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Old 06-29-2014, 08:55 AM   #2236
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Originally Posted by rtemske View Post
Mine is bone stock (just built it), so no ballast anywhere. I put my B4.2 on the scale to make sure the scale seemed right and it balanced almost exactly L/R (the battery and motor are on the center line in that buggy so not surprising). I moved the battery as far forward as it would go (in the 8ight) in the holder but it didn't make much difference (I only have about 1/2" of play, so not much adjustment available there).

I did not remove the shock springs when measuring, only the sway bars. Should I? I could see the springs shifting Front/Rear balance, but wouldn't think they'd skew things Left/Right?
I just want to see my dead balance then I will do it at ride height. Preloaded will make some differences. I also level my pit board. This week I may take the time to go ahead and mod the battery tray as well.
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Old 06-29-2014, 06:27 PM   #2237
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Hi, I am new to this forum and I am looking to modify my truck with the 8ight buggy shocks. Can someone take some measurements for me?

Center of eyelet to eyelet length of the front and rear
Top mount hole diameter
Top mount bushing inner diameter (If it has one like the 2.0)

What are the differences compared to the 2.0 shocks?
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Old 06-29-2014, 06:59 PM   #2238
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Okay front no springs, shortest wheel base. chassis was about prefect flat with pit board. Pit board is level. RF-29.13 LF-29.60




Now the rear with no springs. RR-31.93 LR-31.91


Looked pretty impressive, till I put the springs on it. My scale tops out at 35.0 OZ so setting the springs as close as possible to 35/35 it will show the scale full.


Front basically to me at 28/28mm ride height shows the kit is 4 to 6 oz's heavier in the rear. Keep in mind I am running the front 40g ballast. Still the short wheel base battery forward. The bad pics shows LF 29.16oz and RF 28.75oz


So to some it up my feeling is moving the battery forward would really help but possibly throw it off as far as the un-sprung balance?? Any thoughts? I can see how over thinking it would be possible but getting more forward weight would really help the kit's performance IMO? I will do a test with the long wheel base soon.
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Old 06-29-2014, 08:18 PM   #2239
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Thank you so much for taking all that time! I'll need to do some playing around with the springs removed to see how much effect that's having. I ran the buggy for the first time today (with the weight issues, figured I'd at least see how it performs). After only running 1/10 scale before it was pretty amazing! Unfortunately my first day out and one of the posts pulled out of my new RX8 ESC (very frustrating), so I'm down for the count until I can get Tekin to fix that. But - that give me time to work on the weight issues (it will be off a little bit once I pull the ESC, but it's pretty light and not a major contributor)
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Old 06-29-2014, 10:40 PM   #2240
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Originally Posted by rtemske View Post
Thank you so much for taking all that time! I'll need to do some playing around with the springs removed to see how much effect that's having. I ran the buggy for the first time today (with the weight issues, figured I'd at least see how it performs). After only running 1/10 scale before it was pretty amazing! Unfortunately my first day out and one of the posts pulled out of my new RX8 ESC (very frustrating), so I'm down for the count until I can get Tekin to fix that. But - that give me time to work on the weight issues (it will be off a little bit once I pull the ESC, but it's pretty light and not a major contributor)
I'll will post up the results when I get a chance to the next time I scale it.
I figure if TLR and there crew think it needs to have a option battery tray then they will put one out to buy so I am not going to do the battery mod. My kit is on rails but needs a bit more off and on power steering. Now I know what I am up against as far as weight balance. I am going to tinker with roll centers and scale it again. On the track less wing down force and some link changes I'm sure I can get what I am looking for. I was reading up on some set up options tonight just need to get to the track and do some testing. I may even get some rear high roll center hinge pin braces ? One nice thing about moving the battery forward would mean moving the ESC back. I like the idea of less wire.
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Old 06-29-2014, 10:44 PM   #2241
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The optional brass chassis weight will definitely give you more on and off power steering. I tried it and had to dial my dual rate to 86% :O It steered like a mofo!
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Old 06-29-2014, 10:52 PM   #2242
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The optional brass chassis weight will definitely give you more on and off power steering. I tried it and had to dial my dual rate to 86% :O It steered like a mofo!
It helps I have one but our track is a bit dusty at times. So there may be no help aside from tire options. UHG. My kit is the one to beat in our E class so I am not struggling right now but Moody with his Mugen is nipping at my fanny and I need just a bit more edge. We had a hell of a battle Friday night.

What I have been doing when the kit is pushing due to the track is I take the front roll bar off. It helps a lot.
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Old 06-29-2014, 10:57 PM   #2243
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Not that it would transfer much weight but has any one tried putting the plastic shim on the front of the front shock tower behind it? I was thinking about shimming the front toward forward it would also get the links more in line with the axles. I may scale that as well?
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Old 06-30-2014, 11:28 AM   #2244
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Anyone know what turnbuckles Drake is using?

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Old 06-30-2014, 12:25 PM   #2245
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Anyone know what turnbuckles Drake is using?

Those are titanium turnbuckles that he made blue.
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Old 06-30-2014, 02:01 PM   #2246
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RandyJones View Post
Pre-tap the droop screw holes with a 10/32 tap and pins will slide thru smoothly.
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Ideally they should not bind in the arms or the inserts. Rear arms this is easily achievable. Front arms are a different story. The drop screws binds the hinge pin. I gave up trying to ream it with my crappy Turdigy reamer. Someone posted earlier in this thread that slightly drilling out the droop screw hole before inserting the screw fixed the issue.

BTW, the stock grey hinge pins do bend easily on this buggy.

Purchased new arms and the hinge pins were nice and free. Until I threaded in the droop screws (which was not an ez task), now the pins aren't free at all (pin holes in arm are now off).

So if you don't pre-tap the droop screw holes, and now with the plastic deformed, not sure what solution is available? Suggestions welcome.
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Last edited by skrichter; 06-30-2014 at 03:08 PM.
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Old 06-30-2014, 04:15 PM   #2247
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You can pull the droop screws out, and put a hinge pin through just that side of the arm. Hold a heap of pressure on the pin to try and close up the hole, heat the plastic with a cigarette lighter to try and get them to stay in the right spot (it might mar the plastic a little) then thread the holes while holding pressure on the hinge pin.

I also tried heating the droop screw with a lighter, till it sizzles a bit when it touches the plastic, but you have to be very careful not to overdo it and make the thread too loose.
much easier with a 10-32 tap.
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Old 07-01-2014, 05:07 AM   #2248
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Dry loose slick outdoor setup. Stock setup not horrible but other than tires what changes does everyone like for these conditions?
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Old 07-01-2014, 06:41 AM   #2249
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Dry loose slick outdoor setup. Stock setup not horrible but other than tires what changes does everyone like for these conditions?
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Old 07-01-2014, 07:18 AM   #2250
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total newbie to the 1/8 scale buggy world picked up a 8ight e buggy is a spektrum s6090 servo or s6100 servo better fit for it one is high torque one is higher speed? thanks for any input .
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