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Old 04-26-2016, 07:33 PM   #9046
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The new dog bone center drive shafts don't really work with the King Headz dual bearing motor mount and center diff support. Since the drive cup is smaller and lighter the bearing doesn't touch the out drive cup.

Has anyone found a way to use a smaller I.D. bearing that would support the cups?

Maybe a plastic reducer or something to fill the gap?
It seemed to me that with the dogbone cups. There is less play. So I just left the center diff mount with the normal bearings and normal spacer. I personally like the motor mount of the king headz better.
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Old 04-27-2016, 09:52 AM   #9047
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thunder Trail View Post
The new dog bone center drive shafts don't really work with the King Headz dual bearing motor mount and center diff support. Since the drive cup is smaller and lighter the bearing doesn't touch the out drive cup.

Has anyone found a way to use a smaller I.D. bearing that would support the cups?

Maybe a plastic reducer or something to fill the gap?
Not sure what you mean. Everything fits together fine. Didn't notice the new outdrive is smaller than the old one. Is it? Getting my caliper out...

Edit: I reckon you are right. The new outdrives are about 1mm smaller in diameter than the old.

No 11x18x4 bearing that I can find.
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Last edited by rcus3r; 04-27-2016 at 10:08 AM.
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Old 04-27-2016, 10:59 AM   #9048
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Yes, she is a little dirty. I was going to clean her, but figured I'll just wait for the 3.0 to come out instead...
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Old 04-27-2016, 10:37 PM   #9049
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Originally Posted by rcus3r View Post
Not sure what you mean. Everything fits together fine. Didn't notice the new outdrive is smaller than the old one. Is it? Getting my caliper out...

Edit: I reckon you are right. The new outdrives are about 1mm smaller in diameter than the old.

No 11x18x4 bearing that I can find.
I have been using the King Headz dual bearing mount for over 2 years. It has extended the life of my center diff case by sharing the side loads with the case. I want to continue using the King Headz if I can find a way to make the outer bearing support the drive cup.

Any ideas?
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Old 04-28-2016, 04:10 PM   #9050
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Default Scte 22 conversion

Well about to sit down and build the new shock set.
The factory kit uses clear TLR shock fluid as does all losi stock setups it seems.

I see there are piston options.
Our track is medium large outdoor with a few medium jumps but otherwise just a regular outdoor track.
is a "standard" Losi shock setup decent? Like 30 wt with 3 hole pistons?
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Old 04-28-2016, 04:53 PM   #9051
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thunder Trail View Post
I have been using the King Headz dual bearing mount for over 2 years. It has extended the life of my center diff case by sharing the side loads with the case. I want to continue using the King Headz if I can find a way to make the outer bearing support the drive cup.

Any ideas?
I haven't tried this myself but you asked for ideas, so here goes:

Get some K&S Brass tubing with an I.D. that is just a bit smaller than the O.D. of the new smaller outdrive. Cut piece to fit over the outdrive. Slit the tube length-wise so it slides over the outdrive. Add another layer, solder the two layers together. One layer would increases the diameter by about .032, two layers by about .064. You need .039 to make up 1MM difference, so turn or file down the outer layer until it fits in the bearing.

Alternatively, use one layer of K&S tubing and some 0.004 (or 0.003) brass shim stock. That will make it up from 11MM to 12MM. Maybe you can solder the shim stock and K&S tubing to the outdrive. I don't know for sure but I would not expect that soldering to the outdrive would get it hot enough to lose its hardness.

Just an idea...

Whether it is worth the trouble or not is up to you.

If I ever decide to get the center dogbone system I will try this myself since I have KH mounts on my SCTE cars and an electric Ten-T.
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Old 04-29-2016, 10:43 AM   #9052
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Why not try shrink wrap? You can buy the harder clear stuff that would probably keep tolerances close. Alternately delrin step washers would be cool if you could find the right size.
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Old 04-29-2016, 11:12 AM   #9053
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Why not try shrink wrap? You can buy the harder clear stuff that would probably keep tolerances close. Alternately delrin step washers would be cool if you could find the right size.
Possible problems I see with shrink wrap are:

1) You don't have a lot of control over the final size. If one layer isn't enough, a second layer may be too big to fit the bearing. You can machine the brass if you go with 2 layers of tube or get shim in increments of 0.001 to get the exact fit if you go with one layer of tube and the shim.

