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Old 12-18-2016, 03:44 AM   #9286
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Wow that's crazy! I am always amazed at how we can be in the day and time and postage on things is still insane like that. Just seems like there could be a better way to get you guys stuff
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Old 12-18-2016, 05:06 AM   #9287
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Yea the Australia hobby store now how to hit your pocket here
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Old 12-18-2016, 06:44 AM   #9288
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Not sure which of us is wrong on this one, because I am not sure I used the correct terms either, but I think you thought I was saying "pillow ball" which is not what I meant. I was referring to the newer revised rod ends that eliminate the slop the 1.0 and 2.0 have in the linkages.
I didn't understand what you meant by the way you worded it, but now I do.

So as far as just the chassis it's self goes, no that isn't the only thing you will need. The center braces will not work with it from the 2.0 It needs 3.0 specific braces. I am also not sure that you can use the 2.0 battery blocks/mounts either. The new one's set the battery to the inside of the chassis while the 2.0 blocks set it to the outside.
I don't know if the 2.0 battery mounts will interchange without clearance issues, but they may.
Also the center drives should work fine from the 2.0, but I do know that the 3.0 comes with the newer dog bones rather than the CV types that the 2.0 came with. They should still work as far as length goes however, as that did not change.

You would probably be better off just buy the 2.0 -3 chassis, unless you really want the angled motor deal. In that case you will need the parts I mentioned for sure.
Josh,
My SCTE is 2.0 and i upgrade the chassis to -3.0 chassis all same bolt it front and rear MIP center brace is same the hole 2.0 chassis. The center dog bone part # TLR332015 wont work in -3.0 chassis.My 2.0 I change front arm, akermman, 15* caster, 22 shock conversion.
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Old 12-19-2016, 12:04 AM   #9289
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Josh,
My SCTE is 2.0 and i upgrade the chassis to -3.0 chassis all same bolt it front and rear MIP center brace is same the hole 2.0 chassis. The center dog bone part # TLR332015 wont work in -3.0 chassis.My 2.0 I change front arm, akermman, 15* caster, 22 shock conversion.
Yeah I understand that the 2.0 -3 chassis bolts right up, but I think he wants to install the 3.0 chassis, which is also -3 compared to the stock 2.0 pan. If that is the case I don't think the 3.0 chassis pan will fit the braces and what not without buying the rest of the 3.0 parts to go with it.
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Old 12-19-2016, 09:54 AM   #9290
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The -3 chassis did not have new chassis braces. It will bolt up with stock braces.
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Old 12-20-2016, 10:27 PM   #9291
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The -3 chassis did not have new chassis braces. It will bolt up with stock braces.
Exactly, but the guy who started with the questions wants to upgrade his 2.0 to the 3.0 chassis, which is in effect is also -3 chassis compared to the 2.0 stock pan if I am not mistaken. All I was stating is that if he plans to run the 3.0 pan, then he will need to buy the newer braces as well...
Yay or nay?
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Old 12-20-2016, 11:39 PM   #9292
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Yip.....the 3.0 chassis requires you to run the 3.0 braces also, not sure if anything else is required but I remember this coming up in the 3.0 forum.....
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Old 12-23-2016, 09:45 AM   #9293
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All good info. 3.0 chassis and the plastic chassis braces. The plastic braces are a blessing. One time install. They don't have rod ends to break and seem to be one of the better updates on the 3.0. truck. I use the aluminum MIP braces. Still find them for sale even though they have been discontinued.

I still run both 2.0 and 3.0 trucks and they are so close in lap times. The 2.0 with 3.0 front suspension has turned out to be a great rig. I would not hesitate to keep running the 2.0 and update with 3.0 parts as needed. Kinda the same thing many people did with the 1.0 truck.

