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Old 07-23-2014, 06:45 PM   #2296
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what a fantastic answer, thanks buddy!
Glad to help!
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Old 07-24-2014, 10:12 AM   #2297
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Default Measuring and running droop

How are you guys measuring droop? I have 30mm droop blocks and a gauge, but the front steering knuckles are basically touching my setup board. I have seen reference to measuring shock lengths while mounted. Is this the best way?

Also, how much droop is appropriate? I run on a high bite indoor clay track that is smooth.
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Old 07-24-2014, 01:16 PM   #2298
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How are you guys measuring droop? I have 30mm droop blocks and a gauge, but the front steering knuckles are basically touching my setup board. I have seen reference to measuring shock lengths while mounted. Is this the best way?

Also, how much droop is appropriate? I run on a high bite indoor clay track that is smooth.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H99PKqsUZjA
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Old 07-24-2014, 06:04 PM   #2299
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Is measuring the shock affected by the position of the shock on the upper and lower mounts? For example, if I move to the top inside mount for the shock, will this change the droop?
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Old 07-24-2014, 10:52 PM   #2300
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Is measuring the shock affected by the position of the shock on the upper and lower mounts? For example, if I move to the top inside mount for the shock, will this change the droop?
Nope, as long as the droop screws are bottoming out on the chassis "droop" will be the same but the stroke/travel of the shock will change. The leverage will change at the arm.
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Old 07-24-2014, 10:58 PM   #2301
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Originally Posted by cdraughon View Post
How are you guys measuring droop? I have 30mm droop blocks and a gauge, but the front steering knuckles are basically touching my setup board. I have seen reference to measuring shock lengths while mounted. Is this the best way?

Also, how much droop is appropriate? I run on a high bite indoor clay track that is smooth.
If its high bite I would start with lowering the roll center and set the droop at box stock settings and work less droop in from there as needed. The more droop the better for landings and jumping.
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Old 07-25-2014, 12:18 AM   #2302
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Originally Posted by cdraughon View Post
How are you guys measuring droop? I have 30mm droop blocks and a gauge, but the front steering knuckles are basically touching my setup board. I have seen reference to measuring shock lengths while mounted. Is this the best way?

Also, how much droop is appropriate? I run on a high bite indoor clay track that is smooth.
If you want to know the amount of droop (and other setup parameters) you can look at the team setup sheets:

http://www.tlracing.com/Products/Def...002#prodSetups

Or just use the standard droop from the stock setup.
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Old 07-25-2014, 10:24 AM   #2303
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Some help needed,
I just got this buggy and was wondering about servos. Would the xp1015 or the spectrum 6090 work well with this buggy? I run spectrum so I want to avoid savox but these two were the top of my list. The only thing I see for spectrum is that you can run 7.4 vs the xp only runs 6. I will be running a 4s pack.

Thanks,
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Old 07-25-2014, 01:26 PM   #2304
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If a fella has a 3.0 nitro but doesn't want to buy the conversion kit. Could he simply buy the 3.0 e chassis and battery layout and have the 3.0 e car? Meaning I don't want to have the conversion where the esc is in the back

Last edited by Drip; 07-25-2014 at 01:29 PM. Reason: auto correct
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Old 07-25-2014, 01:54 PM   #2305
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If a fella has a 3.0 nitro but doesn't want to buy the conversion kit. Could he simply buy the 3.0 e chassis and battery layout and have the 3.0 e car? Meaning I don't want to have the conversion where the esc is in the back
Just for your information, some with the E 3.0 have actually modded their battery/esc layout to have the esc in the back.
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Old 07-25-2014, 01:57 PM   #2306
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If a fella has a 3.0 nitro but doesn't want to buy the conversion kit. Could he simply buy the 3.0 e chassis and battery layout and have the 3.0 e car? Meaning I don't want to have the conversion where the esc is in the back
Another thing, if the goal really is a pure E 3.0, you would probably be better off, in the long run, buying an E 3.0 kit and use the nitro 3.0 as spares.
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Old 07-25-2014, 01:57 PM   #2307
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If a fella has a 3.0 nitro but doesn't want to buy the conversion kit. Could he simply buy the 3.0 e chassis and battery layout and have the 3.0 e car? Meaning I don't want to have the conversion where the esc is in the back
The rear drive shaft is different and you need the Steering servo mount motor mount and diff cover (for the wires).

You basically replace everything in the middle of the chassis but the front and rear clips are the same.
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Old 07-25-2014, 02:00 PM   #2308
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awesome thats what i needed to know!!
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Old 07-25-2014, 08:45 PM   #2309
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For everyone that was having a terrible time getting the front arms to be free, I ended up testing an #18 drill bit --works perfect.

I tried the 10-32 tap like someone suggested for the droop screw, with some new arms before I tried to screw in the droop screw -- did nothing. Still wasn't free.

The #18 drill bit makes it nice and free, with only a VERY SLIGHT amount of play.

Hope this helps.
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Old 07-25-2014, 09:56 PM   #2310
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Originally Posted by skrichter View Post
For everyone that was having a terrible time getting the front arms to be free, I ended up testing an #18 drill bit --works perfect.

I tried the 10-32 tap like someone suggested for the droop screw, with some new arms before I tried to screw in the droop screw -- did nothing. Still wasn't free.

The #18 drill bit makes it nice and free, with only a VERY SLIGHT amount of play.

Hope this helps.



I did mine recently with a 10-32 tap and they came out Smoooooth as butter.....
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