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Old 08-19-2014, 07:07 PM   #2401
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Originally Posted by TahoeDust View Post
It's pretty big...



I bought the buggy used and it came with the 2050. I have a 1800 in my 8ight-t I could try in my buggy if the 2050 is too much.
That is one wicked looking track.
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Old 08-19-2014, 09:05 PM   #2402
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That dirt looks exactly like the dirt we have out my local track. Hard packed and when its wet pretty dang hooked up.
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Old 08-19-2014, 09:11 PM   #2403
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The 2050 set at it's lowest is still too much motor.... get a 1900 Unless you drive on a Monster track
I tend to disagree. I love my 2050, plenty of power when I need it. Some races can get close and on a big straight with a drag race to the end...ill take my 2050. Most guys at our track run a 1900, which definetly suites our track because its a bit smaller. Running the 2050 has taught me to be very smooth on the throttle as well. Too each his own!
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Old 08-19-2014, 09:14 PM   #2404
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Anyone how important is the discharge rate C? How high a rating do I actually need? Does this affect how long the battery last?
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Most get 50c - 90c, but not needed. I see pros run 5000mah 30c - 35c with 1900kv motors on the largest tracks around the SE, u get longer run time with lower c rating. If your battery runs too hot, you may need to get a higher discharge rate battery or lower esc settings.

Last edited by Razorbelly; 08-19-2014 at 11:10 PM.
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Old 08-19-2014, 10:05 PM   #2405
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Here's a copy and paste that may help.? For starters, the C in C Rating stands for capacity. The C rating is the maximum safe continuous discharge rate of a pack. If you see 10C on your battery, it means it can be discharged at 10 times that pack's capacity. Capacity refers to the milliamp-hour rating of the battery, which will be listed as a number followed by mAh (2000mAh).

Here's the easy way to find your battery's discharge rate just multiply the number from the C rating by the pack's capacity. Keep in mind that 1000 milliamps equals one amp. Here's an example, using an 11.1V 2000mAh 10C

11.1 volt 2000mAh -10C
2000 milliamps = 2 amps
2 Amps x 10 = 20 amps continuous discharge

This means that you can safely draw up to 20 amps continuously from that 11.1V 2000mAh 10C without doing damage to your battery.

My self, I run 6700MAH at 100C
6700 = 6.7 amps X 100C = 670 amps continuously. Keep in mind this is over kill. I doubt I am even capable of pushing that many amps through my Gen2 and 1900. At best I would be lucky to pull 180 amps out of a pack at full throttle. In short I am not stressing my pack at all.
I am skeptical of C ratings personally. My guess is I am able to pull around 150 amps?

Now lets say I am able to pull 180 amps from my pack with my esc motor combo?
A 5000MAH 30C would not be safe to run with out stressing the pack if I am able to pull 180 amps.

5000 = 5 amps X 30C = 150 amps.

In short a 30c pack would not last very long. Yet at 150 amps it would be the minimum I could run with out stressing the battery.

To sum it up you need to know how much draw your ESC motor combo can pull from the pack before you can find the minimum C rating or weight of pack you are looking to dial in for.
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Old 08-19-2014, 11:00 PM   #2406
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That is one wicked looking track.
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That looks like Tally...
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Old 08-19-2014, 11:04 PM   #2407
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Originally Posted by Razorbelly View Post
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That looks like Tally...
Indeed it is. I actually have not run the track since it was all redone a few years ago. I am just getting back into things. Just converted my 8ight-T to brushless and picked up a 8ight 3.0 E. Hopefully I will get a chance to get out there this weekend and see what's what.

Are you in Tally?
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Old 08-19-2014, 11:09 PM   #2408
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Originally Posted by TahoeDust View Post
Indeed it is. I actually have not run the track since it was all redone a few years ago. I am just getting back into things. Just converted my 8ight-T to brushless and picked up a 8ight 3.0 E. Hopefully I will get a chance to get out there this weekend and see what's what.

Are you in Tally?
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Old 08-20-2014, 05:19 AM   #2409
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Now that I have had some track time with my 3.0 - two race days (just getting into this), I have experience the same part failure three times and I am not sure what is causing it. Specifically, the shock shaft has popped out of the shock end causing the spring retainer and spring to come off. This has happened twice on a rear shock and once on a front shock.

Yes, the shocks were assembled correctly. What would cause this? My droop is about 100 in front and 110 in the rear. Is this too much? Could the landings be too rough?
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Old 08-20-2014, 05:50 AM   #2410
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Originally Posted by cdraughon View Post
Now that I have had some track time with my 3.0 - two race days (just getting into this), I have experience the same part failure three times and I am not sure what is causing it. Specifically, the shock shaft has popped out of the shock end causing the spring retainer and spring to come off. This has happened twice on a rear shock and once on a front shock.