Best parts from 3.0 are front suspension, A arms and 15 degree plastic carriers. Next would be all the rod ends and the balls from the 3.0 as well. Then uprights/hubs front and rear. After all that, I would look at a chassis. So far the 3 degree kick out on the motor has not helped me, but lack of track time in winter keeps me from final testing of the feature. Last thing is 22 shock upgrade. While the shock bodies and such are a better design, IMO the buggy springs are holding it back. I'm using 2.0 springs, custom adapters for the collar and the 2.0 spring cups with some dremel work to remedy this. It works great! Read about that in 3.0 thread.
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Old 01-03-2017, 11:25 AM   #9294
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Default SCTE 2.0

Guys I am going to start out with a Castle Sidewinder SCT 3800 system in my truck for now I will be running on indoor hard packed track medium to high traction will be using 6000 100c batteries what pinion do I need to start with Thanks
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Old 01-03-2017, 03:00 PM   #9295
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15T is good for a start, you'!ll see if you need to go higher depending on track layout.
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Old 01-03-2017, 09:30 PM   #9296
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Guys I am going to start out with a Castle Sidewinder SCT 3800 system in my truck for now I will be running on indoor hard packed track medium to high traction will be using 6000 100c batteries what pinion do I need to start with Thanks
I run a 15t/39 spur on my 4700 on medium sized tracks almost everywhere I run. 3800 IMO shouldn't use much less than a 16-17t pinion as a low point I would think or you risk red lining down the straights. I have found that more people over heat their electronics under gearing than I have seen from over gearing. Just a thought.
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Old 01-04-2017, 02:46 PM   #9297
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Originally Posted by Josh L View Post
I run a 15t/39 spur on my 4700 on medium sized tracks almost everywhere I run. 3800 IMO shouldn't use much less than a 16-17t pinion as a low point I would think or you risk red lining down the straights. I have found that more people over heat their electronics under gearing than I have seen from over gearing. Just a thought.
Any suggestions on a outdoor 1/8 scale track. I have the 3.0. I'm new to this brushless esc stuff. I'm using the tekin rx8 combo with gen2 4300 kv motor. I had a 15 tooth pinion and the track was slick so I talk to one of the locals, and he said go down on your pinion so you can drive wide open. Slick tracks don't like the constant throttle trigger control. So I went to a 13 tooth pinion to keep from spinning out. So is it the lower the kv's the higher the pinion gear to start with? My motor is not running hot. I can hold my hand on it and it's barely warm. So where do you think I should start out at on a outdoor slick 1/8 scale nitro small to barely medium size nitro track? Thanks in advance.
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Old 01-04-2017, 06:26 PM   #9298
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Any suggestions on a outdoor 1/8 scale track. I have the 3.0. I'm new to this brushless esc stuff. I'm using the tekin rx8 combo with gen2 4300 kv motor. I had a 15 tooth pinion and the track was slick so I talk to one of the locals, and he said go down on your pinion so you can drive wide open. Slick tracks don't like the constant throttle trigger control. So I went to a 13 tooth pinion to keep from spinning out. So is it the lower the kv's the higher the pinion gear to start with? My motor is not running hot. I can hold my hand on it and it's barely warm. So where do you think I should start out at on a outdoor slick 1/8 scale nitro small to barely medium size nitro track? Thanks in advance.
15 tooth on a 4300 is not a bad combo. You will have a lot of torque with that setup for sure, but you have to realize I am running a hobbywing 4700 which is technically a 545 motor size vs your true 540 motor. So 15 -16 will suit you well. If you are running cool that speaks volumes for your setup. I wouldn't stray to far from what you have now. If you think you need more you can go down a tooth, but if you feel there is to much torque and not enough top end then you should go up a tooth while watching your temps.
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Old 01-05-2017, 02:17 AM   #9299
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Default Motor + ESC combo

Josh, which ESC are you running with your 4700? I'm running a Tekin Rx8 + Hobbywing 4700. I was talking to some guys at the track and they said it's better to run either all Tekin or all Hobbywing. Do you see a benefit to running a matched combo?
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Old 01-05-2017, 06:52 PM   #9300
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Some ESC and motor mismatched combos cause motors to run hot or not function properly. That is not the case here. The Tekin software works great with the Sensored HW motors. However, since some brands don't play nice with others it is a safe bet to use ESC and motors from same brand.

As these magic boxes get more complicated we will likely see companies purposely design the systems to only work with their brand to ensure you use them together. That could enhance sales? However, that might backfire if the other brand offers a universal unit that works with everything and has more features, hint Tekin
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