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Old 06-25-2014, 07:04 PM   #2206
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I'm stuck on my build and can't seem to figure this one out. My center motor mount is grinding against the bottom plate. It's a little hard to see, but in the attached picture there's a groove cut into the plate so that the spur gear can freely rotate. What's happening is that the gear is pressed up too tightly against the left side (as viewed in the picture) and it's rubbing against the side of that groove. (I'm not seeing any friction on the bottom - just the left side).

The manual doesn't call for any shims on that side (page 24 in the 8ight e 3.0 manual). I've tried adding one (I actually then tried adding about 10 just for the heck of it, but even that didn't solve the problem).

When the assembly is not mounted to the vehicle, everything rotates smooth as can be (so it's not an internal binding issue) - but once I mount it to the frame, the spur rubs against the bottom plate. I don't see how I can move it further to right (again from the viewpoint of the picture) so that it doesn't catch.

Any suggestions welcome - I must be doing something wrong or there would be hundreds of posts on this (and I couldn't find any - so I'm guessing it's just me

(BTW - I know the steering link is hanging on the dogbone in the picture, but it was pulled out of the way during testing and isn't the source of the friction).

Thanks in advance,

Ron
What I see looks like the center front drive is pushing back to far on the outdrive of the diff. Kinda like its pushing towards the rear which is pushing the spur back on to that groove. I know its just a drawing, but when you look at the manual it shows a bit of a gap where the pin sits in the slot.
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Old 06-25-2014, 07:13 PM   #2207
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I'd say 80% certain (can't be 100% without dissembling the diff case - which I may end up doing). It would seem though that the shim you reference would actually make it worse since it pushes the assembly closer to the spur gear?
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Old 06-25-2014, 07:30 PM   #2208
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I'd say 80% certain (can't be 100% without dissembling the diff case - which I may end up doing). It would seem though that the shim you reference would actually make it worse since it pushes the assembly closer to the spur gear?
There should be one on each side of the diff if I recall correctly....
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Old 06-25-2014, 08:11 PM   #2209
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Originally Posted by rtemske View Post
I'm stuck on my build and can't seem to figure this one out. My center motor mount is grinding against the bottom plate. It's a little hard to see, but in the attached picture there's a groove cut into the plate so that the spur gear can freely rotate. What's happening is that the gear is pressed up too tightly against the left side (as viewed in the picture) and it's rubbing against the side of that groove. (I'm not seeing any friction on the bottom - just the left side).

The manual doesn't call for any shims on that side (page 24 in the 8ight e 3.0 manual). I've tried adding one (I actually then tried adding about 10 just for the heck of it, but even that didn't solve the problem).

When the assembly is not mounted to the vehicle, everything rotates smooth as can be (so it's not an internal binding issue) - but once I mount it to the frame, the spur rubs against the bottom plate. I don't see how I can move it further to right (again from the viewpoint of the picture) so that it doesn't catch.

Any suggestions welcome - I must be doing something wrong or there would be hundreds of posts on this (and I couldn't find any - so I'm guessing it's just me

(BTW - I know the steering link is hanging on the dogbone in the picture, but it was pulled out of the way during testing and isn't the source of the friction).

Thanks in advance,

Ron
Ron, the spur gear looks spaced back from diff case. Just a shot in the dark, is the spur on backwards?
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Old 06-25-2014, 08:20 PM   #2210
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Originally Posted by rtemske View Post
I'm stuck on my build and can't seem to figure this one out. My center motor mount is grinding against the bottom plate. It's a little hard to see, but in the attached picture there's a groove cut into the plate so that the spur gear can freely rotate. What's happening is that the gear is pressed up too tightly against the left side (as viewed in the picture) and it's rubbing against the side of that groove. (I'm not seeing any friction on the bottom - just the left side).

The manual doesn't call for any shims on that side (page 24 in the 8ight e 3.0 manual). I've tried adding one (I actually then tried adding about 10 just for the heck of it, but even that didn't solve the problem).

