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Old 06-18-2014, 08:57 AM   #2161
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Originally Posted by Salkin View Post
If you never crash or others never run into you, the following would not be needed, if not, I would recommend the following:

- Front hinge pins,

- Front shock shafts (maybe also for rear),

- Spare front and rear suspension arms,

- Rear hub carriers, if you do not upgrade to the alu part,

- A complete set of bearings in case you have one failing,

And last, but not least, get the 45T metal spur gear to replace the 43T plastic spur gear. This would maybe even be a first priority.

Or maybe just bring happy and joy to your LHS, go buy a complete kit as a spare
Assuming you have a good gear mesh the plastic gear should be fine. I have used them for quite a while. Only time I stripped one is a slip in gear mesh (my fault use thread lock for motor mount screws). Otherwise the plastic gear is fine. Metal spurs make the car sound like a chian saw and will last longer but do not solve the problem of obtaining a good gear mesh.

Yes the car is strong as heck. I agree bearings and hinge pins are good to have as well as shock shafts. The rest of it is always good to have on hand so I don't disagree with the list but I would be suprised to see you need arms until the stock ones just flat wear out.
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Old 06-18-2014, 07:22 PM   #2162
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Even with proper mesh sometimes the plastic spur gear just strips. Mainly if you have one of those landing where you want to hammer down. Losi one seems crappier than other brands. I'd suggest the metal spur gear from the start. Strip two plastic ones and you have paid for the metal one. Definitely louder but not horrible.
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Old 06-18-2014, 09:39 PM   #2163
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This is one of those nonsense debates... and mesh is only part of the culprit like said above.
And really... complaining about noise... I'm not even gonna digress...
If the plastic spur works for you then great and keep using it but after breaking your 1st plastic spur and you get someone else to help set your mesh that doesn't have problems with the plastic spur... and break the 2nd one.
Then do yourself a favor and get a metal spur and don't listen to what works for others, just worry about finishing races.
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Old 06-18-2014, 09:51 PM   #2164
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+1
This is one of those nonsense debates... and mesh is only part of the culprit like said above.
And really... complaining about noise... I'm not even gonna digress...
If the plastic spur works for you then great and keep using it but after breaking your 1st plastic spur and you get someone else to help set your mesh that doesn't have problems with the plastic spur... and break the 2nd one.
Then do yourself a favor and get a metal spur and don't listen to what works for others, just worry about finishing races.
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Old 06-19-2014, 01:43 AM   #2165
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Even with proper mesh sometimes the plastic spur gear just strips. Mainly if you have one of those landing where you want to hammer down. Losi one seems crappier than other brands. I'd suggest the metal spur gear from the start. Strip two plastic ones and you have paid for the metal one. Definitely louder but not horrible.
That's pretty much what happened to me, gear mesh was actually really good, pinion was brand new and I got less then 10 minutes from It, the motor didn't even move, nothing was loose. It just simply stripped. Not a single sign of giving up. It just stripped .

I've had less then one race meet on my 3.0e so far... Yes! Less than a race meet! And I'm already having 2nd thoughts on the car, it's not the best car I've ever driven, but it really doesn't suit my driving style, and I've already had some problems with it... Stripped the plastic spur in 5 minutes, already had some loose screws, had a front shocks drop it's oil everywhere... It's really not what I expected it to be, maybe that's why there's only 5 losi drivers here, one being a factory driver, and even one of those people is selling his for Mugen... I might even keep my mugen gear and run nitro again.....

Last edited by Cody102; 06-19-2014 at 03:30 AM.
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Old 06-19-2014, 07:09 AM   #2166
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3.0e is the best car I've driven. We have 30 to 60 buggies every weekend and half are TLR.
I've ran my buggy every weekend since March and tear it down every week to clean it. My stock plastic spur is holding up just fine.
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Old 06-19-2014, 07:20 AM   #2167
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I think there are some areas to look at why the spur fails for some people and not others. What motor people are running and how they are driving the car is probably the number one factor. If you are running a 1900kv motor on a track and can drive the plastic spur seems to work just fine. It is very easy for a guy with Ebuggy to just yank on the throttle and drive the car harder than he needs to. Plus a 1900kv motor is still over powered on some tracks. If your running over 1900 then your not really driving a race car. Non of the pros are running anything over 1900. Many are going to 1700 for outdoor.

