751
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Originally Posted by jpcopeland1 View Post
Second race with mine, ran into an out of control Mugen driver who somehow managed to law dart his car at such an angle that it hit mine behind the front shock tower taking out the front gearbox where the tower mounts. Now normally I would wonder if the part was not beefy enough to take front end hits, but this dude was full bore about 8 feet in the air and did a brake slam which cause his car to pitch straight into the front of mine. I'm suprised more stuff didn't break on it. Car is beasty. Love it. With that said I will be stocking up in front gearboxes.
1.0/2.0 gearboxes fit. Actually what is on mine. I would use a longer screw in the top plate that goes in the gear box as well as a nut on the screws that go through the tower and gearbox. Hope these ideas work. Make sure your tower and shock shafts arent bent as well.
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Old 01-04-2015, 10:50 AM   #2752
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Didn't know there was a 3.0E RTR. But as usual with most RTRs stock servos suck.
Yes there is, think it's new this year. Has a yellow body. Thinking of taking the servo out of my SC. It's much faster
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Old 01-04-2015, 07:49 PM   #2753
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I wish TLR would group their bags better in the kits. Thought I was missing washers so I purchased more. Then found the rest of them with the wing. Not sure how or why that happens but it seems like they should be better than that.
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Old 01-04-2015, 08:06 PM   #2754
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NickTheGreek View Post
Quick question......

I built the kit as shown in the manual....Basically going by all the pictures..
Everything went together great...The rear diff housing was a bit of a pain to line up n close,especially after I greased the gears....
Anyway...After everything went together I went back n noticed how it says something about shimming the rear diff for a better mesh. (Not shown in diagrams)
How are you exactly supposed to shim it???(I don't quite understand the discription in the manual) ....And if I leave it as is, will I have issues??

I don't get why they just didn't add that in the pictures and steps of the rear diff build.
I typically see about two shims to move the diff closer to the pinon. You may not run into issues right away but it is usually a good thing to be on the safer side and check it. Basically you want to shim the diff until it is tight against the pinion and then take away a shim. The rear diff takes a bit more abuse than the front diff due to weight transfer under acceleration and it is possible to strip the rear ring and pinion over time. It is quite unlikely it will happen right away if you do not go fix it but as the parts break in over time it may cause a problem.
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Old 01-04-2015, 08:21 PM   #2755
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Default No rebound

I've been running my 8ight e 3.0 for about a year and I still get very little rebound from my shocks. I have to have the springs torqued down to get any kind of real ride hight. Any suggestions?
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Old 01-04-2015, 08:32 PM   #2756
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does anybody run the battery foward on the 3.0e also is there any where in this thread that shows pictures of the mod or talks about it
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Old 01-04-2015, 09:41 PM   #2757
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Originally Posted by Casper View Post
I typically see about two shims to move the diff closer to the pinon. You may not run into issues right away but it is usually a good thing to be on the safer side and check it. Basically you want to shim the diff until it is tight against the pinion and then take away a shim. The rear diff takes a bit more abuse than the front diff due to weight transfer under acceleration and it is possible to strip the rear ring and pinion over time. It is quite unlikely it will happen right away if you do not go fix it but as the parts break in over time it may cause a problem.
Thanks for that explanation...I appreciate it.

Being that I just build it, (and everything is so nice) I really don't wanna take it apart,although I probably should.....
I'll just run it for a while and when I get in one of those moods to "tinker", I'll just do it up right.
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Old 01-05-2015, 07:59 AM   #2758
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Originally Posted by Casper View Post
I typically see about two shims to move the diff closer to the pinon. You may not run into issues right away but it is usually a good thing to be on the safer side and check it. Basically you want to shim the diff until it is tight against the pinion and then take away a shim. The rear diff takes a bit more abuse than the front diff due to weight transfer under acceleration and it is possible to strip the rear ring and pinion over time. It is quite unlikely it will happen right away if you do not go fix it but as the parts break in over time it may cause a problem.
Casper, and anyone else: what tires are you running indoors when he track starts to dry out a bit? CAr gets floaty, and wheel spins pretty badly. Have typos (no good), Electrons (also no good), and bar codes (so far the best of the bunch). Thinking of trying a set of Panthers, but which ones? Clay is similar to old West Coast RC clay. Also trying to get this Tekin system sorted out. Should I limit more current when the track becomes bad like this?
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Old 01-05-2015, 08:48 PM   #2759
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Hey everyone,
First of all I just want to say that I am new to the forum, and am really excited to be here

Ive had some experience with RC's before having owned a savage flux and now a baja 5b. I recently got a TLR 8ight-E 3.0 and am so excited. This thing handles amazingly and is so fast. Before this I haven't raced any of my cars at a track, but with this kit I will. I just had a couple of questions though.

Firstly, is there a good well-rounded setup in terms of shock springs and oil? My ride hight is good but I'm finding that there isn't much rebound on them. I also need setup that will be good to race with as well. The website for my local track I will be racing on is lrrccc, incase any of you wanted to see it (with the www and .com, just can't post links yet)
Lastly, what is the difference between the two different ackerman plates included in the kit? I know the long one is standard but I just wanted to know what the smaller one would do to the car.

Thanks guys, appreciate it
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Old 01-06-2015, 07:43 AM   #2760
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Originally Posted by baileyivancic View Post
Hey everyone,
First of all I just want to say that I am new to the forum, and am really excited to be here

Ive had some experience with RC's before having owned a savage flux and now a baja 5b. I recently got a TLR 8ight-E 3.0 and am so excited. This thing handles amazingly and is so fast. Before this I haven't raced any of my cars at a track, but with this kit I will. I just had a couple of questions though.

Firstly, is there a good well-rounded setup in terms of shock springs and oil? My ride hight is good but I'm finding that there isn't much rebound on them. I also need setup that will be good to race with as well. The website for my local track I will be racing on is lrrccc, incase any of you wanted to see it (with the www and .com, just can't post links yet)
Lastly, what is the difference between the two different ackerman plates included in the kit? I know the long one is standard but I just wanted to know what the smaller one would do to the car.

Thanks guys, appreciate it
The kit setup should get you really close. I have been running it all last season but mostly high bite indoor or blue groove tracks.

If you are running at a more typical outdoor track, Drakes outdoor setup may be more suitable though.

http://www.tlracing.com/Products/Def...002#prodSetups

The short ackerman plate will make the steering feel much more aggressive.
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