1LikesTLR 8IGHT E 3.0 THREAD
08-15-2014, 10:28 AM
#2372
08-15-2014, 10:37 AM
#2373
The front end will be really stiff once you put the droop screw in and will bind up with the hinge pin. I use a 4.2mm chainsaw sharpening tool and it woks perfectly, zero binding....
And don't use the supplied shock oil....
08-16-2014, 01:08 AM
#2375
I'm looking for 5-40 blue anodized aluminium locknuts.... Does someone know where could I find some?
08-16-2014, 09:12 PM
#2376
New to Buggy. Purchasing 8ight E
Could someone tell me what 4s batteries most racers run in this Ebuggy? Is 5s or 6s used? I have no clue where to start since I'm new to electric. I'm planning on running the tekin rx8 combo 1900 or 2050kv motor.
08-17-2014, 04:17 AM
#2378
Let me help
Run a 4 cell as its Legal at all tracks . All you need is somewhere near 5000 Mah anything else is Heavy and Not needed. The RX8 / 1900 is what you want or even try a Hobbywing ESC its half the price and works awesome. Gear it with a 14 tooth pinion for small track or go to 15 T pinion for a larger track.
08-17-2014, 07:06 AM
#2379
Some setups have droop and some have shock length is this the same thing?
08-17-2014, 07:28 AM
#2380
Yes
Yes it's measured from center of top nut to bottom center of screw while car is lifted in air wheels off ground.
Suspension droop is defined as the amount of downward suspension movement there is in the wheels of a vehicle. The base measuring point for this droop can either be the chassis or the ride height of the car.
It is responsible for keeping the wheels in contact with the ground (or not!) when the front/rear of the truck rises or falls - like going into a corner, braking/accelerating or going over bumps.
More droop obviously allows for more wheel travel to keep the tires in contact with the track surface, but this is at the cost of agility - the car will not change direction as quickly.
The general rule of thumb with droop would be to have just enough to cope with the track you are racing at and no more. You must also consider the affect that the damping and springing on the car has
with increased droop as they have to be able to react quickly enough to move the wheel in and out of any holes, etc.
How to adjust:
Step 1: With only the bottm of the shocks attached, the droop screws raised all the way, and the chassis above your working surface so the arms are at full extension, you should be able to easily slide the top of your shock over the standoff screw, while leaving the shock at full extension. If the mounting hole of the shock cap is above or below the standoff/mount screw, adjust the droop screw accordingly ( to make the fully extended shock at the cap meet up with it mounting screw). Repeat for all four corners of your vehicle. Measure from the center of the top standoff screw to the center of the bottom shock mounting screw to get your FULL Droop setting. As a guide the Front shocks should be 109mm, while the rear shocks should be 127.5.
Step 2: To increase your droop turn the droop screw(from the top) counter-clockwise (loosen), turn the droop screw (from the top) clockwise (tighten) to decrease your droop. Remember, never back the screw out beyond full droop or you could risk damage to your vehicle.
*As stated from the Team associated manual (Truggy adjustment for example but applicable for all vehicles)
Front droop: Increasing front droop will increase off-throttle steering. It also allows the front end to lift more, giving more rear grip and less front grip on-power. Decreasing front droop yields more on-power steering and quicker response at the expense of some stability in bumpy sections. It will also give less off-throttle steering.
Rear Droop: Increasing rear droop will increase traction in bumpy sections, but will reduce high speed stability. Decreasing rear droop will increase stability in high speed sections, but will reduce stability in bumpy sections.
Suspension droop is defined as the amount of downward suspension movement there is in the wheels of a vehicle. The base measuring point for this droop can either be the chassis or the ride height of the car.
It is responsible for keeping the wheels in contact with the ground (or not!) when the front/rear of the truck rises or falls - like going into a corner, braking/accelerating or going over bumps.
More droop obviously allows for more wheel travel to keep the tires in contact with the track surface, but this is at the cost of agility - the car will not change direction as quickly.
The general rule of thumb with droop would be to have just enough to cope with the track you are racing at and no more. You must also consider the affect that the damping and springing on the car has
with increased droop as they have to be able to react quickly enough to move the wheel in and out of any holes, etc.
How to adjust:
Step 1: With only the bottm of the shocks attached, the droop screws raised all the way, and the chassis above your working surface so the arms are at full extension, you should be able to easily slide the top of your shock over the standoff screw, while leaving the shock at full extension. If the mounting hole of the shock cap is above or below the standoff/mount screw, adjust the droop screw accordingly ( to make the fully extended shock at the cap meet up with it mounting screw). Repeat for all four corners of your vehicle. Measure from the center of the top standoff screw to the center of the bottom shock mounting screw to get your FULL Droop setting. As a guide the Front shocks should be 109mm, while the rear shocks should be 127.5.
Step 2: To increase your droop turn the droop screw(from the top) counter-clockwise (loosen), turn the droop screw (from the top) clockwise (tighten) to decrease your droop. Remember, never back the screw out beyond full droop or you could risk damage to your vehicle.
*As stated from the Team associated manual (Truggy adjustment for example but applicable for all vehicles)
Front droop: Increasing front droop will increase off-throttle steering. It also allows the front end to lift more, giving more rear grip and less front grip on-power. Decreasing front droop yields more on-power steering and quicker response at the expense of some stability in bumpy sections. It will also give less off-throttle steering.
Rear Droop: Increasing rear droop will increase traction in bumpy sections, but will reduce high speed stability. Decreasing rear droop will increase stability in high speed sections, but will reduce stability in bumpy sections.