Just some info to think about. I have yet to smoke a plastic gear with a 1900.
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Old 06-19-2014, 07:54 AM   #2168
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I think there are some areas to look at why the spur fails for some people and not others. What motor people are running and how they are driving the car is probably the number one factor. If you are running a 1900kv motor on a track and can drive the plastic spur seems to work just fine. It is very easy for a guy with Ebuggy to just yank on the throttle and drive the car harder than he needs to. Plus a 1900kv motor is still over powered on some tracks. If your running over 1900 then your not really driving a race car. Non of the pros are running anything over 1900. Many are going to 1700 for outdoor.

Just some info to think about. I have yet to smoke a plastic gear with a 1900.
In our part of the world, and on our tracks (medium-large, dusty, bumpy, real blown out dirt off road tracks), several of the best e buggy drivers have changed their 1800kv Hobbywing motors to 2200kv motors, because they felt that the 1800kv motor did not provide enough power.

My 9 year old son races e buggy and ran with a 2200kv Hobbywing combo with punch set to medium. Many told us it was too powerful, and we bought a 1800kv motor to try it out. On the two tracks, on which he is most familiar with and are consistently fast, the 1800kv motor gave consistently slower lap times.

The 1800kv was geared higher (a couple of tooth) and punch was set a notch higher.

He ran it for a while, but could not get his lap times down to his previous level.

We put back the 2200kv motor and instantly he was faster and back to "normal" level.

So, in our opinion, and several of the pro racers here, 2200kv are better than 1800kv, and definately 1700kv.
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Old 06-19-2014, 08:41 AM   #2169
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In our part of the world, and on our tracks (medium-large, dusty, bumpy, real blown out dirt off road tracks), several of the best e buggy drivers have changed their 1800kv Hobbywing motors to 2200kv motors, because they felt that the 1800kv motor did not provide enough power.

My 9 year old son races e buggy and ran with a 2200kv Hobbywing combo with punch set to medium. Many told us it was too powerful, and we bought a 1800kv motor to try it out. On the two tracks, on which he is most familiar with and are consistently fast, the 1800kv motor gave consistently slower lap times.

The 1800kv was geared higher (a couple of tooth) and punch was set a notch higher.

He ran it for a while, but could not get his lap times down to his previous level.

We put back the 2200kv motor and instantly he was faster and back to "normal" level.

So, in our opinion, and several of the pro racers here, 2200kv are better than 1800kv, and definately 1700kv.
That is a 9 year old with some skills! A lot of use run the Tekin T8i 1950kv motor around here for indoor 8th scale. More than enough power for indoor racing and smoooooooth. Drake runs the Tekin 1900kv on his ebuggy for nitro tracks. If you have a large track you can probably get away with the 2200 but that is a LOT of motor.
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Old 06-19-2014, 08:50 AM   #2170
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That is a 9 year old with some skills! A lot of use run the Tekin T8i 1950kv motor around here for indoor 8th scale. More than enough power for indoor racing and smoooooooth. Drake runs the Tekin 1900kv on his ebuggy for nitro tracks. If you have a large track you can probably get away with the 2200 but that is a LOT of motor.
Well, it is a nine year old who are currently in third position in the national E buggy class

His buggy are geared 15T/45T and he runs a modified Dakotah Phend setup.
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Old 06-19-2014, 09:29 AM   #2171
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Well, it is a nine year old who are currently in third position in the national E buggy class

His buggy are geared 15T/45T and he runs a modified Dakotah Phend setup.
That was not a negative. Awesome he is getting it done. Good to see young up and commers! If he can use the power and stay consistant than keep doing what you are doing. My point was for the average guy a 1900 range motor is more than enough. I see lots of guys over power there ebuggies and have a hard time controlling them.
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Old 06-19-2014, 01:03 PM   #2172
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my steering rod is matched up to the same measurement on the book and for some reason 1 of my wheels is turned to 1 side while the other is straight, both of them aren't straight forward at the same time. anyone know my problem?
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Old 06-19-2014, 02:37 PM   #2173
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my steering rod is matched up to the same measurement on the book and for some reason 1 of my wheels is turned to 1 side while the other is straight, both of them aren't straight forward at the same time. anyone know my problem?
Those measurements are just to get you in the ballpark when building the car.
Center your servo with power on and attach the servo horn where you wheels are pointing as straight as it's gonna get.
Then adjust the length of the steering rod to get the wheels even closer to 100% straight and if need be finish with radio trim.
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Old 06-19-2014, 05:11 PM   #2174
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1 wheel was straight when i put the servo horn on and then i straighten the other one by adjusting the steering rod and then centered it out with radio trim to perfect
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Old 06-20-2014, 10:10 AM   #2175
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I have an 1800kv Hobbywing motor. I run the 45T metal spur gear.

Would a 19T pinion be too much?
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