rcgod

iTrader: (33)

Make sure the inner bearing is seated on the pinion shaft. Mine was a little hard to seat all the way and the gears were too tight.

Casper

iTrader: (34)

The latest gears have worked pretty good but I would run them in and check it again. May just be some high spots that will break in quickly as you run in the gears.

Josh L

iTrader: (1)

Had the same issue with the rear diff catching. But after a run or two it went away and I haven't had any issues

Austin's dad

I bet this is the issue. Mine did the same thing. Take something and tap the inner bearing further into the case. Should fix it.

Dirtraycer

iTrader: (4)

I would say yes. My brother had the MIP 1.0 truck and switched to the 2.0 and likes it a lot better.

Josh L

iTrader: (1)

Why not just keep the MIP truck and buy a new 2.0? The advantage of one over the other will be finding your ideal tune with each. Unless your a pro I doubt you'll find a significant flaw in either.

Dirtraycer

iTrader: (4)

there is just more adjustability with the 2.0 camber link and shock position. and I believe battery position. He was just able to drive it harder and got faster and more laps with it.

Dirtraycer

iTrader: (4)

I've been running the Dunford OCRC setup on my truck except the 15 deg front spindles and the +5mm rear hex's and my diff oil is 5-7-5. And maybe I'm just not driving it fast enough but it just feels kinda tight in the turns if I went back to the lighter front sway bar and changed my front diff oil to 7k do you think that would "loosen" my truck up some ?? I don't get to race that often and race on a tight budget so I don't always have the money to run out and buy all the new parts and only have a set of Deja-Vu's and a set of Typos both in clay compound. any advice would be appreciated thanks in advance

Cory

JEFFs SC10

iTrader: (15)

do you mean turn in?

I ran on a new fresh track that was low to absolute slick surface. I had to change the shock positions to near vertical and remove both sway bars to gain grip.

never had to do that before, but I could not get the truck to turn.

there are some hairpin 180's that have jumps so I need the acceleration as well.

Lost my front sway bar this weekend LOL.

Dirtraycer

iTrader: (4)

I guess turning period lol seems like the other scte's that I run with has a tighter turning radius and rotate better thru the corners than my truck does.

anr211

iTrader: (11)

First thing I would suggest is talk to the guys that have the scte's that turn better than yours and see what they're doing different.

All the stuff I'm about to list is for an off throttle/low speed situation, if you're looking on throttle steering this stuff will be counter productive to backwards.

If you're looking for more rotation out of the rear you can try lighter rear diff fluid or soften the rear suspension (tip shocks in, softer springs, stuff like that), shortening the rear wheelbase will also add rotation.

If you're looking for more steering out of the front a lighter front sway bar (or no sway bar) will help, also softer front spring or more tipped in front shocks, shorter front camberlink.

Edit: Also make sure you're getting full steering throw https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8mw4rkTeWbQ

Frank Root

iTrader: (25)

If you want more turn-in and rotation, then I'd go with a thinner front bar and maybe thinner oil front and rear. I run 5-5-3 usually at OCRC. Ryan's truck is easier to drive, and mine is a little more aggressive.

Dirtraycer

iTrader: (4)

Thanks for the info. im going to make the adjustments and see what I get lol

Braxamus

iTrader: (9)

I am going to wait to see what his truck does before I change mine...LOL let lil brother be the tester..........

Bserious

iTrader: (12)

Are the setups you TLR guys are using today including the new -3mm chassis?