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Old 12-20-2014, 08:22 AM   #2701
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Originally Posted by dynamiteracer View Post
The stock ESC and motor combo in the RTR are some of the most under rated products on the market. Collin Weatherholt has been using them for almost two years without any issues. They have good power are smooth without any cogging and are plenty fast enough to get the job done. Personally I feel many of the systems are just overkill.
I'm sure its a great, what you were saying about most other systems is true they are overkill, your really only need like a 1900kv if anything you can gear up...
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Old 12-20-2014, 11:47 AM   #2702
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The stock ESC and motor combo in the RTR are some of the most under rated products on the market. Collin Weatherholt has been using them for almost two years without any issues. They have good power are smooth without any cogging and are plenty fast enough to get the job done. Personally I feel many of the systems are just overkill.
But overkill can be so fun. Im sure it would be great in the RTR, but when your other 3 cars have Rx8 G2 Combos you might as well have all 4 the same
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Old 12-20-2014, 02:34 PM   #2703
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Im curious what the > http://www.amain.com/team-losi-racin...arrier/p275033
do you use this for indoor or outdoor? Can you let me know if I just add the caster blocks, or do I change anything else besides ? I was going to move the Batt. forward but my car is working well and did not want to fool with it. But... if it can be better.... Hummmmmm Anything to help me beat the local 13 year old fast guys. LOL
I shimmed the caster block center of the a arm. I race on the track that ROAR E NATS was hosted. The setup works great through the sweepers, off cambers and tight 180s... I have my setup posted soon, been real busy.
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Old 12-21-2014, 07:36 PM   #2704
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hello everyone,
just got back in the game after two years off! I recently purchased a new 3.0 e buggy from the lhs and have a few questions. I know some of these questions are in the thread but I really don't have time to spend on rctech like I used to.
1. plastic spur gear. change to metal spur gear? or run it stock? 1900kv
2. are there any must have upgrades needed to make the buggy reliable?
3. what size pinion will I need for tekin 1900kv? medium size track
4. what is the best stearing servo for 1/8 buggy these days?
5. shock setup (pistions/oils) my local track is super hard packed, high grip, big jumps. a lot of bottoming out.

thank you guys, I am very exited to run this buggy.
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Old 12-21-2014, 08:30 PM   #2705
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hello everyone,
just got back in the game after two years off! I recently purchased a new 3.0 e buggy from the lhs and have a few questions. I know some of these questions are in the thread but I really don't have time to spend on rctech like I used to.
1. plastic spur gear. change to metal spur gear? or run it stock? 1900kv Metal 45
2. are there any must have upgrades needed to make the buggy reliable? Aluminum servo saver top
3. what size pinion will I need for tekin 1900kv? medium size track14-15 with 45 spur gear
4. what is the best stearing servo for 1/8 buggy these days? Spektrum 6090
5. shock setup (pistions/oils) my local track is super hard packed, high grip, big jumps. a lot of bottoming out.Front stock 5 hole w/37.5 TLR oil, Rear stock 5 hole w/32.5 TLR oil



thank you guys, I am very exited to run this buggy.
Hope this helps!! Answers are by your questions.
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Old 12-22-2014, 10:14 AM   #2706
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Default standart 3.0e body vs JC "Silencer" 3.0e body

Is it any difference how buggy handles if using standart TLR 3.0e body or JC "Silencer" 3.0e body?
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Old 12-22-2014, 09:22 PM   #2707
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After being out if the scene for awhile I purchased a TLR 3.0 (nitro) to slowly build.
During this time I purchased a TLR 3.0e to practice with. I finally got a chance to run it today. I am pretty impressed so far. I drove a TKI3e today it was very planted compared to the 3.0. However, I have not had much time to dial in the 3.0.

