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Old 03-27-2014, 08:42 PM   #1576
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Originally Posted by symmetricon View Post
So looking at Drakes's setup I can't tell the orientation of which way the 1s up and 1s down go...


does the dot up go in the front and the dot down go in the rear?
1's up front outer and 1's down front inner.
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Old 03-27-2014, 08:49 PM   #1577
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1's up front outer and 1's down front inner.
Thanks, that amkes sense. I just didnt want to assume....
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Old 03-28-2014, 07:30 PM   #1578
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Did you use actual TLR oil or the kit oil? This may cause it to feel stiff. The 5 x pistons for the front and rear are really meant for indoor. You will likely like the 8 x setup for outdoor better if that is where you are playing.
What is the part number for the pistons you are talking about for outdoor
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Old 03-29-2014, 12:11 AM   #1579
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i use between 25-32.5wt with the 5 hole pistons outdoor and it seems to work for me, i did however buy the 8 hole pistons when i got the kit and use them in my gas buggy but never found the need for them on the E.

i guess it's just a matter of having the right wt shock oil.
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Old 03-29-2014, 09:58 AM   #1580
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Default 8ight for Sale

My 6 month old Losi 8ight is for sale:

http://www.rctech.net/forum/nebraska...de-thread.html

Available a complete RTR, roller or anything in between. Shoot me a reply!

Robert Conner
TEXT: (402) 215-1388
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Old 03-29-2014, 10:15 PM   #1581
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considering 1/8 scale buggy for the summer. I am partial to Kyosho as I have a Lazer zx5. Unfortunately, the 1/8 from Kyosho seem pricey.

I am curious what cost with this kit I would be looking at, total. I usually buy spares up front.

is it reasonable
esc/motor : 350ish
servo :??
kit : 600ish
battery 4s : 100ish
Spares : really looking for an idea of what others are spending on stocking spares for this kit.
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Old 03-29-2014, 10:55 PM   #1582
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Ok seriously, how long does it take for the camber links/balls to break in and be free....I have two full race days and she still squeekin and stiff!?!
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Old 03-30-2014, 05:39 AM   #1583
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Originally Posted by motoclay View Post
Ok seriously, how long does it take for the camber links/balls to break in and be free....I have two full race days and she still squeekin and stiff!?!
A VERY long time. I got mine last September and they are still very snug. Some advise to "squeeze them" prior to putting them together, but I never did this.

Hopefully someone who did the squeezing will chime in and advise on this.
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Old 03-30-2014, 06:03 AM   #1584
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Squeezing the makes a HUGE difference.
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Old 03-30-2014, 12:37 PM   #1585
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Ok seriously, how long does it take for the camber links/balls to break in and be free....I have two full race days and she still squeekin and stiff!?!
I pinched mine initially when I first built the kit and they felt loose but after racing two weeks they actually got worse with the dirt. After that I went home and this time really used pliers to bend them around (almost to much it seemed) but it's PERFECT now! I also used a tumbler on the balls to help polish and loosen things up but if you use enough pressure with pliers, you'll be fine..
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Old 03-30-2014, 01:07 PM   #1586
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What body are most of you running?

I like the OEM body but hate the way it comes pre-cut....anyone have luck with any others but still fit the E 3.0 chassis?

I want to have a couple extra painted but want to make sure they will fit properly first!
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Old 03-30-2014, 01:59 PM   #1587
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What's wrong with the pre-cut bodies? Seem to fit very well. One tip is to chop the nose of it off that goes through the front shock tower. If you don't when the chassis flexes on a bad landing it will rip the front off at the body mount hole. With my current body I chopped of the nose and double layered drywall tape and shoe goo on the body mount holes. Seems to be holding up well.

Side note: I do hate the way Losi nitro bodies comes pre-cut. Plenty of people converting the truggy to electric that would prefer the body not to be pre-cut.
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Old 03-30-2014, 02:36 PM   #1588
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So I got to run my buggy for the first time this weekend at the Roar nats warm up race and it was stellar with drakes setup with a few tweeks. I decided to make the switch from my HB D812 which I really loved...
The new proline ions are money!
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Old 03-30-2014, 09:23 PM   #1589
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Originally Posted by kcobra View Post
What's wrong with the pre-cut bodies? Seem to fit very well. One tip is to chop the nose of it off that goes through the front shock tower. If you don't when the chassis flexes on a bad landing it will rip the front off at the body mount hole. With my current body I chopped of the nose and double layered drywall tape and shoe goo on the body mount holes. Seems to be holding up well.

Side note: I do hate the way Losi nitro bodies comes pre-cut. Plenty of people converting the truggy to electric that would prefer the body not to be pre-cut.
To add on that, I don't think they leave enough material on the nose which also makes the body weaker and more prone to flexing or stretching and breaking off. I also prefer to cut it myself plus I like having extra material when painting to test.

Quote:
Originally Posted by symmetricon View Post
So I got to run my buggy for the first time this weekend at the Roar nats warm up race and it was stellar with drakes setup with a few tweeks. I decided to make the switch from my HB D812 which I really loved...
The new proline ions are money!
I was also present, which car was yours?
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Old 03-30-2014, 09:27 PM   #1590
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To add on that, I don't think they leave enough material on the nose which also makes the body weaker and more prone to flexing or stretching and breaking off. I also prefer to cut it myself plus I like having extra material when painting to test.



I was also present, which car was yours?
pink and green, i qualified 9th and finished 7th. i put myself into 4th and 5th in two different mains but dorked it up.... it was all me, not the car.
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