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Old 09-16-2014, 02:45 PM   #2536
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I called Horizon and they are sending me out a new universal. Should I change fromthe stock plastic 43 spur to a metal 45 pinion is that whaf everyone is doing.
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Old 09-18-2014, 08:22 AM   #2537
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Originally Posted by patrick lsp View Post
Anyone running the battery forward and esc in back? Advantage disadvantage?

on my 3.0 E, i'd modify my batt box check the pics
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Old 09-18-2014, 11:19 AM   #2538
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Yes I'm using this for rear and the old rear for the front
What do you mean by "the old rear" ?
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Old 09-27-2014, 02:42 PM   #2539
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Any detailed info on th rtr? The parts explosion seems to be a direct copy from the kit, different from pictures and description.
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Old 09-27-2014, 03:54 PM   #2540
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So, who can tell me the disadvantages vs advantages to moving the ESC to the back vs say having it up front..

last time I ran it, the car was very good with stock configurations. just wondering what the car will do to making that change to the car?

Thanks.
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Old 10-01-2014, 01:37 PM   #2541
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Just found the newest Setup of Mayfields 8ight-E, and was wondering, what "8ight-T 3.o castor blocks spaced forward" means...???

Any suggestions? ;-)



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Old 10-01-2014, 01:53 PM   #2542
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Originally Posted by Tarimon View Post
Just found the newest Setup of Mayfields 8ight-E, and was wondering, what "8ight-T 3.o castor blocks spaced forward" means...???

Any suggestions? ;-)



.
I've run the 3.0T caster blocks on the 3.0 but since the 3.0T caster blocks are not as wide as the buggy caster blocks you have to add shims. Shims in the back pushing the caster blocks forward against the front of the a-arm. Once you actually have the parts in front you it will all make sense. These help with smaller tracks if I remember correctly from when I tried them.
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Old 10-01-2014, 02:26 PM   #2543
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Originally Posted by C.Capelo View Post
I've run the 3.0T caster blocks on the 3.0 but since the 3.0T caster blocks are not as wide as the buggy caster blocks you have to add shims. Shims in the back pushing the caster blocks forward against the front of the a-arm. Once you actually have the parts in front you it will all make sense. These help with smaller tracks if I remember correctly from when I tried them.

Okay, thank you...
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Old 10-06-2014, 11:27 AM   #2544
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TLR_TeknoRC View Post
on my 3.0 E, i'd modify my batt box check the pics
I know some sponsored drivers who have done thing, and not saying you it doesn't work for you, but I know they weren't liking it that much...
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Old 10-06-2014, 11:29 AM   #2545
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C.Capelo View Post
I've run the 3.0T caster blocks on the 3.0 but since the 3.0T caster blocks are not as wide as the buggy caster blocks you have to add shims. Shims in the back pushing the caster blocks forward against the front of the a-arm. Once you actually have the parts in front you it will all make sense. These help with smaller tracks if I remember correctly from when I tried them.
Im pretty sure to did it to help in the bumps... Don't quote me on they, but that's what I heard???
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Old 10-06-2014, 12:33 PM   #2546
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I know some sponsored drivers who have done thing, and not saying you it doesn't work for you, but I know they weren't liking it that much...
Im not sponsored by tlr. I didnt change any other aspect of my setup besides the tray and hated it. I switched mine back after two packs. Just wasnt stable obviously changing the whole setup might help. It seemed the reverse tray is favored by those who are use to the nitro car. So adam drake and maifield. I currently run the normal tray layout with a 430 gram battery and like that best.
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Old 10-06-2014, 04:16 PM   #2547
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I just picked up a used 3.0e.....it has a 43t plastic center diff gear...and a HUGE pinion...and a 2650kv motor...looks like someone just bashed it around and set it up to run 100mph...

For the metal 45T spur....is it Losi part number 3552....(mod 1?)

http://www.amain.com/Losi-Mod-1-Cent...ar-45T/p134098

I also plan on picking up some pinions to figure out the gearing....14t,15t and 16t pinions...it's got a 17 on it now..... wow...

******>>>> I was planning to run 4s....but is a 2650kv a 3s motor?


Here's a video of our new track layout...anybody want to suggest a pinion/spur/cell-count for that 2650 tekin T8 that's in it.....


https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=764059023650461


Also...one more question...the internal BEC in this Tekin does not like the Spektrum S8000 servo with my Futaba R603FS receiver....like it has a brownout if I move the steering fast....but with an external BEC it works great...Do you guys run external BEC's or Capacitors when you see this happen? Or should my RX8G2 esc's BEC be enough? I was planning on putting in a Castle BEC and pulling the red wire from the esc plug unless you have a better solution....I have the castle BEC already from planes...


I'm glad to be back in 1/8....it's been 5 or 6 years since I ran it...with the first 8ight nitro when it first came out and for about a year after...
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Old 10-06-2014, 04:32 PM   #2548
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Bivens!!!
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Old 10-06-2014, 04:37 PM   #2549
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Yep...it's me. Drive in the winter...fly in the summer....but you wouldn't know what winter is... I missed seeing you at Nall this year...
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Old 10-06-2014, 08:02 PM   #2550
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One more question....

years back when I raced 1/8 we measured droop by the "up-travel" or difference in ride height from settled to "wheels-just-touching"....as the difference in mm between these two ride heights....

On the setup sheets I see TLR drivers measuring something different....(over 100mm)...I presume this is shock length at full extension. Is this center-to-center of the mounting bolts or overall length? This is how I measure it on 1/10 vehicles without droop screws...never done this before on 1/8...

Can anyone post a simple explanation of how the setup sheets are measuring this droop number?
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