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Old 08-01-2014, 07:57 AM   #2326
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Another question regarding servos. I ran the xp1015 and it feels good but I think it needs a little more. What is a good amount of torque and speed that I should be looking for? Do you need more torque over speed? I was also looking at the spectrum 6090 or the futuba 9352 and was wondering which would be better for the buggy?
I run the s6090 on HV in my 8ght and it works great. You need to value speed and torque in a good 8th scale steering servo. You want to look for torque numbers in the 200+ range and speed in the .1 range IMO for a good steering servo.
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Old 08-01-2014, 08:23 AM   #2327
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Thumbs up Speed> 6090s

Size Category:StandardTypeigitalApplication:1/8 Scale SurfaceTorque:181 oz-in (13 kg-cm) @ 6.0V; 292 oz-in (21 kg-cm) @ 7.4VSpeed:0.11 sec/60 @ 6.0V; 0.09 sec/60 @ 7.4VLength:1.57 in (40mm)Width:0.79 in (20mm)Height:1.24 in (32mm)Weight:2.2 oz (62g)Bushing Or Bearing:BearingConnector Type:Z-connectorGear Type:MetalGear Material:SteelVoltage:6.0V-7.4VMotor Type:CorelessBearingual
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Size Category:StandardTypeigitalApplication:1/8 Scale SurfaceTorque:181 oz-in (13 kg-cm) @ 6.0V; 292 oz-in (21 kg-cm) @ 7.4VSpeed:0.11 sec/60 @ 6.0V; 0.09 sec/60 @ 7.4VLength:1.57 in (40mm)Width:0.79 in (20mm)Height:1.24 in (32mm)Weight:2.2 oz (62g)Bushing Or Bearing:BearingConnector Type:Z-connectorGear Type:MetalGear Material:SteelVoltage:6.0V-7.4VMotor Type:CorelessBearingual[/B]0]Another question regarding servos. I ran the xp1015 and it feels good but I think it needs a little more. What is a good amount of torque and speed that I should be looking for? Do you need more torque over speed? I was also looking at the spectrum 6090 or the futuba 9352 and was wondering which would be better for the buggy?
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Old 08-01-2014, 10:09 PM   #2328
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I run the s6090 on HV in my 8ght and it works great. You need to value speed and torque in a good 8th scale steering servo. You want to look for torque numbers in the 200+ range and speed in the .1 range IMO for a good steering servo.
Thanks casper and glen.
Do you run the rx8 on the 7.4 bec with that servo? Does that drain the battery any quicker or noticeably compared to 6.0v.

Also does anyone have a picture on how you run the two 2s packs instead of a 4s?

Last edited by dbracn; 08-01-2014 at 10:10 PM. Reason: added a question.
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Old 08-02-2014, 05:26 AM   #2329
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2 2s Packs:
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TLR 8IGHT E 3.0 THREAD-image.jpg  
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Old 08-02-2014, 10:21 PM   #2330
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Thanks for the picture. How are you running connectors to run both at once?

Thanks,
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Old 08-03-2014, 12:11 AM   #2331
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Thanks for the picture. How are you running connectors to run both at once?

Thanks,
You can also see it in the picture at the left
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Old 08-03-2014, 10:12 AM   #2332
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Thanks casper and glen.
Do you run the rx8 on the 7.4 bec with that servo? Does that drain the battery any quicker or noticeably compared to 6.0v.

Also does anyone have a picture on how you run the two 2s packs instead of a 4s?
I was running 10 min mains on dual 3800mah shorties on the high voltage BEC.
No this should not drain your battery anymore as the BEC just lets through more voltage.

Here is picture of the shorty pack setup I run

http://www.petitrc.com/setup/losi/se...ctronicsSetup/
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Old 08-03-2014, 11:11 AM   #2333
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I wonder if anyone has run a RC8.2e and 8ight-e 3.0? How is the driving characteristics vs the two buggies? I am thinking of selling my rc8.2e roller and getting a 8ight-e 3.0
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Old 08-03-2014, 12:03 PM   #2334
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I'd go ahead and sell the 8.2! The 3.0-E is amazing compared to it. I had way mote corner speed than all the 8.2's last night and it is much better at just about everything else. Seems like the 8.2'ss couldn't push near as hard.
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Old 08-03-2014, 02:43 PM   #2335
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Im getting ready to build my kit what is the o ring mod to the shocks that I heard about a while ago? Is it just a matter of leaving out the shim between the to orings? Is there any other tricks or mods to do during a build? Thanks..
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Old 08-03-2014, 04:09 PM   #2336
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Im getting ready to build my kit what is the o ring mod to the shocks that I heard about a while ago? Is it just a matter of leaving out the shim between the to orings? Is there any other tricks or mods to do during a build? Thanks..


Xrings you mean ?
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Old 08-03-2014, 05:42 PM   #2337
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Im not sure. Had a guy telling me to leave the spacer or shim out between the 2 o rings in the shock to per vent stickshon and the shocks will move free once the orings start to swell. If there is a better shock oring can you give me the part #
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Old 08-03-2014, 05:49 PM   #2338
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Exclamation Build it normal

Build them normal. Now the Dif you leave out the washes not the shocks.
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Im not sure. Had a guy telling me to leave the spacer or shim out between the 2 o rings in the shock to per vent stickshon and the shocks will move free once the orings start to swell. If there is a better shock oring can you give me the part #
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Old 08-04-2014, 05:00 AM   #2339
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Im not sure. Had a guy telling me to leave the spacer or shim out between the 2 o rings in the shock to per vent stickshon and the shocks will move free once the orings start to swell. If there is a better shock oring can you give me the part #
When you first build them do them as the manual states. After a couple of times topping them off you may feel the o-rings getting tighter. Then take out the shim. They will be smooth as silk. As they get tight again from swelling take out an o-ring. Sounds crazy as hell but they don't leak and performance is like not even having an o-ring in there. Around here we have been running them with no shims for months and no leaking yet. These are by far the best o-rings I've ever seen. FYI around here the 3.0 has dominated the podium all year. The only real wear is the front center dog bone.

I highly recommend building the entire kit as the manual states to anyone building one the first time. The only thing is I would recommend buying an aluminum top saver arm. Truly the only thing after market this kit needs.
http://www.amain.com/Team-Losi-Racin...er-Top/p275038
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Old 08-05-2014, 06:56 AM   #2340
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When you first build them do them as the manual states. After a couple of times topping them off you may feel the o-rings getting tighter. Then take out the shim. They will be smooth as silk. As they get tight again from swelling take out an o-ring. Sounds crazy as hell but they don't leak and performance is like not even having an o-ring in there. Around here we have been running them with no shims for months and no leaking yet. These are by far the best o-rings I've ever seen. FYI around here the 3.0 has dominated the podium all year. The only real wear is the front center dog bone.

I highly recommend building the entire kit as the manual states to anyone building one the first time. The only thing is I would recommend buying an aluminum top saver arm. Truly the only thing after market this kit needs.
http://www.amain.com/Team-Losi-Racin...er-Top/p275038
I took out the shim between the o-rings in my shocks and they haven't leaked once and they are waaaay smoother than before. The were smooth before and now they are even smoother. I will be leaving the shim out because I like how free the shocks are now. I also recommend getting the aluminum servo saver top and I also run a metal 45t spur gear when I go outdoor.
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