When the assembly is not mounted to the vehicle, everything rotates smooth as can be (so it's not an internal binding issue) - but once I mount it to the frame, the spur rubs against the bottom plate. I don't see how I can move it further to right (again from the viewpoint of the picture) so that it doesn't catch.

Any suggestions welcome - I must be doing something wrong or there would be hundreds of posts on this (and I couldn't find any - so I'm guessing it's just me

(BTW - I know the steering link is hanging on the dogbone in the picture, but it was pulled out of the way during testing and isn't the source of the friction).

Thanks in advance,

Ron
It almost looks like it is being pushed or it's in a bind all together. Did you (or the kit) mix up the front center drive shaft with the rear center shaft? If I recall the rear is longer meaning if you had it In the front it would push what little play you have toward the rear.
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Old 06-25-2014, 08:38 PM   #2211
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Ah yes, the spur looks like it's on backwards....it needs to be flipped around the other way...
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Old 06-26-2014, 03:01 AM   #2212
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Let me take a look at the spur and see if it is in fact on backwards (wouldn't that be embarrasing .

It's not the driveshaft, as I assembled it once without the driveshafts even attached (to check for that issue) and the binding still occured. I'll check the spur gear orientation and report back!

Thanks for all the replies.
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Yes - it was in fact the spur gear on backwards. Very frustrating as the recessions for the screws are actually more pronounced on the wrong side of the gear (which is how I made the mistake thinking surely the side with the proper screw recessions would be the side for the screws!)

But it all fits great now, with no binding and very smooth.

Thank you all for the help - I've been trying to figure this out for hours and never even considered the backwards gear. Now to solder up the electronics and go race!

Last edited by rtemske; 06-26-2014 at 04:12 AM.
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Old 06-26-2014, 05:48 AM   #2213
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No worries man, glad you got it figured out!
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Old 06-26-2014, 05:52 AM   #2214
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Well fellas to my surprise the shocks held up like a champ with one o-ring. I put in a plastic shim then the ring the another shim. The one with 1 shim and o-ring worked great to. FYI
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Old 06-26-2014, 08:30 AM   #2215
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Well fellas to my surprise the shocks held up like a champ with one o-ring. I put in a plastic shim then the ring the another shim. The one with 1 shim and o-ring worked great to. FYI
TLR released xrings for the 8ight platform. The SCTE uses one o-ring.

So what were you trying to accompish with this mod?
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Old 06-26-2014, 09:10 AM   #2216
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TLR released xrings for the 8ight platform. The SCTE uses one o-ring.

So what were you trying to accompish with this mod?
I wouldn't call it a mod but there not leaking with one and there is literally very little sticktion. The stock set up was tight after a few runs once the rings swelled. *My SCTE is what prompted me to try it. Took the shim out and was better. Now I have one X-ring in there and little to no leaking. I would say it's a pretty good testament to just how good these X - rings are.
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Old 06-26-2014, 09:23 AM   #2217
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I wouldn't call it a mod but there not leaking with one and there is literally very little sticktion. The stock set up was tight after a few runs once the rings swelled. *My SCTE is what prompted me to try it. Took the shim out and was better. Now I have one X-ring in there and little to no leaking. I would say it's a pretty good testament to just how good these X - rings are.
Two X rings should be just as good as well and are more resistant to swelling.
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Old 06-26-2014, 09:30 AM   #2218
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Two X rings should be just as good as well and are more resistant to swelling.
I agree actually but with one its notable how much smoother they are. I am going to leave it and see how it turns out. If they blow out then it will be an epic fail. And I'm sure it will be on a TQ run.. I punished them pretty hard last night though.
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Old 06-26-2014, 10:24 AM   #2219
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I agree actually but with one its notable how much smoother they are. I am going to leave it and see how it turns out. If they blow out then it will be an epic fail. And I'm sure it will be on a TQ run.. I punished them pretty hard last night though.
I bet it will be fine with the new machined bushings they have for the 3.0 shocks.
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Old 06-26-2014, 12:36 PM   #2220
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Two X rings should be just as good as well and are more resistant to swelling.
Thx. Wasn't aware there were Xrings. Any other out of the box parts which might be beneficial (other than the aluminum servo saver)??
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