08-17-2014, 07:42 AM
#2381
5S and 6S are not legal for most racing and make sure your motor is rated for the increase in Voltage if you go that route. As others said 5000mah in a 4S is more than enough for most 10min or less racing with plenty to spare. I run dual shorty packs (Venom 4500mah 100C) in my car to save some weight and make the 8th scale more nimble for indoor clay tracks. That paired with the Tekin T8i 1950KV motor is a great combo for indoor racing. If you plan to run large outdoor 8th scale tracks go with a more traditional setup though with a 4S brick and a full size motor.
08-17-2014, 09:56 AM
#2382
Yes it's measured from center of top nut to bottom center of screw while car is lifted in air wheels off ground.
Suspension droop is defined as the amount of downward suspension movement there is in the wheels of a vehicle. The base measuring point for this droop can either be the chassis or the ride height of the car.
It is responsible for keeping the wheels in contact with the ground (or not!) when the front/rear of the truck rises or falls - like going into a corner, braking/accelerating or going over bumps.
More droop obviously allows for more wheel travel to keep the tires in contact with the track surface, but this is at the cost of agility - the car will not change direction as quickly.
The general rule of thumb with droop would be to have just enough to cope with the track you are racing at and no more. You must also consider the affect that the damping and springing on the car has
with increased droop as they have to be able to react quickly enough to move the wheel in and out of any holes, etc.
How to adjust:
Step 1: With only the bottm of the shocks attached, the droop screws raised all the way, and the chassis above your working surface so the arms are at full extension, you should be able to easily slide the top of your shock over the standoff screw, while leaving the shock at full extension. If the mounting hole of the shock cap is above or below the standoff/mount screw, adjust the droop screw accordingly ( to make the fully extended shock at the cap meet up with it mounting screw). Repeat for all four corners of your vehicle. Measure from the center of the top standoff screw to the center of the bottom shock mounting screw to get your FULL Droop setting. As a guide the Front shocks should be 109mm, while the rear shocks should be 127.5.
Step 2: To increase your droop turn the droop screw(from the top) counter-clockwise (loosen), turn the droop screw (from the top) clockwise (tighten) to decrease your droop. Remember, never back the screw out beyond full droop or you could risk damage to your vehicle.
*As stated from the Team associated manual (Truggy adjustment for example but applicable for all vehicles)
Front droop: Increasing front droop will increase off-throttle steering. It also allows the front end to lift more, giving more rear grip and less front grip on-power. Decreasing front droop yields more on-power steering and quicker response at the expense of some stability in bumpy sections. It will also give less off-throttle steering.
Rear Droop: Increasing rear droop will increase traction in bumpy sections, but will reduce high speed stability. Decreasing rear droop will increase stability in high speed sections, but will reduce stability in bumpy sections.
Suspension droop is defined as the amount of downward suspension movement there is in the wheels of a vehicle. The base measuring point for this droop can either be the chassis or the ride height of the car.
It is responsible for keeping the wheels in contact with the ground (or not!) when the front/rear of the truck rises or falls - like going into a corner, braking/accelerating or going over bumps.
More droop obviously allows for more wheel travel to keep the tires in contact with the track surface, but this is at the cost of agility - the car will not change direction as quickly.
The general rule of thumb with droop would be to have just enough to cope with the track you are racing at and no more. You must also consider the affect that the damping and springing on the car has
with increased droop as they have to be able to react quickly enough to move the wheel in and out of any holes, etc.
How to adjust:
Step 1: With only the bottm of the shocks attached, the droop screws raised all the way, and the chassis above your working surface so the arms are at full extension, you should be able to easily slide the top of your shock over the standoff screw, while leaving the shock at full extension. If the mounting hole of the shock cap is above or below the standoff/mount screw, adjust the droop screw accordingly ( to make the fully extended shock at the cap meet up with it mounting screw). Repeat for all four corners of your vehicle. Measure from the center of the top standoff screw to the center of the bottom shock mounting screw to get your FULL Droop setting. As a guide the Front shocks should be 109mm, while the rear shocks should be 127.5.
Step 2: To increase your droop turn the droop screw(from the top) counter-clockwise (loosen), turn the droop screw (from the top) clockwise (tighten) to decrease your droop. Remember, never back the screw out beyond full droop or you could risk damage to your vehicle.
*As stated from the Team associated manual (Truggy adjustment for example but applicable for all vehicles)
Front droop: Increasing front droop will increase off-throttle steering. It also allows the front end to lift more, giving more rear grip and less front grip on-power. Decreasing front droop yields more on-power steering and quicker response at the expense of some stability in bumpy sections. It will also give less off-throttle steering.
Rear Droop: Increasing rear droop will increase traction in bumpy sections, but will reduce high speed stability. Decreasing rear droop will increase stability in high speed sections, but will reduce stability in bumpy sections.
08-17-2014, 07:52 PM
#2384
Run a 4 cell as its Legal at all tracks . All you need is somewhere near 5000 Mah anything else is Heavy and Not needed. The RX8 / 1900 is what you want or even try a Hobbywing ESC its half the price and works awesome. Gear it with a 14 tooth pinion for small track or go to 15 T pinion for a larger track.
08-17-2014, 07:59 PM
#2385
5S and 6S are not legal for most racing and make sure your motor is rated for the increase in Voltage if you go that route. As others said 5000mah in a 4S is more than enough for most 10min or less racing with plenty to spare. I run dual shorty packs (Venom 4500mah 100C) in my car to save some weight and make the 8th scale more nimble for indoor clay tracks. That paired with the Tekin T8i 1950KV motor is a great combo for indoor racing. If you plan to run large outdoor 8th scale tracks go with a more traditional setup though with a 4S brick and a full size motor.