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Old 06-22-2014, 10:10 PM   #2191
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Originally Posted by skrichter View Post
Picked up a used 3.0e myself -- thanks for the tips!!!

Has anyone ever tried to replace the cva joint pins? I see mugen makes some.

http://www.amain.com/product_info.ph...38mm-Joint-Pin
You mean the dogbone pins, yeah, I replace the fronts regularly....
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Old 06-22-2014, 10:13 PM   #2192
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Originally Posted by skrichter View Post
Picked up a used 3.0e myself -- thanks for the tips!!!

Has anyone ever tried to replace the cva joint pins? I see mugen makes some.

http://www.amain.com/product_info.ph...38mm-Joint-Pin
They make a tool to. I would like to get dialed in on doing this myself as well. The tool is pricey but after a couple of uses it would be paid for...
http://www.amain.com/product_info.ph...placement-Tool
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Old 06-22-2014, 10:14 PM   #2193
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You mean the dogbone pins, yeah, I replace the fronts regularly....
Cool so the mugen pins will work and the tool I linked?
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Old 06-22-2014, 10:23 PM   #2194
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Cool so the mugen pins will work and the tool I linked?
Yup, that's exactly what I use.
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Old 06-23-2014, 02:25 AM   #2195
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Yes, the first time it will be difficult to pull out , and then it's going easly.
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Old 06-23-2014, 03:14 AM   #2196
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I have a neighbor who drives Mugen buggy, and he has the Mugen drive pin tool. I'm going to try to replace the pins in one of the center drive dogbones with the tool.
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Old 06-23-2014, 09:43 AM   #2197
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Default Spur

Is the spur gear on 8ight-E 3.0 the same as 8ight-T 3.0 E conversion?
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Old 06-23-2014, 03:42 PM   #2198
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Does anyone know what tapered pistons Dakota used in his 2013 ROAR winning 8ight 3.0E. It says on his setup sheet they were tapered front and rear, but doesn't have the size.

Thanks
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Old 06-23-2014, 04:40 PM   #2199
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Does anyone know what tapered pistons Dakota used in his 2013 ROAR winning 8ight 3.0E. It says on his setup sheet they were tapered front and rear, but doesn't have the size.

Thanks
I'm willing to bet they were the TLR 1.3 Fronts, 1.2/1.3 splits Rear. But I don't know that for sure.
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Old 06-23-2014, 06:08 PM   #2200
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I fear that on the track they will blow out. I will let ya all know as soon as I know. Crossing my fingers but if there any thing as good as the 22 then they will rock.
What's up with removing shims/orings? The shocks have that much sticktion?
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Old 06-23-2014, 06:42 PM   #2201
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What's up with removing shims/orings? The shocks have that much sticktion?
Just testing them. But yes they do once they swell. I took the shim out and they were smoother. Right now I have 2 shims and 1 o-ring in 3 if them and 1 I just have 1 shim and 1 o-ring. 1 o-ring is very smooth and free like the 22. Hopefully it works?
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Old 06-23-2014, 06:45 PM   #2202
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I'm willing to bet they were the TLR 1.3 Fronts, 1.2/1.3 splits Rear. But I don't know that for sure.
My kit was gliding with the flat pistons. Loved them. Gonna stick with them for a while.
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Old 06-23-2014, 06:51 PM   #2203
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I'm willing to bet they were the TLR 1.3 Fronts, 1.2/1.3 splits Rear. But I don't know that for sure.
Thanks...
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Old 06-25-2014, 07:45 PM   #2204
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Default Can't fix binding on center motor mount

I'm stuck on my build and can't seem to figure this one out. My center motor mount is grinding against the bottom plate. It's a little hard to see, but in the attached picture there's a groove cut into the plate so that the spur gear can freely rotate. What's happening is that the gear is pressed up too tightly against the left side (as viewed in the picture) and it's rubbing against the side of that groove. (I'm not seeing any friction on the bottom - just the left side).

The manual doesn't call for any shims on that side (page 24 in the 8ight e 3.0 manual). I've tried adding one (I actually then tried adding about 10 just for the heck of it, but even that didn't solve the problem).

When the assembly is not mounted to the vehicle, everything rotates smooth as can be (so it's not an internal binding issue) - but once I mount it to the frame, the spur rubs against the bottom plate. I don't see how I can move it further to right (again from the viewpoint of the picture) so that it doesn't catch.

Any suggestions welcome - I must be doing something wrong or there would be hundreds of posts on this (and I couldn't find any - so I'm guessing it's just me

(BTW - I know the steering link is hanging on the dogbone in the picture, but it was pulled out of the way during testing and isn't the source of the friction).

Thanks in advance,

Ron
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Old 06-25-2014, 07:56 PM   #2205
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Are you sure you put the thick aluminum shim(tlr242008) under the bearing as shown?
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