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Old 06-12-2016, 07:41 PM   #9136
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Well, I finished my build and took my truck to the local track today... I love it!!!

I do have an issue though... I'm using the stock 2.0 shocks. I have 3 of 4 are leaking at the cap, not the bleed screw. Is there an upgrade to the TLR334000 orings? They seem a little skinny for the job and I wonder if I have maybe pinched them or they did not seat correctly when I built them. I'm thinking about going to harbor freight and buying an oring kit to see if I can find something.

Lou
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Old 06-12-2016, 09:10 PM   #9137
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Did you roll the o-ring over the threads down to the lip where the threaded shock body starts? The instruction manual makes it look like they sit inside the cap at the top of the shock body. Coat them with a little shock oil when you put them on to keep the cap from pinching them while you tighten it down. I've never had the TLR ones leak, so probably no need to try and find an alternative.


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Well, I finished my build and took my truck to the local track today... I love it!!!

I do have an issue though... I'm using the stock 2.0 shocks. I have 3 of 4 are leaking at the cap, not the bleed screw. Is there an upgrade to the TLR334000 orings? They seem a little skinny for the job and I wonder if I have maybe pinched them or they did not seat correctly when I built them. I'm thinking about going to harbor freight and buying an oring kit to see if I can find something.

Lou
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Old 06-13-2016, 04:14 AM   #9138
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Ah... that would be it. Thanks bro ;-)

Lou
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Old 06-13-2016, 06:06 AM   #9139
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No problem. I just remembered there's a very a detailed build series that a guy put on YouTube for the SCTE 2.0 - here's the info for the segment where he built the shocks. His whole series would have been really helpful about 5 days ago!!

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=FeLy_zmVdwc


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Ah... that would be it. Thanks bro ;-)

Lou
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Old 06-13-2016, 11:51 AM   #9140
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Originally Posted by 67GTA View Post
Did you roll the o-ring over the threads down to the lip where the threaded shock body starts? The instruction manual makes it look like they sit inside the cap at the top of the shock body. Coat them with a little shock oil when you put them on to keep the cap from pinching them while you tighten it down. I've never had the TLR ones leak, so probably no need to try and find an alternative.
Well shit............................... Seems I have had it wrong from the get go. I too thought the manual was saying put the o-ring in the shock cap. I just tore them down and reassembled per your post. I will be racing on Wed night to see if I have any issues. Thanks brotha!!!
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Old 06-13-2016, 12:51 PM   #9141
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Thanks Casper, what oil, springs, and setup would you recommend? I goto a covered outdoor dirt track. Its not a huge track. I got the truck used, and the shocks it came with leaked terribly and I went with the 22 conversion, and they feel very smooth but the truck sits sooo low.
Here are the setups I have used over the years.

http://casper-rc.com/TLR_Ten-SCTE.htm

You cannot adjust the shock collars to raise the ride height?
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Old 06-13-2016, 01:07 PM   #9142
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Quote:
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The bore of the stock and the 22 shocks are the same. The OD of the 22 shocks is much smaller reducing overall weight. The o-ring sealing and bushings on the 22 shocks is also better. The springs are of similar if not the same spring load ratings. So all these comments about the shocks not being "big enough" for this truck are misleading and untrue as the bore of both shocks is in fact the same. Also the bore of the shock has very little to do with rebound.
If what you're saying is true Casper, then why don't you guys run the 22 shocks on all your vehicles that have similar weight ratios as the SCTE?
The 8ight electric buggy can't weigh that much more than the SCTE, but it's specs leave out that number due to stating (depending on what equipment is used)
Isn't that the case for any chassis?
Not everyone runs 10th scale motors in their SCT's and many are starting to run 8k packs in favor of more consistent punch throughout a run.