2) Even the hardest heat shrink is still a soft plastic and may flow away from the stress point leaving you with slop in the bearing.

On the other hand, if you happen to find stuff that is exactly the right size, it would probably be easy to replace frequently.

The K&S tubing is about 0.015 wall thickness. You need about 0.0195 wall thickness (assuming the 11MM O.D. is correct). If you have access to a lathe you can get 0.032 wall tubing from McMaster. and turn down the wall to the exact thickness required and do it with one piece with no shim stock.
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Old 04-29-2016, 11:34 AM   #9054
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Good ideas. I don't think the shrink wrap will hold up to the speed and heat on the motor side of the mount. Might last a few runs but I already get 100 lipos between diff service and don't want to go backwards increasing service intervals.

Weight of adding brass and solder seems like a bad idea, but if it was done correctly by a skilled person it could work.

Making a collar from delrin is a great idea. That may be beyond my skill level and the time required to make them doesn't seem reasonable. I had some in the late 80s that adapted bearing size to fit some Tamiya wheels on a Kyosho. Miss those days in Japan. I could get things that you never see in the states.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Traxxas/430/2769/10002/-1

Some clear Teflon tubing might work for a while. Looking into that with other types of air line and such in mind.

I will stick with the HD cups, Tekno driveshafts and dual bearings for now. I wont stop looking though. Thanks for the ideas.

Last edited by Thunder Trail; 04-29-2016 at 12:29 PM.
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Old 04-29-2016, 08:27 PM   #9055
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If concerned about the weight of the brass collar, you could lighten it by removing metal in certain areas just like the outdrives are lightened up. The bearings are what? 4MM wide? Better yet, make the sleeve only 4MM wide and in exactly the place on the outdrive that matches the location of the bearing. I did a rough calc and came up with about 1.3 grams for such a sleeve. If you were careful, it should not take much solder at all. 0.25g? So 1.6g total.
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Old 04-30-2016, 10:49 PM   #9056
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That would work, but keeping it in place might be more difficult if kept narrow. Might stay in place better if wide enough to fit between ridges on cup and the diff case.
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Old 05-01-2016, 03:23 PM   #9057
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That would work, but keeping it in place might be more difficult if kept narrow. Might stay in place better if wide enough to fit between ridges on cup and the diff case.
It won't move if it is soldered to the outdrive.

Thinking about this a little more I realized one could solder a short piece of oversize brass tubing to the outdrive and chuck it in a lathe (holding it by the part that goes into the the diff cup) and turn the brass down to fit the bearing.

Or maybe CA a piece of delrin tube to the outdrive and turn that on the lathe. You could even leave a slight ridge on the delrin to keep it in place if the glue failed.
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Old 05-01-2016, 11:41 PM   #9058
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Maybe the new SCTE Pro Ten truck will be out shortly with less drive angle so I won't have to worry about it.

I truly appreciate all the work on updated parts and such for this truck. Has helped keep it competitive for sure. Outstanding support from Ryan and Horizon are also great. However, seems like we have waited a while for noticeable design changes while the E-buggy updates keep flying out the door.

Hope we get a new rig soon.
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Old 05-02-2016, 08:21 AM   #9059
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TLR has released quite a few parts for the 2.0 making it better. No reason to believe a 3.0 will be on the horizon but no telling when for us.
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Old 05-02-2016, 09:13 AM   #9060
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I agree, but why do the buggies keep getting revised with new model or version numbers and the truck stays the same? Seems like the available upgrades for the truck are no less significant than the few changes we see on 1/8 buggies.

I know others are wondering the same thing?
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