10LikesTLR TEN-SCTE 2.0 Kit Thread
04-25-2015, 08:13 AM
#8131
For those who buy the new -3mm chassis and who have the MIP pucks center drive with the Kind Headz center diff mounts. Here's a pic of what will have to be ground. Basically take that third leg off. I left a little material just for strength.
I also have the MIP chassis supports which are smaller on the end a bit compared to the stock.
You can also see the rear pucks should have enough room without bottoming out.
I also have the MIP chassis supports which are smaller on the end a bit compared to the stock.
You can also see the rear pucks should have enough room without bottoming out.
Last edited by Fader12; 04-30-2015 at 06:49 PM. Reason: Update1
04-25-2015, 09:26 AM
#8132
Correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't recall anyone going lighter than the factory 5k oil in the front diff on any of the winning setup sheets I have seen.
I have even seen 7k in the front and center, but again not lighter than 5k.
It has always seemed the opposite to what you just suggested in my experience. Maybe also the reason for the factory stock suggestion setting the rear diff with lighter oil than the center or front... If the rear diff is effectively locking/resisting equally to the front, you will always notice under steer and get said push effect.
Seems to me going lighter in the rear would be more effective, or raising up the weight on the front and center.
I have even seen 7k in the front and center, but again not lighter than 5k.
It has always seemed the opposite to what you just suggested in my experience. Maybe also the reason for the factory stock suggestion setting the rear diff with lighter oil than the center or front... If the rear diff is effectively locking/resisting equally to the front, you will always notice under steer and get said push effect.
Seems to me going lighter in the rear would be more effective, or raising up the weight on the front and center.
Make sure you have a good steering servo and tight servo saver. I run mine pretty much locked down because the spring that came with my kit was very weak. Set end points with the truck on the ground at ride height. Make sure the servo saver arm isn't hitting the ackerman link at full throw. My steering link was hitting on my truck, a short spacer between the link and servo saver took care of it. And then there's always the short Ackerman link. It will give the truck all the steering you want but makes it harder to drive. When I ran the mip conversion truck, the only way I could get the steering I wanted was the short link. It works.
04-25-2015, 11:29 AM
#8133
Tech Regular
For those who have the MIP pucks center drive with the Kind Headz center diff mounts. Here's a pic of what will have to be ground. Basically take that third leg off. I left a little material just for strength.
I also have the MIP chassis supports which are smaller one the end a bit compared to the stock.
You can also see the rear pucks should have enough room without bottoming out.
I also have the MIP chassis supports which are smaller one the end a bit compared to the stock.
You can also see the rear pucks should have enough room without bottoming out.
04-25-2015, 11:31 AM
#8134
Tech Regular
Just because you don't see 3k in front on setups doesn't mean it won't work. You also probably won't see setups with no front sway bar either but it does work. Some things to check on your truck before getting too crazy on changes are:
Make sure you have a good steering servo and tight servo saver. I run mine pretty much locked down because the spring that came with my kit was very weak. Set end points with the truck on the ground at ride height. Make sure the servo saver arm isn't hitting the ackerman link at full throw. My steering link was hitting on my truck, a short spacer between the link and servo saver took care of it. And then there's always the short Ackerman link. It will give the truck all the steering you want but makes it harder to drive. When I ran the mip conversion truck, the only way I could get the steering I wanted was the short link. It works.
Make sure you have a good steering servo and tight servo saver. I run mine pretty much locked down because the spring that came with my kit was very weak. Set end points with the truck on the ground at ride height. Make sure the servo saver arm isn't hitting the ackerman link at full throw. My steering link was hitting on my truck, a short spacer between the link and servo saver took care of it. And then there's always the short Ackerman link. It will give the truck all the steering you want but makes it harder to drive. When I ran the mip conversion truck, the only way I could get the steering I wanted was the short link. It works.
04-25-2015, 03:59 PM
#8137
I am pretty sure I never mentioned the sway bars, nor would I argue your point. The setup sheet was just used as a decent example, but if you think I'm gonna buy the fact running lighter oil will help with on power cornering then I guess we are going to have to disagree completely. Doesn't even make since really.
04-25-2015, 05:03 PM
#8138
I am pretty sure I never mentioned the sway bars, nor would I argue your point. The setup sheet was just used as a decent example, but if you think I'm gonna buy the fact running lighter oil will help with on power cornering then I guess we are going to have to disagree completely. Doesn't even make since really.
04-25-2015, 05:43 PM
#8139
anyone know where I could get something to cover the center diff.
especially the spur and pinion.
the track we race at is outside
and on loam.
all it takes is one pebble and there goes the spur
especially the spur and pinion.
the track we race at is outside
and on loam.
all it takes is one pebble and there goes the spur
04-25-2015, 10:06 PM
#8140
But hey I'll give ya the benefit of the doubt and suppose your talking about a restricted roll out due to heavy fluid.
A lot of the times when people have these issues it can be due to a lack of setting up a drag brake and throttle exponential.
I have found the most consistent lap times are mostly made with a slight drag brake setting and a positive throttle expo.
When cornering, the drag brake helps get the inertial energy to roll out on the outside front tire when slowing into a turn, which will help pivot the truck around a tight corner. This is where a sway bar will help prevent traction roll because of to much bite. Of course there are a lot of variables to consider when tuning in drag brake and throttle expo, but once you have a good balanced setup with the proper tires to roll on, you will get a very tight corning setup that will eat any track for lunch.