A few guys locally are running the Kyosho springs (light blue) on the 3.0. Do any of you have any experience running the Kyosho springs? I'd like some feedback on this.
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Old 12-24-2014, 06:46 AM   #2708
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I shimmed the caster block center of the a arm. I race on the track that ROAR E NATS was hosted. The setup works great through the sweepers, off cambers and tight 180s... I have my setup posted soon, been real busy.
This may be what mine needs. I run on a wet tight indoor clay track and the car seems just a tad bit lazy. Basically using box stock setup. Should I drop sway bars as well? Front seems super stiff.
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Old 12-24-2014, 07:23 AM   #2709
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This may be what mine needs. I run on a wet tight indoor clay track and the car seems just a tad bit lazy. Basically using box stock setup. Should I drop sway bars as well? Front seems super stiff.
I wouldnt change to the truggy casters for indoors. They make the car push. If the car feels lazy trying shorting the rear camberlink and go to a lower hole on the tower. Lower rear diff will help like 3k. 2.3 bars all around. Brass weight in the car. Hope these ideas help.
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Old 12-24-2014, 07:35 AM   #2710
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I run the short steering rack. Turns quick and I can get under guy's. I run 5/7/2
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Old 12-24-2014, 10:29 AM   #2711
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I wouldnt change to the truggy casters for indoors. They make the car push. If the car feels lazy trying shorting the rear camberlink and go to a lower hole on the tower. Lower rear diff will help like 3k. 2.3 bars all around. Brass weight in the car. Hope these ideas help.
Sounds like a solid start. @ 5-7-3, changing roll bars now. What is this brass you speak of? Part number? Found it, the 40 grams for the front end, looks exactly like what it needs, also picked up some rear green springs. Will be running 35/35 for shock oil. Should be better. Not that it sucks now, its the best handling buggy I have driven at that track. Just needs a bit of fine tuning.
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Old 12-24-2014, 11:13 AM   #2712
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Originally Posted by jpcopeland1 View Post
Sounds like a solid start. @ 5-7-3, changing roll bars now. What is this brass you speak of? Part number? Found it, the 40 grams for the front end, looks exactly like what it needs, also picked up some rear green springs. Will be running 35/35 for shock oil. Should be better. Not that it sucks now, its the best handling buggy I have driven at that track. Just needs a bit of fine tuning.
I would use stock springs. Green rears make the car push as well. Try 32.5/30 oils
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Old 12-24-2014, 12:39 PM   #2713
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Sounds like a solid start. @ 5-7-3, changing roll bars now. What is this brass you speak of? Part number? Found it, the 40 grams for the front end, looks exactly like what it needs, also picked up some rear green springs. Will be running 35/35 for shock oil. Should be better. Not that it sucks now, its the best handling buggy I have driven at that track. Just needs a bit of fine tuning.
Jc, Collin runs the truggy castor with the brass, rear green springs, 5 7 2 in the diff's short rear camber link in the lower hole rear, 35 30 wt oils with stock pistons. We have found the green springs and truggy castor gives more steering. I'm not sure how a softer spring in the rear would make the car turn better.
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Old 12-24-2014, 04:28 PM   #2714
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Jc, Collin runs the truggy castor with the brass, rear green springs, 5 7 2 in the diff's short rear camber link in the lower hole rear, 35 30 wt oils with stock pistons. We have found the green springs and truggy castor gives more steering. I'm not sure how a softer spring in the rear would make the car turn better.
Well normally a softer rear spring wouldn't allow the car to steer, if anything it should take steering away. I can try various setups and see which one I like best. Picked up a set of Gold Bar Codes and AKA red foams, They suck at the track at the beginning, but its the tire that was recommended to me by the owner. Once broken in they should be awesome. All of the fast guys run them no matter what E-Buggy they are on, just takes forever and a day to hit the sweet spot, but once there tires usually last about 2 months of 3 times a week track time. May have to break out the Sticky Kicks the first few runs.
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Old 12-24-2014, 04:33 PM   #2715
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Well normally a softer rear spring wouldn't allow the car to steer, if anything it should take steering away. I can try various setups and see which one I like best. Picked up a set of Gold Bar Codes and AKA red foams, They suck at the track at the beginning, but its the tire that was recommended to me by the owner. Once broken in they should be awesome. All of the fast guys run them no matter what E-Buggy they are on, just takes forever and a day to hit the sweet spot, but once there tires usually last about 2 months of 3 times a week track time. May have to break out the Sticky Kicks the first few runs.
We found the Barcodes to be inconsistent. The best to date tires for indoors are the Pro-Line Electrons.
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