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Old 03-20-2016, 12:53 PM   #9001
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Round ones...

.... sorry couldn't resist
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Old 03-20-2016, 02:46 PM   #9002
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What tires/compounds are you guys running on outdoor loose tracks.
Cityblocks or calibers. You could try gladiators or badlands as well if it is really loose.
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Old 03-20-2016, 02:51 PM   #9003
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What tires/compounds are you guys running on outdoor loose tracks.
Depends on how loose the track is. Could be M3/M4 holeshots to a S/SS Panther Raptor or M3/M4 blockade.
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Old 03-20-2016, 07:30 PM   #9004
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I've been holding off from buying a bunch of "upgrades" for a while, I hope there is a new scte coming soon. I really like the 4wd sct class.
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Old 03-22-2016, 07:26 AM   #9005
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My go-to tire for SC 4X4 outdoors is AKA Enduro or City Block. If the track is in good shape and moist I'll go to Proline Sniper or Gridirons (the first version, not the Gridiron-II which is way different and much smaller pins).

In SC 2WD I can get away with super-soft/ M4 but in 4x4 I stay in the Soft/ M3 compound instead of super-soft/ M4 to save a bit of $$ (better tire life).
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Old 03-22-2016, 09:43 AM   #9006
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what run times do you see ? i know it varrys alot but im new to this , from what i heard is the 4700hw is harsh on batteries
Easy 10 min. Never really run a race much longer that that.

After a typical 5 min race and warm up I typically dump 3000-3500 out of the battery in that time. For reference a 2wd car for same races in mod are only about 1800mah so yes these rigs are hard on batteries so having something up to the task is important. Venom batteries have been amazing for me in taking this abuse.
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Old 03-22-2016, 10:49 AM   #9007
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Hey Casper, what chassis is used on the latest Dunford setup on your site? If it's the -3mm, any changes that you would recommend for a standard chassis running the 22 shocks?
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Old 03-22-2016, 11:17 AM   #9008
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We have been running the -3 chassis for quite a while. We do like the STD chassis on extreme high bite or possibly a larger 8th scale style track but it is a tuning option.

Nothing I would really change to compensate for one over the other. The -3 rotates better on a typical 10th scale track with better exit corner traction however the longer chassis does allow the car to flow a little better on an open layout. I basically run the -3 everywhere though. I don't run on large 8th scale tracks but once a year maybe and for high bite stuff I just lower the truck take out some droop and stiffen up the shocks.
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Old 03-22-2016, 07:17 PM   #9009
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We have been running the -3 chassis for quite a while. We do like the STD chassis on extreme high bite or possibly a larger 8th scale style track but it is a tuning option.

Nothing I would really change to compensate for one over the other. The -3 rotates better on a typical 10th scale track with better exit corner traction however the longer chassis does allow the car to flow a little better on an open layout. I basically run the -3 everywhere though. I don't run on large 8th scale tracks but once a year maybe and for high bite stuff I just lower the truck take out some droop and stiffen up the shocks.
Most setups I've seen, including the one I'm running, have the rear hubs all the way back. Wouldn't a standard chassis with the rear hubs moved forward 3mm rotate similar to the shorter chassis?
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Old 03-23-2016, 07:43 AM   #9010
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Most setups I've seen, including the one I'm running, have the rear hubs all the way back. Wouldn't a standard chassis with the rear hubs moved forward 3mm rotate similar to the shorter chassis?
No, you'd be changing the rear bone angle by a LOT.
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Old 03-23-2016, 08:10 AM   #9011
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You are also moving the entire rear clip forward 3mm an not just changing the wheel base. The polar moment of inertia is smaller with a shorter chassis.
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Last edited by Casper; 03-23-2016 at 10:58 AM.
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Old 03-23-2016, 09:20 AM   #9012
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No, you'd be changing the rear bone angle by a LOT.
Just for my understanding, what effect does bone angle have on handling? I've never seen it referenced in tuning guides, only the wheelbase adjustment. Thanks for your help Frank & Casper - much appreciated.
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Old 03-23-2016, 09:55 AM   #9013
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Just for my understanding, what effect does bone angle have on handling? I've never seen it referenced in tuning guides, only the wheelbase adjustment. Thanks for your help Frank & Casper - much appreciated.
There is friction created in a CV joint, and also friction created at the bone/outdrive joints. Both frictional forces increase the further the bone is from being perfectly straight. If other words, when you accelerate, the bone wants to pull itself straight, and applies force to the suspension in an attempt to do so. More bone angle by moving the hubs forward = more force.

With the drive shaft straighter (hubs back), it reduces the lock-up force of the driveshaft and allows weight to transfer to the rear more easily under acceleration.
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Old 03-23-2016, 07:54 PM   #9014
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What ESC's and Motors is everyone running?
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Old 03-24-2016, 06:23 AM   #9015
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What ESC's and Motors is everyone running?


MN series ?


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