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Old 04-05-2014, 09:32 PM   #1651
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I guess so! Mine broke on a clean landing on the big triple. Oh well.... Wade said he broke one on his e buggy to. I wonder if I had my servo saver too tight since the manual doesn't tell you how much to tighten it?
The E 3.0 manual states on page 11:

"Tighten the servo saver nut all the way down, then back off 5 1/2 turns"
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Old 04-05-2014, 09:50 PM   #1652
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The 3.0 arms are also different. I would highly recommend buying a 3.0 if possible. I have driven a 2.0 in the past an never really cared for it, but the 3.0 drives very different in the best way possible. I just cant imagine that changkng the shocks and tower wojld get you anywhere neer to the 3.0....
I have a new 2.0 that has never been ran yet. I paid half of what I would've paid for a new 3.0. I will just do what I can with what I have and do my best to make it work....with or without the 3.0 shocks. I just figured I'd ask. Thanks for the response though.
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Old 04-05-2014, 09:55 PM   #1653
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I have a new 2.0 that has never been ran yet. I paid half of what I would've paid for a new 3.0. I will just do what I can with what I have and do my best to make it work....with or without the 3.0 shocks. I just figured I'd ask. Thanks for the response though.
I run the E 3.0 and my son runs the 2.0 EU converted. He could choose whichever car he wanted. He chose the 2.0, because he liked it better for his driving style.

So don't be too discouraged, and maybe try not to "ruin" the still brilliant 2.0 by making some kind of a 2.0/3.0 hybrid.
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Old 04-05-2014, 11:25 PM   #1654
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The 3.0 arms are different in order to use the 3.0 uprights. If you want to just use the shocks and towers they will work with your 2.0 fine. Like the guys said, best to stick with full 2.0 or 3.0.

I converted my 2.0 to a 3.0 piece by piece and have tried different configurations of 3.0 towers and shocks with 2.0 arms and uprights/spindles, full 3.0 geometry with 2.0 chassis, etc. IMO the 2.0 was better stock and 3.0 is better stock than any hybrid I tried. The last piece of the puzzle was the 3.0 chassis and layout. Once I got there I knew what all the raving was about. Just enjoy the 2.0 or sell it and get a 3.0. Either way they're both great cars.
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Old 04-06-2014, 12:04 AM   #1655
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I run the E 3.0 and my son runs the 2.0 EU converted. He could choose whichever car he wanted. He chose the 2.0, because he liked it better for his driving style.

So don't be too discouraged, and maybe try not to "ruin" the still brilliant 2.0 by making some kind of a 2.0/3.0 hybrid.
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The 3.0 arms are different in order to use the 3.0 uprights. If you want to just use the shocks and towers they will work with your 2.0 fine. Like the guys said, best to stick with full 2.0 or 3.0.

I converted my 2.0 to a 3.0 piece by piece and have tried different configurations of 3.0 towers and shocks with 2.0 arms and uprights/spindles, full 3.0 geometry with 2.0 chassis, etc. IMO the 2.0 was better stock and 3.0 is better stock than any hybrid I tried. The last piece of the puzzle was the 3.0 chassis and layout. Once I got there I knew what all the raving was about. Just enjoy the 2.0 or sell it and get a 3.0. Either way they're both great cars.
I appreciate it guys. I will just stick with the 2.0 layout and just make adjustments where they need to be. I have a guy at the local track that said he will help me set it up the way it should be. He ran a 2.0 for a few years before he got his 3.0 and he has that thing dialed in really good.
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Old 04-06-2014, 05:40 AM   #1656
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I saw a few people recommend it on here when I bought mine so I got one. Seems to be a good upgrade to have for a little extra strength (especially rusty guys like me)..
Highly recommended upgrade. Great insurance policy to run the aluminum part. We've seen the plastic part fail when you least want it to!
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Old 04-08-2014, 12:36 AM   #1657
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Just upgraded my sons 8ight 2.0 EU to an 8ight E 3.0.

We now both drives an 8ight E 3.0.

It brings tears to ones eyes to see such a fine lineup :-)
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Old 04-09-2014, 08:25 PM   #1658
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Do you use the thrust washer behind the retaining pin when building your diffs? If you leave washer out will it leak oil?
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Old 04-09-2014, 08:30 PM   #1659
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Do you use the thrust washer behind the retaining pin when building your diffs? If you leave washer out will it leak oil?
It will not leak out, the new 3.0 T doesn't even come with them
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Old 04-09-2014, 09:09 PM   #1660
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Do you use the thrust washer behind the retaining pin when building your diffs? If you leave washer out will it leak oil?
I have run diffs without the washer, and the diff did not leak.

But I use the washer, just to be safe, and the washer also acts like a shim, so there is not so much outdrive play/slop.
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Old 04-09-2014, 09:41 PM   #1661
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What kind of gearing would i run with a 45 spur and 2050kv motor?
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Old 04-09-2014, 09:42 PM   #1662
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It's a very large outdoor track also.
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Old 04-10-2014, 12:02 AM   #1663
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What kind of gearing would i run with a 45 spur and 2050kv motor?
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It's a very large outdoor track also.
somewhere between 14T - 16T pinion, probably 15T/16T.
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Old 04-10-2014, 08:18 AM   #1664
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Just waiting on my matching wing skins and decals from S1 and i'm ready for some outdoor racing!

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Old 04-10-2014, 08:47 AM   #1665
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I got a deal on a Tekin 4080 2000kv Gen 2 motor but see now that they are 2 oz. heavier than the 4030 1900 Gen 2. It would probably be best to get the Gen 2, correct? I run on big outdoor tracks.
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