My argument has never been the bore size, but the volume loss. It does make a difference.
I own both the 410.3 and the SCTE 2.0 and the way the 410.3 absorbs bumps and jumps speaks for it's self. And as you stated about running high traction clay, I am not arguing against that sort of environment what so ever. But that is not what the majority of us on the EC run on in my experience so I have to report on where my experience is.
The option of a larger bore shock would have been nice is all I am saying. Does my SCTE still perform good. Yes it does, no arguing that. Ran the tracks fastest lap time yesterday with mine @ 13.13 while the majority driver's average was in the 14's. But I truly believe I could have been faster if I wasn't smacking bottom on half the jumps.
My girl friend ran the Tekno and it just doesn't bottom out and is noticeably more stable over all. I have ran tack lap records with it to, but find it much easier to be consistent with over all. If it's not a shock issue, then why is this happening?
I guess I am just going to have to accept the SCTE is going to be primarily for the smooth tracks and drive the 410.3 on the rougher stuff from now on.

If you guys do make a 3.0, I hope you all can somehow integrate a system that could use either shock types. It wouldn't be all that hard to do and would make it amazingly adaptable per environment.
Sometimes more weight is beneficial and not always a hindrance per traction available.
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Old 06-13-2016, 01:27 PM   #9143
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Default Losi SCTE 2.0 not turning a tight left

Hello guys I have a Losi SCTE 2.0 and I was trying to set up my steering and noticed that the steering linkage is hitting the steering drag link. I am not sure why and I have tried to correct it several times but not get it figured out. Has anybody else had this issue?
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Old 06-13-2016, 05:38 PM   #9144
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So here's my bent hinge pin brace, is there anything i can do with the hinge pin adjustments to help with anti squat? Or to help keep my rear end up? it sits so low... I have a pro4 hd 4300 motor, and only a 2s in it currently and it seems like its too much weight.. ><




Last edited by deceit; 06-13-2016 at 05:50 PM.
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Old 06-13-2016, 05:54 PM   #9145
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Get a sledge hammer. kidding
The black inserts are removable. You can get additional inserts that have the holes in different locations for toe and squat adjustments. Front and rear of each arm. They need replaced when the arms feel loose and sloppy.
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Old 06-13-2016, 06:10 PM   #9146
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Originally Posted by deceit View Post
So here's my bent hinge pin brace, is there anything i can do with the hinge pin adjustments to help with anti squat? Or to help keep my rear end up? it sits so low... I have a pro4 hd 4300 motor, and only a 2s in it currently and it seems like its too much weight.. ><
That's bent bad enough that it needs to be replaced - could certainly cause binding. For a good description of anti-squat and how to tune it, download the SCTE tuning Tips sheet from TLR's website - I don't think I can post the link so you'll have to cut and paste it:

http://www.tlracing.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdId=TLR03000#prodSetups
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Old 06-13-2016, 06:25 PM   #9147
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Yeah I read through the tuning tips, its quite helpful. I just find it hard to believe that the brace being bent on one side could cause so much trouble. is anyone else using the 22 shocks? or having any issues at all with the rear sitting too low? i saw that new rear braces are about $28 on ebay, or $40 elsewhere.

there is also this set, which is $40 and includes other stuff that i don't really need.. and they aren't the same ones as the $28 set, or what I have currently...

http://www.dollarhobbyz.com/products...ns-turnbuckles
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Old 06-13-2016, 07:51 PM   #9148
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deceit View Post
Yeah I read through the tuning tips, its quite helpful. I just find it hard to believe that the brace being bent on one side could cause so much trouble. is anyone else using the 22 shocks? or having any issues at all with the rear sitting too low? i saw that new rear braces are about $28 on ebay, or $40 elsewhere.

there is also this set, which is $40 and includes other stuff that i don't really need.. and they aren't the same ones as the $28 set, or what I have currently...

http://www.dollarhobbyz.com/products...ns-turnbuckles
Just out of curiosity, are your rear droop screws keeping the arms from fully extending?
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Old 06-13-2016, 08:27 PM   #9149
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Shock rebuilt ;-) thanks 67GTA!

Lou
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Old 06-14-2016, 09:35 AM   #9150
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So... Lets talk bodies for a sec... I had a bitch of a time getting the holes for the body mounting located. The kit included template did not match the body posts on the kit nor did the premarked dimples on the body it self. What is the trick to getting this lined out?

I want to get another body and do a better job with trimming and painting. Any links to or tips and tricks with trimming and masking?

I do like the kit body but are there any other options to looks at? I also like the Pro-Line Raptor SC body.

Thanks!

Lou
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