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Old 03-30-2017, 01:47 PM   #9376
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For sure thanks for info figured the controller maybe part of problem good info really appreciate all the help guys
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Old 04-02-2017, 05:51 PM   #9377
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Edit: Posted by mistake.
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Old 04-05-2017, 11:08 AM   #9378
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For sure thanks for info figured the controller maybe part of problem good info really appreciate all the help guys
If you don't mind, please share how you fixed this issue.
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Old 05-10-2017, 09:46 PM   #9379
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Hey Fellas,
I've had some issues with my SCTE stemming from a loose connection.
i played with some settings and now it's all up the creek!
Basically i've got it back going now, but i don't have reverse or brake?

it's a troy Lee Designs RTR with a hobbywing Xerun SCT Pro, everything else as per stock
Tx DX2E, Rx SRS4201, dynamite 3900kv 4pole 540 motor,

I've tried re-setting the end points on the controller as per the instructions, then re-calibrating using the set button on the esc. i click set, turn on, click set for neutral, move trigger back, click set for that, beeps/blinks twice as it's meant to, then move trigger forward for brake, click set "and nothing happens" - i can't get it to calibrate?

not sure why it won't let me. I'm new to this and was hoping to have it running this weekend as we are visiting my nephew, but it's pretty hard to drive without brakes.

any ideas what's happening? thanks guys!
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Old 05-10-2017, 09:49 PM   #9380
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Update the firmware on the SCT pro and try to calibrate it again
You must first update the software on the programmer though, so don't forget to do that before you update the ESC
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Old 05-23-2017, 07:02 PM   #9381
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Default CVD Bone Crosspin Spontaneous Uninstall

So I was leading about half way through an 8 minute main when my car lost all punch. I had an idea I lost 4WD but didn't really know how. I could still get around the track rolling the jumps but I had no punch out of the corners so I fell from 1st to 5th in the last half of the race. Turns out the cross-pin in one of my rear CVD bones left for vacation:

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Old 05-25-2017, 02:56 PM   #9382
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That sucks. I have seen that a few times and had it happen. I had 3 of those on my 2.0 truck early on when it was nearly new. Most often it gets discovered between races when you are cleaning and inspecting your rig. It starts out just being off center taking 3-4 lipos to come out if let go. I was always lucky to catch it early and never let it go more than 2 heat races before replacing or fixing it. I pressed the pin back in with blue loctite and hit the ball one good time with a hammer. Monitored it after that and wore them out without another issue. I have not seen this issue again on newer parts myself, but others might have.
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Old 07-15-2017, 11:47 AM   #9383
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So I have a SCBE and it states it uses a lot of parts and the chassis is based on the 2.0.. my main issue is the SCBE is heavy for the shocks it has.. so what would be the best upgrade for those? I have the standard black plastic bodied shocks and looking for something bigger and aluminum/threaded. I've seen the tlr 22 conversion but the reviews are mixed from what I've read. Thanks in advance,

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Old 07-15-2017, 01:58 PM   #9384
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Shock size is fine. We have run 12mm shocks on this car since day one. The 22 shock conversion has to do with the springs and there was a bad batch with the initial shipment of 3.0 kits but I can assure you the 22 shocks are some of the best you can ever get.

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Old 07-15-2017, 03:30 PM   #9385
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Originally Posted by Casper View Post
Shock size is fine. We have run 12mm shocks on this car since day one. The 22 shock conversion has to do with the springs and there was a bad batch with the initial shipment of 3.0 kits but I can assure you the 22 shocks are some of the best you can ever get.

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Thank you! I'm going to order a set up on Monday 👌🏼
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Old 07-15-2017, 04:23 PM   #9386
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Thank you! I'm going to order a set up on Monday 👌🏼
If I were you I would use the shocks and TLR tuning springs from the 2.0 truck. You could also spend less monet and use the blue shocks from the SCTE V1 truck, Ten T, Nitro SCTE or any other rig built off this platform with blue shocks. They are cheap and work great when used with the TLR tuning springs. If you do use the 22 style shocks you can still use the TLR tuning springs by making some collar adapters. Lot of info about this in the 3.0 thread. The springs are the key for either shock IMO.
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Old 11-08-2017, 09:17 AM   #9387
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Just pulled the trigger on the 3.0 and want to convert my 2.0 into a dirt oval truck, does anyone have a set sheet for this? I'm using Tekin electronics so if anyone has setup suggestion that would help as well.
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Old 11-08-2017, 09:53 AM   #9388
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Originally Posted by Adonis_mp View Post
Just pulled the trigger on the 3.0 and want to convert my 2.0 into a dirt oval truck, does anyone have a set sheet for this? I'm using Tekin electronics so if anyone has setup suggestion that would help as well.
Consider looking at oval car design. First step is moving all the weight you can to the left side of chassis. There is so much information to learn about oval setup I suggest you look at all the advice given for full size rigs. Generally, you still need the chassis to have a little more front end weight to make it stick to the inside of corners, but finding this balance is what makes oval racing interesting and fun for a guy who likes to tune his cars. The best handling car is going to be the guy with the best chassis balance, tires, body/wing/air dam and suspension setup. Much of the same can be said about any type of racing. Start with chassis weight, work on suspension/thicker sway bars, lower ride height and even consider wheel offset to take full advantage of corner traction. In my mind Oval is won in the corners and the same can be said for off road as well. Just have to test until you find the fine line of being able to corner fast while also being able to maintain a straight line under power and still have control.

Before you do anything, get the rules for the class and study them closely. You may not be allowed to run a wing or offset tires/wheels. You may not be allowed to run a custom or modified chassis. Before spending money or changing much, know what is legal and what bodies they allow you run.

I plan to do this myself in the future. However, track is new and rules are not set making it difficult to do much except a wing and side air dam on the stock body. No reason to butcher the truck or spend lots of time or money until rules are established. Do the low/no cost reversible stuff. Sway bars, ride height, tires and maybe wing and air dam to get the fun started.

Hope that helps you get started. Please share your rig here if you can.
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Old 11-09-2017, 11:41 AM   #9389
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thunder Trail View Post
Consider looking at oval car design. First step is moving all the weight you can to the left side of chassis. There is so much information to learn about oval setup I suggest you look at all the advice given for full size rigs. Generally, you still need the chassis to have a little more front end weight to make it stick to the inside of corners, but finding this balance is what makes oval racing interesting and fun for a guy who likes to tune his cars. The best handling car is going to be the guy with the best chassis balance, tires, body/wing/air dam and suspension setup. Much of the same can be said about any type of racing. Start with chassis weight, work on suspension/thicker sway bars, lower ride height and even consider wheel offset to take full advantage of corner traction. In my mind Oval is won in the corners and the same can be said for off road as well. Just have to test until you find the fine line of being able to corner fast while also being able to maintain a straight line under power and still have control.

Before you do anything, get the rules for the class and study them closely. You may not be allowed to run a wing or offset tires/wheels. You may not be allowed to run a custom or modified chassis. Before spending money or changing much, know what is legal and what bodies they allow you run.

I plan to do this myself in the future. However, track is new and rules are not set making it difficult to do much except a wing and side air dam on the stock body. No reason to butcher the truck or spend lots of time or money until rules are established. Do the low/no cost reversible stuff. Sway bars, ride height, tires and maybe wing and air dam to get the fun started.

Hope that helps you get started. Please share your rig here if you can.
Thanks for the info.
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