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Old 09-27-2016, 08:59 AM   #9256
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A large sweeping 8th scale track the longer chassis will be a little more stable which is the thought. Those of us that have the -3 chassis on don't take it off though.
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Old 09-27-2016, 09:20 AM   #9257
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Yes Sir,

58.97mm free standing length
That's the right spring. I just don't understand how that would struggle to get ride height, unless you have a ton of extra weight in your truck
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Old 09-27-2016, 11:10 AM   #9258
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That's the right spring. I just don't understand how that would struggle to get ride height, unless you have a ton of extra weight in your truck
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Old 09-28-2016, 08:23 AM   #9259
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Default Building tips or suggestions

I am going to be building a 2.0 today. You guys have any building tips or suggestions? I will be setting my diffs to 5-5-3 and shock oil to 35wt. I have a hobbystar 150 esc and hobbystar pro 4300 sensored motor going unit. Picking up tires and a servo this weekend. So any input would be appreciated.
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Old 09-28-2016, 09:49 AM   #9260
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PM sent
Got it and answered
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Old 09-28-2016, 07:10 PM   #9261
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I just got a 2.0 today. Any building tips or suggestions? 5-5-3 in diffs not sure about shock oil yet. Maybe 35 wt. Going to be running a hobbystar 150 esc, hobbystar pro 4 4300 sensored motor. Need to go pick up a servo and tires. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
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Old 09-29-2016, 02:28 PM   #9262
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Originally Posted by svtman79 View Post
I just got a 2.0 today. Any building tips or suggestions? 5-5-3 in diffs not sure about shock oil yet. Maybe 35 wt. Going to be running a hobbystar 150 esc, hobbystar pro 4 4300 sensored motor. Need to go pick up a servo and tires. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Build it to specs in the manual. It is a great starting point. Then use TLR tuning guide to find the best settings for you and your track. Build tips and link to the tuning guide can be found here: http://losiracing.blogspot.com/2013/...uild-tips.html

Shim your ring and pinion gears properly so they last and don't strip teeth. These seem to help. Team Losi Racing Aluminum Rear Gearbox Bearing Insert Set (2) https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-lo...lr3100/p235958

Best thing I ever upgraded on 2.0 for better handling: Front Spindle Carrier, 15 Deg, +2mm, Aluminum: SCTE (TLR334017). Suggest you use 3.0 front arms and spindle carriers to get same thing.

**Best part I ever purchased for durability: Xray Diff Washers 964050 https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-5x...a964050/p22764
How to Build SCTE bulletproof Diffs

**2nd best part I ever purchased for durability: MIP Pro4mance™ Chassis Braces – Rigid, TLR SCTE 2.0 #13249 *Discontinued* If you can find them buy a set and don't look back. Money well spent.

Talk to fast guys at your track or tracks you plan to race at for tire info. So many fast tires of the week you could fill up a laundry basket and still not have the best compound or tread design.

Best tire advice to anyone wanting to race. Use race tires on the track only. Run a cheap or used tire for bashing on pavement, yard, gravel. Race tires are usually done after one run on anything other than the track.

I spend more money on tires than anything else on my truck
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Old 09-29-2016, 04:04 PM   #9263
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Thank you for the advice. I was already looking at the front carriers and spindles. After putting the front end together today I noticed room for improvement. What is the best method for shimming the pinions?
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Old 09-30-2016, 01:44 AM   #9264
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Thank you for the advice. I was already looking at the front carriers and spindles. After putting the front end together today I noticed room for improvement. What is the best method for shimming the pinions?
Each vehicle is different, but the principal is the same for all ring and pinion diffs. Suggest you get an understanding of the process first and help from someone who has done it before is a big advantage. See this for a good basic idea on backlash and shimming the ring gear left to right to get good gear mesh. http://www.team-durango.com/blog/201...box-pro-build/
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Old 10-02-2016, 03:23 PM   #9265
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I have always used the stock bumper up front. I see a few people using the RPM, but I don't think it's an advantage. I get a year or so out of the stock front bumper, but I do keep a spare for that rare crash. Maybe someone who has used it will chime in.

I do use the RPM rear bumper. I through bolted the shock tower to the RPM mount because the stock bumper seems to pull threads out after a couple of months. Did that over a year ago and still using the same rear bumper. It works well for me.
Do you want my rpm rear bumper?
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Old 10-02-2016, 03:34 PM   #9266
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the servo i use turnigy ts -920 on my losi troy lee. I recommend tires go super soft. proline hole shot.
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Old 10-18-2016, 08:49 PM   #9267
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For those still racing the 2.0 and wanting the upgrades that may or may not matter.....

I installed the 3.0 a arms and carriers on my 2.0 truck along with the 3.0 front and rear hubs. The only thing needed to use the 2.0 shocks is to clearance the a arms for the spring cups. If you have the 22 shock package the shocks will fit in the a arms with no mods.

The arms and carriers bolt on and you just need some longer screws for the swaybar connection at the arm. To get the most steering angle you do need the updated 3.0 dog bones or the Tekno bone kit.

Something worth noting, the 3.0 front A arms add about 2mm to wheelbase on the 2.0 truck. Not sure how this changes handling. Before I installed the 3.0 arms on my 2.0 I had both trucks side by side on the bench and the 3.0 with -3 chassis was longer than my 2.0 truck. That makes no sense to me. I measured the rear chassis between center and rear diffs and for sure it is about 3mm shorter. So what does it mean? Well, they are about the same wheelbase. Beyond that the handling changes, good or bad, are still not that clear to me. Out of the box setup is not necessarily better than a well setup 2.0, but with time it might surpass the best 2.0 truck.
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Old 10-19-2016, 12:02 AM   #9268
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Is the 3.0 chassis winder then the 2.0 chassis
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Old 10-19-2016, 12:04 AM   #9269
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thunder Trail View Post
For those still racing the 2.0 and wanting the upgrades that may or may not matter.....

I installed the 3.0 a arms and carriers on my 2.0 truck along with the 3.0 front and rear hubs. The only thing needed to use the 2.0 shocks is to clearance the a arms for the spring cups. If you have the 22 shock package the shocks will fit in the a arms with no mods.

The arms and carriers bolt on and you just need some longer screws for the swaybar connection at the arm. To get the most steering angle you do need the updated 3.0 dog bones or the Tekno bone kit.

Something worth noting, the 3.0 front A arms add about 2mm to wheelbase on the 2.0 truck. Not sure how this changes handling. Before I installed the 3.0 arms on my 2.0 I had both trucks side by side on the bench and the 3.0 with -3 chassis was longer than my 2.0 truck. That makes no sense to me. I measured the rear chassis between center and rear diffs and for sure it is about 3mm shorter. So what does it mean? Well, they are about the same wheelbase. Beyond that the handling changes, good or bad, are still not that clear to me. Out of the box setup is not necessarily better than a well setup 2.0, but with time it might surpass the best 2.0 truck.
So you're saying the -3mm chassis on the 3.0 is actually longer from front diff to rear diff? Also did you measure from the rear wheel nut to the front wheel nut? This makes no sense to me either if it's truly longer....
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Old 10-19-2016, 12:06 AM   #9270
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Is the 3.0 chassis winder then the 2.0 chassis
I believe so. I think they did this because of the motor slant when it's setup with the equal angled dog bone center drives.
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