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Old 07-24-2016, 07:20 AM   #9196
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Looks like it will be easy enough to convert 2.0 to 3.0...


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Old 07-24-2016, 06:41 PM   #9197
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Originally Posted by CharlieHo View Post
Got to play with my new to me 2.0 a little. Donkey kicked bad first time out with it. Brought it home and put it back to almost kit setup and took out all drag brake. It still kicks, but manageable with some throttle.

Turn in on this thing is horrible, though. I dropped to 5k front and center trying to free it up, but, still doesn't want to dive in like I'm accustomed to driving. If I use a lot of throttle and drift through, it's okay, but that's just not as consistent as I like. Maybe I just need more wheel time and fine tuning.
I know for me getting the tekno driveshafts and the aluminum carriers TLR334017 and cranking down the servo saver spring till it compress down all the way helped my truck turn better. The rest would be more fine tuning the truck.
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Old 07-25-2016, 02:57 PM   #9198
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+1
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Old 07-25-2016, 03:51 PM   #9199
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CharlieHo View Post
Got to play with my new to me 2.0 a little. Donkey kicked bad first time out with it. Brought it home and put it back to almost kit setup and took out all drag brake. It still kicks, but manageable with some throttle.

Turn in on this thing is horrible, though. I dropped to 5k front and center trying to free it up, but, still doesn't want to dive in like I'm accustomed to driving. If I use a lot of throttle and drift through, it's okay, but that's just not as consistent as I like. Maybe I just need more wheel time and fine tuning.
What setup are you running?
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Old 08-01-2016, 07:47 PM   #9200
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These are on sale at Horizon for 349.99 now.
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Old 08-01-2016, 11:20 PM   #9201
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Upgrading the 2.0 truck chassis to 3.0 is not cheap, but if your rig is in good shape that night be worth it. I Plan to keep my 2.0 for spare parts and backup rig.
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Old 08-02-2016, 08:23 AM   #9202
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Could someone point me to a good starting set up. The track I plan to be running on is a medium size, outdoor 1/8th scale track that has some loam on it. The tires of choice are usually Impacts or Blockades are there are no what I would call large jumps. I will try to attach a picture. I just need a solid set up to get me started. Thanks everyone
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Official TLR TEN-SCTE 2.0 Kit Thread-image.jpg  
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Old 08-03-2016, 09:41 AM   #9203
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Originally Posted by rccars4scott View Post
Could someone point me to a good starting set up. The track I plan to be running on is a medium size, outdoor 1/8th scale track that has some loam on it. The tires of choice are usually Impacts or Blockades are there are no what I would call large jumps. I will try to attach a picture. I just need a solid set up to get me started. Thanks everyone
At the SCT & 1/8 E Nats, Ryan ran the kit setup, with battery in the front and a 2.2mm front sway bar. I'd start there. He said it was "cheating".

Sorry, wrong thread...lol. Try my Surf City setup from last year with 5-5-3 as a starting place.
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Old 08-03-2016, 10:40 PM   #9204
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Dumb question how to get 2.5 Anti-squat? Sorry i am new this kit.
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Old 08-04-2016, 08:28 AM   #9205
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You need to replace the inserts in the front/rear pivot block. Put .5 inserts with the hole up.

This is for the 8ight but same thing applies for the SCTE

http://www.tlracing.com/ProdInfo/Fil...structions.pdf
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Old 08-04-2016, 09:11 AM   #9206
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Originally Posted by raved007 View Post
Dumb question how to get 2.5 Anti-squat? Sorry i am new this kit.

Never mind i found it
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Old 08-19-2016, 06:10 PM   #9207
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The plastic rod end broke on my front torque rod. Is there a part number for just the rod end so i don't have to buy the entire TLR231010?
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Old 08-19-2016, 10:05 PM   #9208
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The plastic rod end broke on my front torque rod. Is there a part number for just the rod end so i don't have to buy the entire TLR231010?
LOSB4023 has them, the other ends are good to have because they wear out.
https://www.amainhobbies.com/losi-ro...sb4023/p157951
I broke a torque rod end once also. From reading here I found the screw needs to be threaded all the way in the plastic end. That may be what the issue with yours was.
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Old 08-20-2016, 03:32 PM   #9209
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I was never able to make those plastic rod ends on the stock chassis stiffeners last more than a few races no matter how I installed them. Come up short or nose plant one time and they are done. MIP aluminum chassis stiffeners are a one time $20 fix. Yes, you wont have as much chassis flex, but who wants to fix the same issue over and over.....
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Old 08-20-2016, 04:02 PM   #9210
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Originally Posted by Thunder Trail View Post
I was never able to make those plastic rod ends on the stock chassis stiffeners last more than a few races no matter how I installed them. Come up short or nose plant one time and they are done. MIP aluminum chassis stiffeners are a one time $20 fix. Yes, you wont have as much chassis flex, but who wants to fix the same issue over and over.....
Yeah, but they are discontinued and no longer available to the rest of us.

Shows how much faith MIP has in their products that so much of their stuff for the SCTE is discontinued.
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