TLR TEN-SCTE 2.0 Kit Thread
#1863
Tech Apprentice
first race after building my 2.0 was last night ..took the TQ but had to settle for 3rd after my switch shut off on lap 3..came from a lap behind to get back to third and missed second by a few seconds was all..truck is deff faster than the 1.0 it jumps way better
#1865
Tech Apprentice
#1866
Tech Master
iTrader: (9)
Wow, clean build. What did you do to connect your wires to the Xerun ? Looks like you put a screw through the connector-points or something ?
Edit: Never mind, found 'em : http://www.rc-race-and-drift-japan.c...oducts_id=3970
Edit: Never mind, found 'em : http://www.rc-race-and-drift-japan.c...oducts_id=3970
#1867
Hello guys,
Sorry if this has been asked, I don't want to read the 125 pages...
I have a SCTE 1.0 and would like a bit more traction and rear weigth, so I'm interested with the 2.0 layout.
To go from 1.0 to 2.0, is it enough to change chassis, battery "box", servo mount, torque rod and mudguards?
I understand the shock tower are new as well, made from CF, but I do have brand new aluminium reinforced ones on my 1.0, I guess that could do the work as well isn't it?
Last question : as I'm not racing, I run with 3S for more autonomy and less heat, I guess the battery tray of the 2.0 is not good for 3S as it looks perfect fit for 2S is that correct?
Thanks in advance for your feedbacks.
Sorry if this has been asked, I don't want to read the 125 pages...
I have a SCTE 1.0 and would like a bit more traction and rear weigth, so I'm interested with the 2.0 layout.
To go from 1.0 to 2.0, is it enough to change chassis, battery "box", servo mount, torque rod and mudguards?
I understand the shock tower are new as well, made from CF, but I do have brand new aluminium reinforced ones on my 1.0, I guess that could do the work as well isn't it?
Last question : as I'm not racing, I run with 3S for more autonomy and less heat, I guess the battery tray of the 2.0 is not good for 3S as it looks perfect fit for 2S is that correct?
Thanks in advance for your feedbacks.
#1868
Tech Master
iTrader: (30)
Hello guys,
Sorry if this has been asked, I don't want to read the 125 pages...
I have a SCTE 1.0 and would like a bit more traction and rear weigth, so I'm interested with the 2.0 layout.
To go from 1.0 to 2.0, is it enough to change chassis, battery "box", servo mount, torque rod and mudguards?
I understand the shock tower are new as well, made from CF, but I do have brand new aluminium reinforced ones on my 1.0, I guess that could do the work as well isn't it?
Last question : as I'm not racing, I run with 3S for more autonomy and less heat, I guess the battery tray of the 2.0 is not good for 3S as it looks perfect fit for 2S is that correct?
Thanks in advance for your feedbacks.
Sorry if this has been asked, I don't want to read the 125 pages...
I have a SCTE 1.0 and would like a bit more traction and rear weigth, so I'm interested with the 2.0 layout.
To go from 1.0 to 2.0, is it enough to change chassis, battery "box", servo mount, torque rod and mudguards?
I understand the shock tower are new as well, made from CF, but I do have brand new aluminium reinforced ones on my 1.0, I guess that could do the work as well isn't it?
Last question : as I'm not racing, I run with 3S for more autonomy and less heat, I guess the battery tray of the 2.0 is not good for 3S as it looks perfect fit for 2S is that correct?
Thanks in advance for your feedbacks.
#1869
The updates would cost me 150€ compared to 400€ a brand new kit, even if most of 1.0 could then become spare, that's however a lot of money...
Good to know for 3S anyway, thanks.
#1870
Tech Addict
iTrader: (4)
Wow, clean build. What did you do to connect your wires to the Xerun ? Looks like you put a screw through the connector-points or something ?
Edit: Never mind, found 'em : http://www.rc-race-and-drift-japan.c...oducts_id=3970
Edit: Never mind, found 'em : http://www.rc-race-and-drift-japan.c...oducts_id=3970
ok, got mine all done tonight and of course i come up from RC CAVE(basement) and the ground is covered with snow again......WTF?!?!!?!?
