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Old 10-19-2016, 07:51 AM   #9271
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So you're saying the -3mm chassis on the 3.0 is actually longer from front diff to rear diff? Also did you measure from the rear wheel nut to the front wheel nut? This makes no sense to me either if it's truly longer....
No, not longer chassis. I did compare chassis before build. 3.0 appeared to be 3-4mm shorter at the rear diff bolt holes compared to 2.0. Since that is what I expected to see I didn't measure anything at the time. I did measure the front of 2.0 with each style A arm and the 3.0 A arm is 2mm forward at the outer end of the arm. I should have measured wheelbase axle to axle. Just didn't think about it at the time.

After the 3.0 build I could see the axle nut to nut difference showing the 2.0 shorter wheelbase about 3mm. I confirmed that yesterday before installing the a arms on 2.0.

Looking at the rear uprights and spacers, the 3.0 has the hubs moved all the way to rear. I had 2.0 slightly forward from center. If I had moved the hubs to the same location the wheelbase would be about the same.

Now that I know this I'm starting to understand more about what is different and maybe why my setup that worked on 2.0 is not giving me the same results I expected. Sure, the -3 in back will give more traction in theory and should rotate quicker, but the 2mm up front may offset the quicker rotation.

I'm all about the details, so the more I know the better I will understand the setup that will work best for me.
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Old 10-19-2016, 06:17 PM   #9272
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I'm all about the details, so the more I know the better I will understand the setup that will work best for me.
Yes, and that is exactly why I am always pleased to see you post. Taking things to another level is my style with most things. Learning new things from your post is no different.
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Old 10-20-2016, 07:55 AM   #9273
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Yes, and that is exactly why I am always pleased to see you post. Taking things to another level is my style with most things. Learning new things from your post is no different.
Glad to hear that. I will keep testing and racing the 3.0 and upgraded 2.0 trucks back to back until I know the 2.0 is no longer the king. I have a feeling it will hold its own. See how the 3.0 A arms and such change the 2.0 truck.
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Old 12-09-2016, 11:53 AM   #9274
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Up.
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Old 12-10-2016, 07:40 PM   #9275
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After going back and forth between this truck and the 3.0 I decided to get a runout 2.0 and a heap of the necessary and performance hopups to make it a reliable and bulletproof truck!.....and still got it all for cheeper than a 3.0 was going to cost me......im just wondering tho what people are using for a protective under body?

Cheers Aaron
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Old 12-10-2016, 09:44 PM   #9276
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All any of that stuff is, is just vinyl sticker material. You can buy large quantities of it from signmasters or US cutter and just trim it to fit for pennies compared to buying precut RC specific sets.
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Old 12-12-2016, 12:28 AM   #9277
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After going back and forth between this truck and the 3.0 I decided to get a runout 2.0 and a heap of the necessary and performance hopups to make it a reliable and bulletproof truck!.....and still got it all for cheeper than a 3.0 was going to cost me......im just wondering tho what people are using for a protective under body?

Cheers Aaron
Install the 3.0 front a arms and carriers, cheap plastic parts are easy to justify. I think the sway bar needed a longer screw and the shock spring cups call for light dremel work for clearance. Uprights/hubs front and rear are worthy as they are stronger and bearings fit tighter for less slop. That gets you the handling advantages that I have experienced on my 2.0 rig. Both are so close I can't pick a winner between them yet. The best thing on the 3.0 has been the front suspension.
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Old 12-12-2016, 01:30 AM   #9278
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ok cheers, I havnt run it yet so will try it first and see what its like and to compare when i do make the upgrades. I have put the alloy tlr 15deg casters on it tho during box build and also included during the build is an alloy tlr top steering plate, tlr alloy rear diff inserts, strc alloy front mount for centre diff, i also built the diffs with the xray washer as suggested, all oils are stock wts too except rear diff i put 2k in it as our track generally has quite a few hairpins and tighter techy stuff....will see how she goes
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Old 12-12-2016, 11:59 PM   #9279
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Following what Thundertrail says is always good advice. There are many people that run these trucks, but few as thorough as he is with his testing that frequents the forums. Do as he suggest and you won't be disappointed.
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Old 12-18-2016, 12:53 AM   #9280
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what do you need if you wanna change a 2.0 scte over to the new 3.0 chassie all you need is a 3.0 or do you need to change drive shift too
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Old 12-18-2016, 01:56 AM   #9281
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22 shock conversion, arms, castor blocks, -3 chassis, center braces, pivot ball ends, etc. You would be better off just getting the new truck in all seriousness.
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Old 12-18-2016, 02:03 AM   #9282
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so the new 3.0 is pivot ball car
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Old 12-18-2016, 02:03 AM   #9283
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i just want to chassie only not rest
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Old 12-18-2016, 02:54 AM   #9284
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so the new 3.0 is pivot ball car
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i just want to chassie only not rest
Not sure which of us is wrong on this one, because I am not sure I used the correct terms either, but I think you thought I was saying "pillow ball" which is not what I meant. I was referring to the newer revised rod ends that eliminate the slop the 1.0 and 2.0 have in the linkages.
I didn't understand what you meant by the way you worded it, but now I do.

So as far as just the chassis it's self goes, no that isn't the only thing you will need. The center braces will not work with it from the 2.0 It needs 3.0 specific braces. I am also not sure that you can use the 2.0 battery blocks/mounts either. The new one's set the battery to the inside of the chassis while the 2.0 blocks set it to the outside.
I don't know if the 2.0 battery mounts will interchange without clearance issues, but they may.
Also the center drives should work fine from the 2.0, but I do know that the 3.0 comes with the newer dog bones rather than the CV types that the 2.0 came with. They should still work as far as length goes however, as that did not change.

You would probably be better off just buy the 2.0 -3 chassis, unless you really want the angled motor deal. In that case you will need the parts I mentioned for sure.
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Old 12-18-2016, 03:02 AM   #9285
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yeah to buy the 3.0 here i am looking at $750 posted that why i was looking at it that way
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