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Old 03-11-2014, 07:20 PM   #1516
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Also one more question, can some one post a picture of the Tekin gen2 speedo and how they have it soldered? Are you guys running the fan or not? Thanks!!
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Old 03-11-2014, 07:45 PM   #1517
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Does anyone have the product number on the new and improved shock boots? Thanks for any info!
243031 for the buggies.
243032 for the truggies.
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drepus???? it's "superd" backwards since it was taken!
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Old 03-11-2014, 08:21 PM   #1518
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ok, so after weeks and months of research and shopping I finally bought this car.

I had already asked some questions about gearing, but is was on 1900kv. After all of my research I chose to go 6s and 1400kv.

So....I have to ask again about gearing. I'm a little nervous not having it geared properly. I work with electric motors and so forth at work and I know that you can over load them if not gear right. I have my nitro gearing down and it all makes sense. I'm applying the same principal on the electric side, but the pinions and spurs are much different in size to the nitro.

So what are you guys, on 6s and 1400, setting up with? I'm looking for nice bark off the corner but also want my temps as low as possible. A baseline set up is really what im after.

I can take it from there and play with it. Ive looked at the losi page for set ups, but for some reason I either don't see them or they wont tell me GEARING, everything else is there, but pinion/spur I guess im missing somewhere.
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Old 03-12-2014, 04:38 AM   #1519
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Can you give me advice if I wanted it to try and do 100mph or over on the road for speed runs what Tekin combo and what gearing i'd need has anyone done this and is it possible???
Most of my driving will be on road.
Buy an XO-1 if you want to go 100 MPH. This vehicle was never designed to do this. You'll get far too much downforce from the rear wing, and that will lift the front taking away your steering. We know this because we put a 21 and 23 pinion on a HPI Vorza on 6s and preceded to destroy it. It was hauling ass, but the front lifted and it did a blowover at a speed that had to be around 100. Having no front wing to keep the front planted will likely result your vehicle's demise if you attempt this.
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Old 03-12-2014, 06:22 AM   #1520
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On the setup sheet when it says "Rear Hub Spacing Back" does that mean the hubs are all the way back or the spacers are in the back and the hubs are forward?
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Old 03-12-2014, 07:08 AM   #1521
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Yes on hub spacing.
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Old 03-12-2014, 07:18 AM   #1522
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On the setup sheet when it says "Rear Hub Spacing Back" does that mean the hubs are all the way back or the spacers are in the back and the hubs are forward?
Most of the time the hubs are run all the way back. All the spacers in the front.
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drepus???? it's "superd" backwards since it was taken!
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Old 03-12-2014, 09:37 AM   #1523
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Originally Posted by motoclay View Post
ok, so after weeks and months of research and shopping I finally bought this car.

I had already asked some questions about gearing, but is was on 1900kv. After all of my research I chose to go 6s and 1400kv.

So....I have to ask again about gearing. I'm a little nervous not having it geared properly. I work with electric motors and so forth at work and I know that you can over load them if not gear right. I have my nitro gearing down and it all makes sense. I'm applying the same principal on the electric side, but the pinions and spurs are much different in size to the nitro.

So what are you guys, on 6s and 1400, setting up with? I'm looking for nice bark off the corner but also want my temps as low as possible. A baseline set up is really what im after.

I can take it from there and play with it. Ive looked at the losi page for set ups, but for some reason I either don't see them or they wont tell me GEARING, everything else is there, but pinion/spur I guess im missing somewhere.
I've been running a 15t pinion, stock 43t spur in my 8ight-e 3.0 on a large track with the Tekin 1400kv motor and 6s. I believe that is in the ballpark of pretty much what everyone is running when doing a 1400kv/6s combo or a 1900kv/4s combo.
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Old 03-12-2014, 06:36 PM   #1524
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Originally Posted by Rockthecatbox21 View Post
Ok so after reading the first page it's apparent that this thread serves a dual purpose for both the true kit and the conversions (like it was originally). I ordered my 3.0 today and was wondering about any build tips i should know. I've built the 3.0 nitro but i was wondering there was any special tricks you guys do to the E version. All the 3.0's i've seen in person seem to have really heavily dampened front shocks. Should i start off 5wt lower than what the manual reccomends or should i leave it stock? Also i heard there was video out there by a team driver showing how to condition the ball links so they do not bind. A link would be appreciated. My setup will be tekin 1900 gen 2, hobbywing sct-pro, smc 5000 50C packs (worked fantastic in e-truggy) and a futaba S9352HV servo. Can't wait to get this thing. Thanks.
Here is the video for the captured links:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_jV_175FxYY

I was told not to use the fluids that come with the kit. I guess they are thicker than what they are labeled as. Not sure if that has been corrected with the recent batch of kits.
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Old 03-12-2014, 07:05 PM   #1525
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What do the x rings for the shocks do? Better then orings?
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Old 03-12-2014, 07:23 PM   #1526
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Originally Posted by KIK View Post
Here is the video for the captured links:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_jV_175FxYY

I was told not to use the fluids that come with the kit. I guess they are thicker than what they are labeled as. Not sure if that has been corrected with the recent batch of kits.
Thank you.
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Old 03-12-2014, 07:55 PM   #1527
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What size 4s lipo fits under the stock body? I am running two 2s in a series and it's too tall. What c rating do I need in a 4s?
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Old 03-13-2014, 12:54 AM   #1528
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What size 4s lipo fits under the stock body? I am running two 2s in a series and it's too tall. What c rating do I need in a 4s?
I put 2x2s lipos on the side. Not on top of each other. The 2x2s pack is a little taller than wider.

Like in the picture i attached. In the picture the lipos are stacked perfectly besides each other, but I actually have them a little displaced from each other, one a little further back or forth than the other so that the wiring extrudes from only one side. I don't like to have the wires on the center diff side.

Depending on how you want your wires, you may have to cut a little out of the battery tray sides. But I have arranged it so i don't need to cut.
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Old 03-13-2014, 08:22 AM   #1529
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Originally Posted by skyler hays View Post
What size 4s lipo fits under the stock body? I am running two 2s in a series and it's too tall. What c rating do I need in a 4s?
Many will say you need a high c rating, the truth is you don't. I will be running the ecopower 4100 4s with 35c rating. 12 minute run time and only 54 bucks at amain. 2-2s will fit if you lay them on there sides with the bullets parallel to the chassis. I ran nanotech 5600s with a tq side bullet as the jumper wire.
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Old 03-13-2014, 08:34 AM   #1530
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Originally Posted by KIK View Post
Here is the video for the captured links:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_jV_175FxYY

I was told not to use the fluids that come with the kit. I guess they are thicker than what they are labeled as. Not sure if that has been corrected with the recent batch of kits.
The diff fluids are great and what we normally use. The shock oil is different than what we package here in the US and so we typically tell people to use our regular packaged shock oils.
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