Gas Rat Racin

iTrader: (37)

What was the reason for the hard to spin spot on the front ring and pinion?
If I remember right it is supposed to just wear in. Could someone refresh my memory??
If I hold the shaft on the pinion gear and spin the whole bulkhead I can get 3 easy full turns and the its hard for 1 turn is this a problem or will it wear in??

stvnmccc

iTrader: (3)

What are you geared at wth the 3800?

agarabaghi

iTrader: (25)

Yea I had to reduce travel in my servo to 80% and man does she still turn on a dime. I like the way it drove on the inner hole way more

stvnmccc

iTrader: (3)

I experienced this with the front diff., after carefully assembling all three. It broke in after 1 battery pack through it. So, I wouldn't be too concerned about it.

TCCustoms

iTrader: (9)

Check to make sure all the screws are tight in the diff so that the ring gear is flush as this will cause even the slightest wobble and this could cause it AND also make sure all your bearings are pushed on the diff case til they bottom out on the case

Brazman

Thanks for the tips DTR, I will try some of these things first. I think it might just be that I need to adjust my driving style as this truck is so much more settled than the old one. I used to rely on the little bounce the old truck made after landing to kick the rear out for the next corner in a few spots. The new truck is much more planted so doesn't do the bounce..the rear just bites hard and over she goes.

Panda-PR

iTrader: (4)

Nice tips on the diff!
I started the build today. Gotta say, metric/standard sizes are killing me LOL
Felt the front diff notchy but will break them in, stripped one diff screw already- lesson learned
Overall good quality so far.

agarabaghi

iTrader: (25)

What are the right methods for lowering the ride height?

TCCustoms

iTrader: (9)

Set your shocks in the posistion you want them on the shock towers and control arms then just turn the upper collar the corresponding direction you want it to go...twist them up to the top of the shock body to lower and screw them down to raise it

agarabaghi

iTrader: (25)

Oh well then I know how do that ! I thought there was a way to adjust the height while building the shocks or something... Good to know!

TCCustoms

iTrader: (9)

No, that is rebound you might be thinking of

agarabaghi

iTrader: (25)

So I run through a set of tires every practice day... And even though that's only like $18 out of my pocket (thanks lhs) I would like to find a practice tire.

We run barcodes and pressure point at the track, I'm not too worried about loosing a bit of traction if I could find a decent tire that last a bit longer haha

Brazman

FYI for the LOSI guys. During my build I was prepared for the diff screw issue that others were having as I had purchased the HPI screws. Built the first 2 diffs and thought pfft what are people talking about. The 3rd diff however...holy cow was it tight. Fairly sure the stock screws would have stripped and I was concerned about the HPI screws as well with how hard I hard to lean on them. The third diff whilst functioning perfectly has very noticeably bulges where the screws run through the cups. Might be worth doing a sample of the cups and checking them out in case you have an intermittent production issue with them. The truck is amazing..just glad I got the HPI screws before the build.

tc5 man

Actually the Pressure points are good tires and grip pretty good in Soft compound and Gold i run them on carpet i should know ! The wear rate is much better than the tread that Barcodes and Panther Ratter tires have i know that im surprised they ware you fast.

So on Clay the Pressure points should work good and the wear to.

I would check them out .


Braz: Yea man i could of told you that one them HPI screws just much better for the diffs ! They are kind of hard to fine online though.

cttech455

iTrader: (10)

On my scte1.o I had a front ring gear that was oval shaped I posted about on the other thread. If you have calipers you could check to see that it is round.