Just a decent turning radius is not going to make a truck handle that well through turns at different speeds and can actually be over done to the point of slowing you down with drag coefficients and losing stability in higher speeds.
The point is, there is no easy answer to getting all that, but all of it is equally as important to consider in over all balance.
It just seems that people tend to stop at mechanical radius and diff fluids.
Fact is, a simple tire compound can make or break you in a corner. If your traction rolling to much, go with a harder compound or round off the side wall tread, or vice versa for to much sliding. The fine medium is found in the incremental adjustments of everything, rather than big changes of a couple things.
Last edited by Josh L; 04-26-2015 at 12:04 AM.
04-26-2015, 08:13 AM
#8141
A few basic setup questions......
There's a few points of adjustment I just can't figure out on this truck and have looked online but because I'm still green it's hard to find the answers
Bump steer: Where do you adjust that in this truck?
Sway bars: There are two tiny screws on the front bumper where the sway bars run through the front end. Do these get tightened down to hold the bar?
Overall shock length: Is this measured eye to eye or end to end?
15* Caster blocks: I see a lot of people running the on their setup sheets. Out of curiosity what measurement are they adding 15* of angle to?
Bump steer: Where do you adjust that in this truck?
Sway bars: There are two tiny screws on the front bumper where the sway bars run through the front end. Do these get tightened down to hold the bar?
Overall shock length: Is this measured eye to eye or end to end?
15* Caster blocks: I see a lot of people running the on their setup sheets. Out of curiosity what measurement are they adding 15* of angle to?
04-26-2015, 09:27 AM
#8142
There's a few points of adjustment I just can't figure out on this truck and have looked online but because I'm still green it's hard to find the answers
Bump steer: Where do you adjust that in this truck?
Sway bars: There are two tiny screws on the front bumper where the sway bars run through the front end. Do these get tightened down to hold the bar?
Overall shock length: Is this measured eye to eye or end to end?
15* Caster blocks: I see a lot of people running the on their setup sheets. Out of curiosity what measurement are they adding 15* of angle to?
Bump steer: Where do you adjust that in this truck?
Sway bars: There are two tiny screws on the front bumper where the sway bars run through the front end. Do these get tightened down to hold the bar?
Overall shock length: Is this measured eye to eye or end to end?
15* Caster blocks: I see a lot of people running the on their setup sheets. Out of curiosity what measurement are they adding 15* of angle to?
The set screws in the sway bar mounts are for removing play when running different size bars. They should be just tight enough to remove play, but not hinder sway bar movement.
Shock length is measured eye to eye.
15 deg refers to the angle of the upright in relation to the arm. The 15 deg uprights are more laid back than stock.
04-26-2015, 09:34 AM
#8143
Why would a truck "push" off power?
But hey I'll give ya the benefit of the doubt and suppose your talking about a restricted roll out due to heavy fluid.
A lot of the times when people have these issues it can be due to a lack of setting up a drag brake and throttle exponential.
I have found the most consistent lap times are mostly made with a slight drag brake setting and a positive throttle expo.
When cornering, the drag brake helps get the inertial energy to roll out on the outside front tire when slowing into a turn, which will help pivot the truck around a tight corner. This is where a sway bar will help prevent traction roll because of to much bite. Of course there are a lot of variables to consider when tuning in drag brake and throttle expo, but once you have a good balanced setup with the proper tires to roll on, you will get a very tight corning setup that will eat any track for lunch.
Just a decent turning radius is not going to make a truck handle that well through turns at different speeds and can actually be over done to the point of slowing you down with drag coefficients and losing stability in higher speeds.
The point is, there is no easy answer to getting all that, but all of it is equally as important to consider in over all balance.
It just seems that people tend to stop at mechanical radius and diff fluids.
Fact is, a simple tire compound can make or break you in a corner. If your traction rolling to much, go with a harder compound or round off the side wall tread, or vice versa for to much sliding. The fine medium is found in the incremental adjustments of everything, rather than big changes of a couple things.
But hey I'll give ya the benefit of the doubt and suppose your talking about a restricted roll out due to heavy fluid.
A lot of the times when people have these issues it can be due to a lack of setting up a drag brake and throttle exponential.
I have found the most consistent lap times are mostly made with a slight drag brake setting and a positive throttle expo.
When cornering, the drag brake helps get the inertial energy to roll out on the outside front tire when slowing into a turn, which will help pivot the truck around a tight corner. This is where a sway bar will help prevent traction roll because of to much bite. Of course there are a lot of variables to consider when tuning in drag brake and throttle expo, but once you have a good balanced setup with the proper tires to roll on, you will get a very tight corning setup that will eat any track for lunch.
Just a decent turning radius is not going to make a truck handle that well through turns at different speeds and can actually be over done to the point of slowing you down with drag coefficients and losing stability in higher speeds.
The point is, there is no easy answer to getting all that, but all of it is equally as important to consider in over all balance.
It just seems that people tend to stop at mechanical radius and diff fluids.
Fact is, a simple tire compound can make or break you in a corner. If your traction rolling to much, go with a harder compound or round off the side wall tread, or vice versa for to much sliding. The fine medium is found in the incremental adjustments of everything, rather than big changes of a couple things.
There is a thread here about roll center tuning. Lots of brain flexing going on over there. Will help you show how smart you are and up your post count.
I was wondering when you were going to get tired of the back and forth game of the big brains!
04-26-2015, 12:50 PM
#8145