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Old 05-20-2014, 07:02 AM   #1996
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Originally Posted by akshayp14 View Post
i tried 555, 575, 572,573 775, 773 and i found 772 works the best for me..
772 was great in my 2.0 and is what I ran. Matter of fact I know most at our track are running that combo. In my 3.0 I am getting to much front wheel spin. I really think I want to move the battery forward and try to get rid of the tires spinning up front. 2 in the rear really makes the rear rotate better IMO.
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Old 05-20-2014, 08:55 AM   #1997
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considering the 3.0E is out since a few months now, how is the wear/ slop of parts?

any optional parts needed?
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Old 05-20-2014, 09:31 AM   #1998
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considering the 3.0E is out since a few months now, how is the wear/ slop of parts?

any optional parts needed?
Bearings (outer wheel bearings and center diff bearings especially), dog bone pins, "forward" outdrive in center dif.

Chassis plate (not wearing skidplates).

Upgraded to alu steering arm.
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Old 05-20-2014, 09:35 AM   #1999
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Is everyone shimming their rear differential/bearing inserts as the manual states? I am building my second e 3.0 kit and it came with waaaayyyy more shims compared to when I bought one last December.
I do. No problems with rear diff.

Have added some shims to the center diff though on my "oldest" E 3.0 so that the spur gear doesn't have much play.
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Old 05-20-2014, 10:01 AM   #2000
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Yes we were. Tyler tq'd and won ebuggy that weekend.
I thought that was you. I was talking to you in the hobby shop about what weight oil to run in my shocks on my truggy.
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Old 05-20-2014, 10:30 AM   #2001
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Salkin....how do you like the 2200 in your 3.0? I have the SCT Pro and HW2250 in my 2.0, but it just seems way over powered for our track. Didn't really think that til I drove my 3.0 with a 1900 in it.

Thought about this http://www.falconsekido.com/products/xbm-4274sl-lt for the 3.0 when its actually available and using the 2250 in my 8T 2.0.
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Old 05-20-2014, 12:21 PM   #2002
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Originally Posted by Pulse_ View Post
considering the 3.0E is out since a few months now, how is the wear/ slop of parts?

any optional parts needed?
The wear is pretty good, nothing out of the ordinary. Upgraded to an aluminum servo saver arm, rear hubs and kick plate, mostly for the bling. Before that though I only broke on spindle racing in the cold.
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Old 05-20-2014, 01:14 PM   #2003
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I thought that was you. I was talking to you in the hobby shop about what weight oil to run in my shocks on my truggy.
Yep I remember you. Always glad to help everyone I can.
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Old 05-20-2014, 03:54 PM   #2004
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Originally Posted by Brushless Corey View Post
Salkin....how do you like the 2200 in your 3.0? I have the SCT Pro and HW2250 in my 2.0, but it just seems way over powered for our track. Didn't really think that til I drove my 3.0 with a 1900 in it.

Thought about this http://www.falconsekido.com/products/xbm-4274sl-lt for the 3.0 when its actually available and using the 2250 in my 8T 2.0.
Some would say that 2200kv is too much for a buggy, but me and my son (9 years old) uses the 2200kv motor with no problem.

We use a 45T spur and a 14T-15T pinion, punch set medium in the esc, and I just cannot see how this is too much power.

Careful throttle control. And compared to the top notch nitro guys our buggies are not faster down the strait.
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Old 05-21-2014, 02:20 AM   #2005
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Yep I remember you. Always glad to help everyone I can.
And I appreciate it. I changed up the suspension on my 8T this past weekend and it seems to be better. Still have some things I'm going to try out. I have the grey springs up front and black on the rear. The front seems kind of stiff. I'll get it figured out.

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Originally Posted by Salkin View Post
Some would say that 2200kv is too much for a buggy, but me and my son (9 years old) uses the 2200kv motor with no problem.

We use a 45T spur and a 14T-15T pinion, punch set medium in the esc, and I just cannot see how this is too much power.

Careful throttle control. And compared to the top notch nitro guys our buggies are not faster down the strait.
I'm not one of them to say that. I have the HW 2250 and SCT Pro in my 8E 2.0. I believe I'm running 45T spur and 16T pinion. Its a challenge to drive, but I like having that "on the edge feeling" with it. I have a 1900 in my 3.0 and I'm definitely more consistent with it.
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Old 05-21-2014, 03:09 AM   #2006
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Originally Posted by UN4RACING View Post
772 was great in my 2.0 and is what I ran. Matter of fact I know most at our track are running that combo. In my 3.0 I am getting to much front wheel spin. I really think I want to move the battery forward and try to get rid of the tires spinning up front. 2 in the rear really makes the rear rotate better IMO.
very interesting!

i guess i don't really notice any wheel spin and i ran my lipo full foward (its very small - 400grams)

i may be wrong but won't the wheel spin of the front wheels be controlled by the center diff oil?
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Old 05-21-2014, 05:38 AM   #2007
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very interesting!

i guess i don't really notice any wheel spin and i ran my lipo full foward (its very small - 400grams)

i may be wrong but won't the wheel spin of the front wheels be controlled by the center diff oil?
Yes that is true but in a dead straight pull the weight force will give the front more pull. Low speed steering and high speed steering will increase as well. I practiced with 3 other 2.0 kits yesterday. It was visible in difference. My weight will be here tonight. If it's not a significant improvement then the battery will get moved. Although I have the kit working very well as is. Looking forward to see how it competes in the upcoming trophy race as is.
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Old 05-21-2014, 05:45 AM   #2008
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BTW I am running a traditional 573 right now so front wheel spin is going to happen but it's an excessive amount. While the other 3 are running 772 All 3 2.o's are 2 sons and there father.
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Old 05-21-2014, 05:48 AM   #2009
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And I am happy to say my shocks did not leak. I took the shim out between the o-rings. Way smoother. It 80+ degrees and used 45 weight TLR. It was dialed. CSI red pistons.
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Old 05-21-2014, 07:03 AM   #2010
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Originally Posted by UN4RACING View Post
772 was great in my 2.0 and is what I ran. Matter of fact I know most at our track are running that combo. In my 3.0 I am getting to much front wheel spin. I really think I want to move the battery forward and try to get rid of the tires spinning up front. 2 in the rear really makes the rear rotate better IMO.
I've been fooling around with a couple setups / chassis - I noticed my 2.0 converted w/ the battery forward did turn harder on and off throttle - then my Tekno V4 converted losi with battery just set back like the 3.0 - to make it turn the same I used stick on wheel weights on the front rock guards - yet I bought a converted 3.0 buggy and it feels like it wants to push out in the turns when coming in fast on power and even off if I don't brake into the turn.

Now I have a true 3.0e and have it dialed but could use more on and off power steering.

I've looked at Drakes indoor setup and can't figure out how he has the battery tray forward - also the brass weight is 40g I believe - I may try some wheel weights up front first and then move the battery - if its not a botched mod - if you have any pics please post them and let us know how the race goes.
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