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Old 06-20-2014, 11:53 AM   #2176
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i got a 1900kv tekin with 46spur and have a 15
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Old 06-20-2014, 12:33 PM   #2177
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i got a 1900kv tekin with 46spur and have a 15
Yes, a 19T pinion may just be too much. It was just because I have a bunch of them from the Hobbywing combo sets that I have bought.
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Old 06-21-2014, 08:44 AM   #2178
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Default Best servo for the losi?

What is the most highly recommended film unlimited budget?
Please write your recommendation.
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Old 06-21-2014, 11:13 AM   #2179
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What is the most highly recommended film unlimited budget?
Please write your recommendation.
If I could choose one servo right now, I would choose the Futaba S9353HV.

High quality, an fast (0,08s) even on 6V and powerful (18kg).

On 7,4v its 0,06s and 22kg.

I run 6v, because I don't like the external bec thing, and the Futaba is not as power hungry as a Savox.

So this Futaba servo delivers high quality and fast strong performance even on 6v.

But it is not cheap.
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Old 06-21-2014, 11:44 AM   #2180
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If I could choose one servo right now, I would choose the Futaba S9353HV.

High quality, an fast (0,08s) even on 6V and powerful (18kg).

On 7,4v its 0,06s and 22kg.

I run 6v, because I don't like the external bec thing, and the Futaba is not as power hungry as a Savox.

So this Futaba servo delivers high quality and fast strong performance even on 6v.

But it is not cheap.
Run Tekin Gen2 RX8 and his has HV BEC setting!
Spektrum S6090

.09 speed and 21kg at 7.4V
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Old 06-21-2014, 08:23 PM   #2181
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Okay gents. All I can say is I won't be changing pistons again. The 1.3/8 and splits in the rear were the best I have tried. TLR 35 1.3/8 in the front and 1.2-1.3/8 TLR 27.5 in the rear was the ticket for me. Smooth dry track today and the kit was on rails. I will be trying 30 in the rear but man I was dialed today. Silver springs front and rear.
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Old 06-21-2014, 08:25 PM   #2182
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I love my S9353HV
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Old 06-22-2014, 01:14 AM   #2183
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I just picked up an 8ightE 3.0 today from my LHS. Ordered a Tekin ESC and 1900kV motor. I'm new to 1/8th scale so does anyone have any build tips on this buggy?
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Old 06-22-2014, 03:17 PM   #2184
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I just picked up an 8ightE 3.0 today from my LHS. Ordered a Tekin ESC and 1900kV motor. I'm new to 1/8th scale so does anyone have any build tips on this buggy?
You should really read through this thread.

But if you start to build while you read one tip is not to use the oils in the kit. They are not true to the weight printed on the tubes.
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Old 06-22-2014, 03:33 PM   #2185
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I just picked up an 8ightE 3.0 today from my LHS. Ordered a Tekin ESC and 1900kV motor. I'm new to 1/8th scale so does anyone have any build tips on this buggy?
http://www.amain.com/product_info.ph...ervo-Saver-Top
Here's a good idea to put on during the build or after. Myself and every person at our track has broken the plastic one. They really need to just put this in the box. It would make it a premium complete kit IMO. Aside from that the only upgrade needed I didn't put the plastic shim in my shocks. I have not had an issue yet with them leaking and the shocks are smoother. You may have to pinch the ball ends with pliers to free them up. They and the hinge pins are pretty tight and it will help break in. The droop screws will make the hinge pin tight but it will free up. Some fellas are reaming the droop screw hole to a size I can not recall. I guess it makes break in instant.

My first build I didn't use the shims in the diffs. They work freer and break in is quicker. but the out drives started wobbling after a few days of racing so I would recommend just putting them on from the start. That's what I did on this build.
I didn't use the shock oils but on this build but I did use the diff lube. It worked fine on its first outing so far. This was my second build of this kit BTW.

In all honesty you can build the kit box stock by the book and its really solid. Just be sure to have a servo saver top ready just in case.
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Old 06-22-2014, 03:58 PM   #2186
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UN4RACING View Post
http://www.amain.com/product_info.ph...ervo-Saver-Top
Here's a good idea to put on during the build or after. Myself and every person at our track has broken the plastic one. They really need to just put this in the box. It would make it a premium complete kit IMO. Aside from that the only upgrade needed I didn't put the plastic shim in my shocks. I have not had an issue yet with them leaking and the shocks are smoother. You may have to pinch the ball ends with pliers to free them up. They and the hinge pins are pretty tight and it will help break in. The droop screws will make the hinge pin tight but it will free up. Some fellas are reaming the droop screw hole to a size I can not recall. I guess it makes break in instant.

My first build I didn't use the shims in the diffs. They work freer and break in is quicker. but the out drives started wobbling after a few days of racing so I would recommend just putting them on from the start. That's what I did on this build.
I didn't use the shock oils but on this build but I did use the diff lube. It worked fine on its first outing so far. This was my second build of this kit BTW.

In all honesty you can build the kit box stock by the book and its really solid. Just be sure to have a servo saver top ready just in case.
+1 spot on.
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Old 06-22-2014, 04:25 PM   #2187
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Hey sym I am going to try 1 o-ring with the plastic shim weekend in each shock. Hope it works? Talk about free movement. On the table imulsion no leaks.
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Old 06-22-2014, 05:02 PM   #2188
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Hey sym I am going to try 1 o-ring with the plastic shim weekend in each shock. Hope it works? Talk about free movement. On the table imulsion no leaks.
Hopefully it will make them as free as the 22-4 shocks!
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Old 06-22-2014, 08:14 PM   #2189
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Hopefully it will make them as free as the 22-4 shocks!
I fear that on the track they will blow out. I will let ya all know as soon as I know. Crossing my fingers but if there any thing as good as the 22 then they will rock.
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Old 06-22-2014, 09:42 PM   #2190
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UN4RACING View Post
http://www.amain.com/product_info.ph...ervo-Saver-Top
Here's a good idea to put on during the build or after. Myself and every person at our track has broken the plastic one. They really need to just put this in the box. It would make it a premium complete kit IMO. Aside from that the only upgrade needed I didn't put the plastic shim in my shocks. I have not had an issue yet with them leaking and the shocks are smoother. You may have to pinch the ball ends with pliers to free them up. They and the hinge pins are pretty tight and it will help break in. The droop screws will make the hinge pin tight but it will free up. Some fellas are reaming the droop screw hole to a size I can not recall. I guess it makes break in instant.

My first build I didn't use the shims in the diffs. They work freer and break in is quicker. but the out drives started wobbling after a few days of racing so I would recommend just putting them on from the start. That's what I did on this build.
I didn't use the shock oils but on this build but I did use the diff lube. It worked fine on its first outing so far. This was my second build of this kit BTW.

In all honesty you can build the kit box stock by the book and its really solid. Just be sure to have a servo saver top ready just in case.
Picked up a used 3.0e myself -- thanks for the tips!!!

Has anyone ever tried to replace the cva joint pins? I see mugen makes some.

http://www.amain.com/product_info.ph...38mm-Joint-Pin
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