5LikesAssociated SC10.2 Factory Team
12-21-2014, 11:42 AM
#3376
Tech Adept
iTrader: (3)
I run the AE ball diff. Super easy to adjust and its consistent from the start of the race to the end. Unlike gear diffs as the oil heats up.
To check my ball diff setting, i spin the rear tires opposite one another with a quick spin. I usually mark one of the insides of the tires and count how many revolutions it made. I find myself around .75 (tight)to 1.5 (medium)turns of the tire after I release it from the spin.
To check my ball diff setting, i spin the rear tires opposite one another with a quick spin. I usually mark one of the insides of the tires and count how many revolutions it made. I find myself around .75 (tight)to 1.5 (medium)turns of the tire after I release it from the spin.
12-22-2014, 06:47 AM
#3377
Ok so I raced my new SC10.2 yesterday for the first time (havent raced or ran short course in a few months) and it was absolutely dialed and on rails. I had to run with mod guys in pro2 bc there wasn't enough stock guys and I missed the first qual, TQed the second and beat my TQ in the third by 3 seconds and took the win. I ran a shorty battery with 2ozs at the back of the battery tray. I honestly don't think I need or want a stick pack. The truck feels soo good. Running Due's setup with 4th hole in the rear and Losi Yellow low freq springs (2.06 vs white 2.10) also ran Clay Electrons all the way around and they were absolutely amazing!
12-22-2014, 12:55 PM
#3378
looking for indoor carpet offroad setup
my indoor offroad track just went to carpet offroad with jumps and wall ride ect. looking for a good starting point on setup on my sc10.2 any help would be appreciated
12-22-2014, 02:34 PM
#3379
Egads track owners!!!! Stick with dirt!!!
I ran sway bars front (1.4mm) and rear (AE black) with dBoots Nanobytes front and rear. I tried a gear diff but I never got it to feel as good as the ball diff. Unfortunately, I burned through a ball diff with a 7.5 motor in about 2 weeks of racing. Usually you tune until you start to traction roll and then back off.
I ran sway bars front (1.4mm) and rear (AE black) with dBoots Nanobytes front and rear. I tried a gear diff but I never got it to feel as good as the ball diff. Unfortunately, I burned through a ball diff with a 7.5 motor in about 2 weeks of racing. Usually you tune until you start to traction roll and then back off.
12-22-2014, 02:51 PM
#3380
I have a couple of questions. Before Indoor season kicked off I switched over to a gear diff because I couldn't really set my ball diff at all and it seemed like it always needed to be rebuilt. I ran a B-Fast diff the last time and it lasted a lot longer. I just built my B5M and put a B-Fast diff in it and it is as smooth as silk. I bought a new ball diff for my SC10. My questions are what is your preference(ball or gear), how long do you wait to service your ball diff, and how do you set your ball diff? Any help would be great!
For mod, the BFast rings, carbide main balls and ceramic thrust provides a very smooth, long-life unit.
Follow the break in instructions in the BFast package. Lube everything, assemble it, (ensure you pre-compress a new spring with pliers); spin the diff with a drill slowly for a few revs ea. side.
Tighten it down (gently); then loosen 1/16 of a turn. Basically bump it down and just barely back it off. Preference is to go full tight; loosen 1/8 and retighten 1/16.
If it's set properly, the diff should be tight enough to roll the motor stator sometimes with a good "flip" of the tire.
SCT likes to have the diff set a bit tighter than an ST or buggy.
12-22-2014, 03:52 PM
#3381
For mod, the BFast rings, carbide main balls and ceramic thrust provides a very smooth, long-life unit.
Follow the break in instructions in the BFast package. Lube everything, assemble it, (ensure you pre-compress a new spring with pliers); spin the diff with a drill slowly for a few revs ea. side.
Tighten it down (gently); then loosen 1/16 of a turn. Basically bump it down and just barely back it off. Preference is to go full tight; loosen 1/8 and retighten 1/16.
If it's set properly, the diff should be tight enough to roll the motor stator sometimes with a good "flip" of the tire.
SCT likes to have the diff set a bit tighter than an ST or buggy.
Follow the break in instructions in the BFast package. Lube everything, assemble it, (ensure you pre-compress a new spring with pliers); spin the diff with a drill slowly for a few revs ea. side.
Tighten it down (gently); then loosen 1/16 of a turn. Basically bump it down and just barely back it off. Preference is to go full tight; loosen 1/8 and retighten 1/16.
If it's set properly, the diff should be tight enough to roll the motor stator sometimes with a good "flip" of the tire.
SCT likes to have the diff set a bit tighter than an ST or buggy.
12-23-2014, 10:26 AM
#3383
Carpet setup would use flat arms/tower on front, shaved U brace/C-hubs
Lower ride height like 29/28 and stiffer springs along with the JConcepts antiswaybar kit.
Lower ride height like 29/28 and stiffer springs along with the JConcepts antiswaybar kit.
12-23-2014, 01:58 PM
#3384
What is the benefit of using the "c" towers and shaving the "U" brace? I know shaving the "U" brace will raise the roll center why not leave the "A" tower on, it's taller than the "C" tower right? "A" tower with no washers under ball stud would yield a higher roll center correct? Still trying to get my head around roll centers. I'm better, but still learning.
12-24-2014, 08:16 AM
#3385
?
What is the benefit of using the "c" towers and shaving the "U" brace? I know shaving the "U" brace will raise the roll center why not leave the "A" tower on, it's taller than the "C" tower right? "A" tower with no washers under ball stud would yield a higher roll center correct? Still trying to get my head around roll centers. I'm better, but still learning.
12-24-2014, 08:33 AM
#3386
If you look at the brace that the rear shock tower mounts on it's shaped like a U.
The area on both sides where the inner camber link mounts is bumped up about 2mm. Some people will grind that area flat to raise the roll center by lowering the camber link mount down.
The area on both sides where the inner camber link mounts is bumped up about 2mm. Some people will grind that area flat to raise the roll center by lowering the camber link mount down.
12-24-2014, 12:41 PM
#3387
Is anybody making a Centro conversion for these? Don't feel like waiting for the SC/T5
12-25-2014, 02:33 PM
#3389
7700kv? I'm guessing sensorless? That would be a handful. The idler gear won't last very long with a 7700kv sensorless setup. I would imagine you would be running 16/87 or somewhere there arounds. I would also guess that you would need to run a fairly loose slipper and you are going to glaze the pads up pretty quick. What electronics setup are you actually running?