banana rt

how is it ran when using 3.0 Shocks on scte? since it has a lot of travel,, any suggestion on shock towers,

MonsterSummit

iTrader: (15)

Honestly Im not to sure where you would want to start with that. It is quite a bit higher Kv compared to my 4.5T Thunder Power and I am generally geared at a 12-13T. For that I would have to imagine you would want to go even smaller. My best advice would be to pick a different motor. But if you were set on this motor I would start with a 10T and check temps. If it seems slow on top and temps are cool go up one tooth until you feel it is fast enough and temps are in check. Or if it gets to hot go down a tooth.

MonsterSummit

iTrader: (15)

The only thing I can think of is somehow the aluminum hubs are slighty different causing the problem. With the plastic hubs you put the shim on, drop the pin in and put the hex on, no problem. On another note, I stopped running the aluminum hubs. They are not "needed" other than they look cool, and from my personal experience it is a real pain if you blow a bearing. What a pain to get it out of the hub. But thats just my opinion.

Casper

iTrader: (34)

Should be ok. You want the rear shimmed a little on the tight side but not to the point of binding

Yeah the wheel may mark the arm and or the steering link depending on your toe settings

Your bearings may not be fully seated or tolerance stack up on your parts. Take .1 out. Either that or get a set of the new +.5 hexes.

potatobed409

iTrader: (1)

Is the +0.5 built into the inside or outside of the hex?

BSCFlash

iTrader: (4)

+1. Trust us on this. Many of us run this exact same setup, and it is unreal good. MonsterSummit TQd at the Midwest over Olson with it--it's a PROVEN combination with the Orion ESC. Please give us your feedback after you try that 5700 Kv, though, as you would have to run a TINY pinion gear to make it work, as it would rev way too high.

RocketColors

iTrader: (1)

I'm sure this has been addressed on here but I couldn't find any posts about it, I was hoping you guys could shed some light here.

I'm having some trouble with the diff's on my 2.0 in particular the center diff. When using the HD diff housings, after I build it the diff feels like it has a slight bind in it. I've tried re-building it and I can't get that out. It has a feeling like the mesh inside is off, like its too tight. I've even tried new housings.

ANYONE ELSE RUN INTO THIS?

I'm new to the offroad scene, been running on-road for years so forgive me if it's a simple fix.

-Robbie Burgess

AlanHall

iTrader: (43)

There's a couple scte owners in the speed passion thread claiming to have great luck with it.

LosiRacer33

iTrader: (3)

So I've been really spending a ton of time playing around with this setup on this truck. It never hooked up like the other trucks on the track. Always too much push into the turns and oversteer on the way out. I was running bar codes soft.

Today something happened. I layed down the shocks to Front 2-outside and Rear 2-outside. Front camber link 1 and rear at 2-b. Running diffs at 5k, 5k, 5k. 2mm shim for bump steer. Front shocks at 30, rears at 25. New sticky kicked Super Soft Proline IONs.

For the first time the truck was on rails! It finally clicked. As a newbie, the truck is so much easier to drive now! Had a threat day on the tight indoor hard packed track today!

Stoked. Had to share.

BmainStar

iTrader: (1)

Make sure when You install the gears and cross pins that you push down on the alum blocks with the tip of an small allen wrench to make sure they sit all the way down in there .that they are fully seated!!Hope that helps!!Cheers!

Redwings

iTrader: (4)

Can't you use the receiver box from the scte 1.0 (LOSB2358)?

Dracer

I have the 2.0 with a tekin 4300 and RX8 gen2 speed controller. This setup was bought new 2 weeks ago. I am running a high voltage servo. I have a glitch buster. My problem is this thing will stop running I will still have servo but no throttle. My motor and speed controller is running cool. Motor 135 deg. speed controller less than a 100 deg. I am running a deans plug to connect battery. Battery is a SMC 6500. Sometimes this thing will only run 5 minuets and sometimes it will run for a 8 min race. Battery is sometimes still at 65% when it does this. Please help

Redwings

iTrader: (4)

Could you also use the side rails from the 1.0? They look abit wider that the one on the 2.0. Maybe less dremmeling.

BSCFlash

iTrader: (4)

if you make a hard landing via a "chassis smack" with the RX8, it will stop for a few seconds, but you'll still have steering. This is a common quirk of this ESC. Mount the ESC with Kyosho Zeal Vibration Absorption to help relieve this, if, of course, this is your predicament.

Otherwise you may have a loose connection somewhere or the cutoff may be set wrong. Improper gearing, hard driving, excess wheel spin are other things that could draw too much from the batteries as well. Also, how new is your battery? If you don't monitor run times, you could kill a SMC battery, I've killed a few of these, because the 4300 motor is massively power hungry and many rookie drivers tend to "drive the piss out of their car" with this combination (we used to run this motor, but it was TOO powerful for this light of a car).

Dracer

The track is indoor and small the fast guys break into the high 14s my best laps are mid 15s. The jumps are not big. I am spinning my wheels to much. My batteries are not very old. After the car shuts off once it will not go far and it will happen again. I have 4 batteries and it doesn't seem to be battery specific. The farthest I have seen my batteries out of balance is one cell 4.17 the other 4.2. I always get them back perfect before I go back to the track. I am running a 13 tooth pinion with stock spur.