Yes, the shocks were assembled correctly. What would cause this? My droop is about 100 in front and 110 in the rear. Is this too much? Could the landings be too rough?
Are you putting a little locktite on the screw that holds the piston to the shaft?
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Old 08-20-2014, 05:54 AM   #2411
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Originally Posted by cdraughon View Post
Now that I have had some track time with my 3.0 - two race days (just getting into this), I have experience the same part failure three times and I am not sure what is causing it. Specifically, the shock shaft has popped out of the shock end causing the spring retainer and spring to come off. This has happened twice on a rear shock and once on a front shock.

Yes, the shocks were assembled correctly. What would cause this? My droop is about 100 in front and 110 in the rear. Is this too much? Could the landings be too rough?
The shock shift is pulling out of the shock shafts end where it mounts to the a arm? Are you limiting the droop at all with the droop screw?
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Old 08-20-2014, 06:44 AM   #2412
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The shock shift is pulling out of the shock shafts end where it mounts to the a arm? Are you limiting the droop at all with the droop screw?
He already indicates his droop settings.

It is not a droop issue it is the actual part. The shock ends are soft and the threads become compressed causing the pull out.
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Old 08-20-2014, 06:58 AM   #2413
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Call Horizon Hobby customer service and they will take care of you. Make sure you bottom out the shaft into the eyelet. Seen lots just thread it on till it covers the threads but it will thread in several turns more from there. Hope this helps.
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Old 08-20-2014, 07:00 AM   #2414
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Is anyone running the Jconcepts carbon fiber towers on their 3.0e?
If so whats your thoughts as to advantage or disadvantage?
I picked up a set and they look really pretty and are beafy. Have not installed yet.
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Old 08-20-2014, 07:12 AM   #2415
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Originally Posted by UN4RACING View Post
Here's a copy and paste that may help.? For starters, the C in C Rating stands for capacity. The C rating is the maximum safe continuous discharge rate of a pack. If you see 10C on your battery, it means it can be discharged at 10 times that pack's capacity. Capacity refers to the milliamp-hour rating of the battery, which will be listed as a number followed by mAh (2000mAh).

Here's the easy way to find your battery's discharge rate just multiply the number from the C rating by the pack's capacity. Keep in mind that 1000 milliamps equals one amp. Here's an example, using an 11.1V 2000mAh 10C

11.1 volt 2000mAh -10C
2000 milliamps = 2 amps
2 Amps x 10 = 20 amps continuous discharge

This means that you can safely draw up to 20 amps continuously from that 11.1V 2000mAh 10C without doing damage to your battery.

My self, I run 6700MAH at 100C
6700 = 6.7 amps X 100C = 670 amps continuously. Keep in mind this is over kill. I doubt I am even capable of pushing that many amps through my Gen2 and 1900. At best I would be lucky to pull 180 amps out of a pack at full throttle. In short I am not stressing my pack at all.
I am skeptical of C ratings personally. My guess is I am able to pull around 150 amps?

Now lets say I am able to pull 180 amps from my pack with my esc motor combo?
A 5000MAH 30C would not be safe to run with out stressing the pack if I am able to pull 180 amps.

5000 = 5 amps X 30C = 150 amps.

In short a 30c pack would not last very long. Yet at 150 amps it would be the minimum I could run with out stressing the battery.

To sum it up you need to know how much draw your ESC motor combo can pull from the pack before you can find the minimum C rating or weight of pack you are looking to dial in for.
This is the kind of post that, while the information may be literally true, the content is not helpful in answering the question. It actually confuses people who are starting out and may take the amp ratings literally.

The reason it is not helpful is the disconnect between continuous C ratings and the actual current draw of a car in racing conditions. Yes, the ESC may be rated at 120 amps continuous, but you never see 120 amps continuous in a race. Yes the motor may be rated for 100 amps continuous (with adequate cooling, but you never see 100 amps continuous in a RC car.

Point of fact: if a 1/8th buggy was drawing 100 amp continuous, you could only race 3 minutes on a 5000 mAHr pack. Yet many people get 10-15 minutes on a 5000 mAH pack and still have something left in the battery. I know from experience (in recharging a pack after a timed run) that my first E8 with a Neu 1512 motor drew an average of 18 amps over a 10 minute run. So even though that motor was rated at many thousands of watts, it was drawing less than 300 watts on average.

The continuous C rating and the motor ESC amp ratings are essentially irrelevant when looking at how many amps your motor/esc/car can draw. For two years I ran my E-8 on a Thunder Power 4300 mAHr 25C pack. Any high quality 40C-50C rated pack of reasonable capacity (4000-6000) should be sufficient for the current setups in E-8s.

Last edited by ta_man; 08-20-2014 at 06:16 PM.
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