But here is a pic all done and wired up....sold the 2 sets of rims and rings on here so i just have the cheapy duratrax banditos for running on the roads out front on there for now
And here is a link to the build pics and everything so far...
http://s1227.beta.photobucket.com/us...0Pics/SCTE%202
But here is a pic all done and wired up....sold the 2 sets of rims and rings on here so i just have the cheapy duratrax banditos for running on the roads out front on there for now
And here is a link to the build pics and everything so far...
http://s1227.beta.photobucket.com/us...0Pics/SCTE%202
I think someone mentioned that he dremel the inside to fit the sensor cable with the power cables
#1871
Hello guys,
Sorry if this has been asked, I don't want to read the 125 pages...
I have a SCTE 1.0 and would like a bit more traction and rear weigth, so I'm interested with the 2.0 layout.
To go from 1.0 to 2.0, is it enough to change chassis, battery "box", servo mount, torque rod and mudguards?
I understand the shock tower are new as well, made from CF, but I do have brand new aluminium reinforced ones on my 1.0, I guess that could do the work as well isn't it?
Last question : as I'm not racing, I run with 3S for more autonomy and less heat, I guess the battery tray of the 2.0 is not good for 3S as it looks perfect fit for 2S is that correct?
Thanks in advance for your feedbacks.
Sorry if this has been asked, I don't want to read the 125 pages...
I have a SCTE 1.0 and would like a bit more traction and rear weigth, so I'm interested with the 2.0 layout.
To go from 1.0 to 2.0, is it enough to change chassis, battery "box", servo mount, torque rod and mudguards?
I understand the shock tower are new as well, made from CF, but I do have brand new aluminium reinforced ones on my 1.0, I guess that could do the work as well isn't it?
Last question : as I'm not racing, I run with 3S for more autonomy and less heat, I guess the battery tray of the 2.0 is not good for 3S as it looks perfect fit for 2S is that correct?
Thanks in advance for your feedbacks.
TLR designed the battery hold down for 2s LiPo because that is what is allowed for the class by ROAR . I am sure you could fit a 3s with a little modding though ......3s might throw off the balance though depending on how heavy your motor/servo is ........
#1872
1-Yes, Those terminals are slick!
2-Are the big 6000+mah lipo's a must for this rig? What do u guys run for mah to keep a good balance?
2-Are the big 6000+mah lipo's a must for this rig? What do u guys run for mah to keep a good balance?
#1874
Tech Regular
Hello guys,
Sorry if this has been asked, I don't want to read the 125 pages...
I have a SCTE 1.0 and would like a bit more traction and rear weigth, so I'm interested with the 2.0 layout.
To go from 1.0 to 2.0, is it enough to change chassis, battery "box", servo mount, torque rod and mudguards?
I understand the shock tower are new as well, made from CF, but I do have brand new aluminium reinforced ones on my 1.0, I guess that could do the work as well isn't it?
Last question : as I'm not racing, I run with 3S for more autonomy and less heat, I guess the battery tray of the 2.0 is not good for 3S as it looks perfect fit for 2S is that correct?
Thanks in advance for your feedbacks.
Sorry if this has been asked, I don't want to read the 125 pages...
I have a SCTE 1.0 and would like a bit more traction and rear weigth, so I'm interested with the 2.0 layout.
To go from 1.0 to 2.0, is it enough to change chassis, battery "box", servo mount, torque rod and mudguards?
I understand the shock tower are new as well, made from CF, but I do have brand new aluminium reinforced ones on my 1.0, I guess that could do the work as well isn't it?
Last question : as I'm not racing, I run with 3S for more autonomy and less heat, I guess the battery tray of the 2.0 is not good for 3S as it looks perfect fit for 2S is that correct?
Thanks in advance for your feedbacks.
#1875
The only thing you wouldn't have is the new camber link holes they put in the SCTE2.0 rear shock tower .
TLR designed the battery hold down for 2s LiPo because that is what is allowed for the class by ROAR . I am sure you could fit a 3s with a little modding though ......3s might throw off the balance though depending on how heavy your motor/servo is ........
TLR designed the battery hold down for 2s LiPo because that is what is allowed for the class by ROAR . I am sure you could fit a 3s with a little modding though ......3s might throw off the balance though depending on how heavy your motor/servo is ........
And they will be perfect with the 2.0 chassis as well !
Thanks for the info, I'll go for this as soon as my LHS has the parts in stock.