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Old 03-13-2014, 08:54 AM   #1531
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Many will say you need a high c rating, the truth is you don't. I will be running the ecopower 4100 4s with 35c rating. 12 minute run time and only 54 bucks at amain. 2-2s will fit if you lay them on there sides with the bullets parallel to the chassis. I ran nanotech 5600s with a tq side bullet as the jumper wire.
35C is about the bottom and some batteries will damage an ESC if the C rating is too low, or can't hold what it claims. It's just like putting 87 octane in a car that calls for 91, chances are it will knock and eventually blow up.
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Old 03-13-2014, 09:28 AM   #1532
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Originally Posted by maddog9 View Post
Many will say you need a high c rating, the truth is you don't. I will be running the ecopower 4100 4s with 35c rating. 12 minute run time and only 54 bucks at amain. 2-2s will fit if you lay them on there sides with the bullets parallel to the chassis. I ran nanotech 5600s with a tq side bullet as the jumper wire.
True i used those same 4100 35c packs in e-buggy all last season with no issues.

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35C is about the bottom and some batteries will damage an ESC if the C rating is too low, or can't hold what it claims. It's just like putting 87 octane in a car that calls for 91, chances are it will knock and eventually blow up.
I don't think it's as necessary in e-buggy as it is in some classes (ie; 4wd sct). The efficiency is much higher with 4s setups than 2s so you can get by with lesser batteries. Just like i stated above how i did for a whole season and i am still using the same esc with no problems.

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The diff fluids are great and what we normally use. The shock oil is different than what we package here in the US and so we typically tell people to use our regular packaged shock oils.
What shock oils would you reccomend for a good overall starting point? I only have ae oils and i've heard they differ a bit in viscosity compared to losi oils. Thanks.
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Old 03-13-2014, 02:33 PM   #1533
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Default Center Diff Play

What is the recommended center diff play (forward/rearward) not teeth mesh?
The total play is 1mm on mine. It is one month old. 3 days at the track. I built it to the book with shim/spacers. I am cleaning it and noticed alot for front to back play. No issue on the track yet, but wondering.

Thanks,

Turbo
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Old 03-13-2014, 02:44 PM   #1534
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Default Servo saver top

I have broken two of the plastic servo saver tops now. Will the aluminum one from the 2.0 work? The new TLR part number isn't due until late April.

Thanks
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Old 03-13-2014, 03:40 PM   #1535
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I have broken two of the plastic servo saver tops now. Will the aluminum one from the 2.0 work? The new TLR part number isn't due until late April.

Thanks

The one from the 2.0 works as long as you use the typical ackerman link which is the longer one.
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Old 03-13-2014, 03:53 PM   #1536
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Originally Posted by skyler hays View Post
I have broken two of the plastic servo saver tops now. Will the aluminum one from the 2.0 work? The new TLR part number isn't due until late April.

Thanks
You can run the 2.0 aluminum top and grind it out where the Ackerman would rub.
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Old 03-14-2014, 05:27 PM   #1537
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Originally Posted by maddog9 View Post
You can run the 2.0 aluminum top and grind it out where the Ackerman would rub.
+1
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Old 03-15-2014, 04:28 PM   #1538
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Originally Posted by Turbo911 View Post
What is the recommended center diff play (forward/rearward) not teeth mesh?
The total play is 1mm on mine. It is one month old. 3 days at the track. I built it to the book with shim/spacers. I am cleaning it and noticed alot for front to back play. No issue on the track yet, but wondering.

Thanks,

Turbo
I've got at least 2mm of play in my center diff. It walks back and forth a bit and doesn't seem normal. How much play should there be? Should the center diff be shimmed at all?

EDIT: I just found TLR242008 - shim and spacer set

Also switched from the plastic to metal spur...totally different sound! I hope it grows on me.
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Last edited by Deacon_8T; 03-15-2014 at 04:42 PM. Reason: Added tlr242008
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Old 03-15-2014, 04:44 PM   #1539
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I've got at least 2mm of play in my center diff. It walks back and forth a bit and doesn't seem normal. How much play should there be? Should the center diff be shimmed at all?

Also switched from the plastic to metal spur...totally different sound! I hope it grows on me.
I recently had my center diff out. When I put it back together with no shims I noticed it had a bit of play. 1 shim took care of it. Figured 1 shim would make it too tight, but it was perfect. Try a shim or two if you have any. edit: I thought I was on the scte thread. My bad. 8ight is pretty similar though.
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Old 03-15-2014, 06:13 PM   #1540
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Not nearly as much traffic on here as the tekno threads. It's weird not getting a response within an hour or so.
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Old 03-15-2014, 07:49 PM   #1541
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What shock oils would you reccomend for a good overall starting point? I only have ae oils and i've heard they differ a bit in viscosity compared to losi oils. Thanks.
I swapped the stock pistons around from box set up. 1.5 front 40wt / 1.4 rear 25wt. (losi oil)

Here is a conversion chart:
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Old 03-17-2014, 04:22 AM   #1542
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Not nearly as much traffic on here as the tekno threads. It's weird not getting a response within an hour or so.
That's because my kid just cleaned house in Ohio with prolly 90% of the cars being the Hekno cars!! Lol!! Did it in Pro4 too!!
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Old 03-19-2014, 07:46 AM   #1543
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I have a small issue/problem. My rear gear box is smooth until I get to a small section of the crown gear, it gets very rough and binds a tiny bit. Will this "wear" in or should I pull it apart? I ran it in my driveway, I still feel it when I free spin the drivetrain.
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Old 03-19-2014, 08:20 AM   #1544
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I have a small issue/problem. My rear gear box is smooth until I get to a small section of the crown gear, it gets very rough and binds a tiny bit. Will this "wear" in or should I pull it apart? I ran it in my driveway, I still feel it when I free spin the drivetrain.
Yeah, this will wear in some.
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Old 03-19-2014, 10:27 AM   #1545
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Yeah, this will wear in some.
Ok thank you
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